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racerdave

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Posts posted by racerdave

  1. http://www.aibaworks.co.jp/roofrack.htm

     

    Know any good JDM importers?

     

    Sure do :-) I use to be one until I sold my business.

     

    There are no rails, they clamp to the rain gutters under your doors, and have feet that rest on the edge of the roof to distribute the weight.

     

    Ok, and if I wanted to install a basket onto the rack, how would I go about doing that?

     

    I want to get something that has a wind deflector.

  2. I have a newer motor with less miles, I plan on taking my current motor out and putting in the newer one.

     

     

    I would like to know what the easiest way of doing this is.

     

    I am doing this by myself in my garage with a normal engine lift.

     

    I have tried to remove a few of the bellhousing bolts and its a huge pain in the ass, and im thinking about how I am going to have to line this all up on my own and put it all back together, I just dont think its going to happen.

     

    I have replaced engines before and I always pull the engine/tranny together as 1 unit and then set them on the ground, swap the tranny, and stick it back in.

     

    Just looking for advice.

  3. I need to know what is the best route..

     

    Should I just pull the engine/tranny together, or pull the engine out and then the tranny?

    And when I install it, put the tranny on the engine before I put it back in?

     

    the link to the other thread is not getting much attention..

  4. So I have my manuals out and I have been reading.

     

    I picked up a newer 95 VG30E (111k miles) to replace my 92 that has 330k miles on it.

     

    It is a 92 XE auto 4x4.

     

    I know lots of people on here have replaced the engine, I was just wondering if there is anything that makes this easier?

    Its straight forward in the book, but I find when I follow the book, there were always quicker/easier ways to do things...

     

    I have about a week to do the swap, its not my main source of transportation so thats not a big deal.

     

    Any helpful advice?

     

    The book tells me to drop the front diff, unbolt the tranny, and take the engine out.

     

    Well, not just that, but in that fashion. I am a little worried my engine hoist is not going to be able to pick it that high....

     

    Can I take off the wheels and set the front on jack stands so the pathy sits a little lower?

     

    Also, can anyone direct me to a good place to buy a set of headers, I want to do that while the motor is out.

  5. If you go with a bend at the top of the a-pillar, I would put a wire from the top of the opening, down to the pipe going up the a-pillar, so branches will run up the wire and over the top of the snorkel bend, to prevent damage to the curved part at the top and to prevent branches and such from catching on it.

     

    Good idea..

  6. Your best bet is to come out of the fender.

     

    Fiberglass is kind of iffy, as it can crack and leak.

     

    When designing it, you want the inside to be as smooth, and have the least ammount of bends possible.

     

    First off, you will want to remove the tube that goes from the air box, across the front of the truck towards the passenger side.

     

    Next u want to cap off that hole in the airbox where you removed the tube.

     

    I found Epoxy and a few small bolts work great (make sure u put the nuts on the outside, incease one comes loose. I tightend mine down, and coverd them in epoxy so they will never come off.

     

    A lot of people use PVC pipe (you have to keep in mind that UV rays destroy plastic after time) so get something that is going to hold up to the weather.

     

    That should get you brainstorming.

     

    Let me know if you have any more questions.

     

    Also, there are a lot of people on here that have made there own. So just keep asking.

  7. Is that safe to do though? I don't want to risk damaging my transmission :(

    Plus, when I do this, I plan to bypass the stock cooler and add a new one.

     

    Not sure about how safe that is, but as for you putting in a Aftermarket cooler, good job!!!

     

    That is my next investment.

     

    Oh and here is a FSM for your rig in PDF format.

     

    94 Pathfinder (yours is the same)

  8. No, the most the VG30E in the PF/HBs got was 153hp and 180lb/ft. The Z31 300ZX non-turbos (VG30E) started out at 165hp and 174 lb/ft of torque. They got 5 more HP in 1987. The Z32 got the DE, and it *started* at 222hp.

     

    Um, didn't you claim you were importing JDM and other engines at one point? Why don't you know this? :D

     

    I am new to the Nissan World. Importing is how I started.

     

    I was a Subaru/Toyota/Honda guy.

     

    I bought my first S13 one year ago, been in Nissan love ever since :-)

  9. The stats above are a bit off. Should be 154 HP and 180 ft-lbs for the VG30E in the Pathy and HB truck. The 300Z's that got the VG30E may have had it tweaked to those numbers for better car performance, but the trucks/SUV got the lower-powered version from 90-95 as far as I know.

     

    You mean the 300z's that got the VG30*D*E ?

  10. Thanks for the info!

     

    Like I said, it was free...

     

    It looks like im just going to make some $ off of it by selling it :-)

     

    Maybe pay for a set of headers and full exhaust for my pathy :-)

     

    I agree with a Low RPM tq curve for a off road'er.

  11. I just picked up a free VG30DE. Im not sure what I want to do with it.

     

    It has low miles and nothing is wrong with it.

     

    The guy swapped it out for a VG30DETT, so....

     

    Is it a simple swap into my pathfinder?

     

    I dont know anything about the VG and this is my first Pathfinder...

     

    Any help would be great :-)

     

    I like the numbers when u compare them to the VG30E...

     

    VG30DE

    Horsepower (SAE)

    222 BHP @6,400 RPM

     

    Torque

    198 FT-Lbs @4,800 RPM

     

    VG30E

    Horsepower (SAE)

    165 @ 5200

     

    Torque

    174 FT-Lbs @4,000 RPM

  12. Check all suspected connectors, wires and ground points thoroughly. I think, this picture may be helpful. "Ignition signal" circuit marked red.

     

    dude, u rock!

     

    This forum kicks @ss

     

    Thank you!

  13. Sorry my poor English...

    "Ignition signal" is a feedback from primary ignition coil to ECCS module. If it is missed, it can be malfunction in:

    - wire harness and connectors (most likely, if your engine can start);

    - resistor or condenser in primary coil circuit;

    - power transistor module;

    - ignition coil itself.

    It isn't distributor or CAS malfunction.

     

    Yay, because a new distributor is like $$$

     

    Thanks for the info, I am going out right now to check resistance and such.

     

    I will post the results tonight :-)

     

    thanks again.

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