racerdave
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Posts posted by racerdave
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17mpg is not bad for these gas pigs, unfortunately... There are some exceptions depending on year, condition, driving, but as an average, that's about what to expect.
LOL about the LSD. In my manual, I had to be careful in the rain, turning in 1-2 gear, lest I just pivot. With my new automagic it doesn't seem to be as touchy, but winter has just started so I'll have a better understanding in a few months. My guess is that the auto tranny drive train has more lag/less snap to it. At least, that's how it feels...
A new caliper for $40?? That seems remarkably cheap. Where did you get it?
I'm glad you got the trouble sorted out easily and cheaply.
B
I can live with 17mpg. I have not been easy on it either, just driving to work and back, only twice on the interstate. I hope to get 20mpg out of it on the highway, its just a winter vehicle and camping machine.
Yeah I had to get on it around the corner so it kicked down and locked up, countersteered and pushed right through the corner in the wet, much better then the open diff.
I got it at NAPA, I think I might have gotten a one time good deal... Not 100% sure how it worked, but they charged me 40$ plus tax for the caliper and 80$ for the core!
So leaving NAPA I paid them 120$ plus tax (cant remember exactly), and when I came back, I got 94$ back for my old caliper core.
I was a happy camper.
Just got some Satisfied Metalazer rear brake pads in the mail today (10$ plus shipping) originally 60$ pads...! I seem to be finding the deals lately :-)
Slowly getting together everything to do all the brakes, new pads/rotors.
I was going to go with Brembo rotors, I figure before I do, if anyone knows a better brand?
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Ever since I replaced the fuel filter it seems to be running fine...
Strange... Maybe it was bad gas?
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Well to update.... Since the weather has been colder it runs fine...
Very strange. Even after I shut it off and start it up (when its still warm) it runs fine.
I have had it miss after just starting up and its still cold, just a random miss every 5 seconds or so under idle only.
After I drive it it goes away.
I put my stereo in it, and.... well, I am still trying to figure out the whole factory amp thing... its kind of retarded...
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Ok, it's not the slide pins...
The hollow of the piston means nothing. The mating surfaces do. Is there rust/corrosion on the OD of the piston where it meets the caliper? That could hang it up... One long shot that I have heard of, your brake flex lines could be compromised. If one 'balloons' under the pressure of braking, it may still keep vestige pressure on the piston when the petal is released. PSI in the line equates to much more force on the piston.
Try bleeding them again?
If you do have to disassemble/reassemble the caliper, remember to refrigerate the piston. The difference in thermal expansion can make it much easier to install.
I was doing this with a tranny bearing set today. Bake at 250 degrees for 5 minutes...
As for the save it for later, yeah, I agree, but I still have so much work lined up, I'll be wrenching into next year!!
B
I went to the parts store and bought a brand new caliper for 40$, the caliper I had was done, the inside was all gross when I took it apart, the fluid had dirt in it and it was like sludge.
I replaced it and its great now!
I pulled the ABS light bulb out so its not so annoying at night :-)
She is running great. Im getting about 17mpg. Is that good for a motor with 111k on it?
Im not being easy on it, it rained yesterday and took it on the onramp to the freeway to see how well the stock LSD works. Locked up nice, good stability around a corner :-)
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Slide pins, just like the front calipers? There is a write up on it somewhere, but basically you remove the dust boots and the slide pins. clean them well and sand/polish them smooth if there is any rust and corrosion. Do the same to the hole they slide in. Lube vigorously and reassemble. This is where I would start (fixes things 75% of the time) unless you are certain you have a sticking piston.
If so, there must be a rebuild kit available, calipers are quite simple. Do you have rust/corrosion on the piston?
B
When I took off the caliper, the slide pins looked great, all lubed up and came off and went back on with no issues.
The piston was packed full of mud and is rusty on the inside...
I am going to go search for a rebuild kit and see what I can do.
Thanks for all the advice thus far... Im getting tired of working on it so I told myself I would relax this weekend and save it for Monday.
Will post up results as soon as I get to tearing it apart :-)
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Well after taking apart the rear break that was sticking and adjusting the e-brake (I couldnt even budge the rotor to take it off the Ebrake was so tight) I cleaned everything and put it all back together and the caliper seems to be sticking still...
Anyone have this issue? Do the rear calipers have issues I should know about? What is the easiest way to fix my problem, buy a new caliper or rebuild kit?
Or is there a way to break free the sticky caliper so it works again? I am going to try pushing the piston in all the way, and then put it back together and see if it sticks still.
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Cool, thanks for letting me know what it does.
I can live without ABS, I just have to unplug the light in my dash so its not so annoying...
I think whenever I take the rear end out again I will just swap the covers, or just pick up another rear with LSD and ABS... They are not very expensive anyhow..
When I looked at the brakes today I found that it wasnt the caliper that was dragging, it was the ebrake shoes, my drivers side was almost locked up!
Made it nice and hot on the drive home from work today...
Anyway, I took it all apart and cleaned it up with brake cleaner, lots of mud and dust in there.
Going to assemble everything tomorrow and see if it solves my problem.
If so, I will have a good running daily driver! At least for now... :-)
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I have a 91, XE, 4 wheel drive, automatic, no power options, AC, and ABS.
Bought a 95 front and rear diff with LSD, disk brakes, and 4.6 gears.
The brake master that I had was leaking, so I bought a new one, and I got the one for 4 wheel disk brakes since I was upgrading to rear disk brakes. NON ABS ( I didn’t think I had ABS).
When I was removing the rear end, I noticed a sensor in the input shaft of the differential :-\
Installed the new rear end and it doesn’t have the provision for that sensor.
I installed the new master cylinder and bled the brakes, took it for a test drive.
The ABS light came on (I didn’t know I had ABS until then), I tested out the brakes, 25mph sudden stop, 60mph sudden stop, and 45mph made sure they all lock up if I slam on the brakes.
Everything works fine except the rear disks are dragging a little (muddy and a little rusty), so im going to take them apart and clean/grease them today to see if they are just sticking. The rotors and pads will be replaced soon.
What is the difference between a ABS and non ABS master cylinder?
What does the sensor in the rear end do? (also what is it called?)
Do I need to swap input shaft covers in order to retain that sensor?
What is the easiest way to deal with all this?
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Well after checking things out, the temp sensor is fine. I checked the ECU and did Modes 1-2 and 3. Mode 1 had no issues. I believe it was mode 2 (mixture) was fine, and Mode 3 tells you if sensors are bad or malfunctioning (this is where it would tell me if my temp sensor was not working).
Well the code it gave me was 12 (Mass airflow sensor).
Im thinking that would be a good reason for it dumping fuel and missing randomly.
Is there a way to test the MAF before I replace it?
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did you unplug the sensor and try it without yet? It's an easy test to cancel out the possiblilty of the 02 sensor screwing up the truck. I would check that before i go spending 75 bucks on a new sensor only to find out that's not what was wrong with it.
75$?! I bought one for 35$, and it came with a new plug and everything... Im going to replace it this weekend and see if it helps anything.
The revving problem is the same thing mine had when the coolant temp sensor went out... hit the gas, and the ECU would dump a ton of gas into it and flood it out, so it sputters and what not. It was also intermittent like that, cut power to it and it worked fine the next time I drove the truck.Actually, what yours is doing is EXACTLY what mine was doing just before the sensor totally took a crap on the way to school a week later.
Just a thought.
But the sensor is from the new motor, same problem, different sensor?
I will have to try to unplug the sensor and see if it makes a difference in how it runs.
Thanks for all the tips, ill post up some results after the weekend when I get a chance to work on it.
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Well its not the MAF sensor, it did it again today, and I played with it, nothing changed.
I drove it 20 miles, let it sit for 10min, and went to pull it in the shop and it ran like crap, randomly missing and sputtering.
After limping it in the shop I unloaded the rear end I plan on installing soon, and let it sit for about an hour. It cooled off, I started it up to go home, and it ran fine all the way home.
Im going to buy a new oxygen sensor tomorrow and install it over the weekend, along with a new brake master cyl, and 4.6 rear end with disk brakes..
If I cant narrow down the issue by replacing common parts I am going to take it in and get it diagnosed.
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When it does it again, pop the hood and wiggle the mass air flow sensor wiring. A few members here have had that problem. It caused erratic Idle and it would stumble up to 4k and thats it, for me.
I will try that again.
I tried that when the old motor was doing this, and it didnt fix the problem.
If the MAF sensor is broken, it will not work, correct?
Or can it be broken and work off and on?
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I don't know why it caused it, but all I know is, it was revving between one and 2 thousand and wouldn't rev up high. As soon as I popped it back into place it ran fine again. Wierd...
It is not a limitation in RPM. It is randomly missing so bad that it wont go past 4k under WOT.
The throttle cables are fine, nothing wrong there.
It idles fine at 750RPM, and drops to about 700RPM when at idle when it misses.
Under any throttle, it jumps all over the place...
I have not checked the codes yet, I will try to unplug the O2 sensor, and see if thats the issue.
I am not getting a CEL yet.
I started it up again today, and drove it around the block, it ran fine...
Its mind boggling... I have never had this problem with a vehicle that I could not diagnose.
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Just in case, make sure you didn't jar the throttle cable that's for the cruise. When a shop fixed my dads wiper sheer pin on his r50, they pulled the throttle cable slightly and it would do the same thing...I pulled emissons sys & cabon canister pulled for more working room when I went to my bigger coil (yeh its that big, 55,000v) when I put it back it acted the same way; 1 vaccum line was leaking and the other 2 were mixed up. double checked my vaccum lines, replaced 1 corrected the other 2 and all went to normal.
I will check the throttle cable. But I dont see what that has to do with my problem? Can you explain why this would cause that problem?
As far as vacuum lines, the new motor is having the same issue the old one had.
I checked the lines on the new motor before I put it in, so that makes me think its nothing on the motor that is giving me trouble but something else.
Any more ideas on what it could be?
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I have a 91 XE with 300k on the body and 111k on the newer 95 motor.
The old motor was drinking oil, powerless and leaking.
I also had an issue which I thought was ignition until today.
I have been driving it with the new motor for about 3 days now, and after I got home from work (10min drive) I wanted to check the tranny fluid and oil to make sure all was well.
After adding a little tranny fluid, I started it up, and it goes to 2k RPM and sputters between 2k and 1k, if I give it any throttle, it sputters and it wont rev over 4k under wide open throttle.
I had the same issue with the stock motor.
Exhaust is all stock, im starting to think my CAT is plugged up, and when it gets hot it becomes restrictive? Can that happen?
Something is wrong, I cant figure it out.
The newer motor came with coil, distributor, and engine harness.
Could it be my ECU?
Any ideas on what to check would be great. Thanks.
We dont have emissions here, so I was going to just replace it with a high flow resonator.
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thank you :-)
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I wanted to know if I can drive my 91 pathfinder to my buddy shop to install my rear gear set.
I need to use his shop, and I want to just load up the 4.6 rear end I have, and take it over to his shop, I already changed out the front from 4.3 to 4.6.
Its going to stay in 2wd, and I wont be using the 4wd until I get the new rear end in, I just want to make sure its safe before I drive it down the street.
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Is the 4.6 better than the 4.3? Am I going to notice a difference in TQ and is my speedometer going to be off?
I plan on getting some 31x10's on 15" wheels for my only off road upgrade.
I am going to be driving this to work daily after I get her up and running.
The brake question has been solved. This is now my question ^^
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anyone?
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They told me it could not be done, even after I did it (swap engines without removing tranny)
That is one of two stock ratios (4.3 and 4.6)
Make sure the front and rear diffs have the SAME ratio!
Seems to be a bit up in the air on simply swapping brake setups, some say it works other say it does not. I plan on this same swap, and am going to try it without changing anything else. If it does not work then I will replace the brake master cylinder with one meant for disk brakes (Disk and Drum MC's have different part numbers)
I have to replace the brake master cyl. anyway so I called around today and I am just going to buy the master for disk brakes.
I was told by a few different people that the proportioning valve on the disk brake master is different than the drum brake master.
Since it needs to be replaced anyway, I am just going with the disk brake one.
I bought the front and rear diff together, guy upgraded and just wanted to get rid of them.
Just so happens it had disk brakes :-)
Is the 4.6 better than the 4.3? Am I going to notice a difference in TQ and is my speedometer going to be off?
I plan on getting some 31x10's on 15" wheels for my only off road upgrade.
I am going to be driving this to work daily after I get her up and running.
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So, after a long weekend of neck cramps, smashed fingers, hand cramps, and 2 broken wrenches.
I replaced the motor in my pathfinder with a lower mileage one. Without removing the transmission! Yaay :-)
Still have to hook up the cooling system and plug everything back in, but thats the easy part.
It went from almost 400k miles to 111k.
This week, I will be installing a front and rear diff. I picked up for 100$ local.
The guy says it is LSD, and has 4.63 gears, is that a stock gear ratio?
Also, the rear end has disk brakes instead of drums.
Can I just swap the new rear end in, and hook up the disk brakes without modification?
So far, I have 1k $ into it. Paid 200$ for it, bought a motor for 500$, F&R LSD 100$, and about 200$ in misc. parts.
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Mine had 400k on the original motor, gutless wonder, taken to Nissan every 3 months for maintenance and oil changes.
I am the second owner, I just pulled out the motor and put in a newer 95 with 111k on it.
Along with a (new to me) front and rear LSD, 4.63 gears, and upgraded the drums to disks :-)
New brake master cyl. and I will be daily driving her!
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Well then, I'm glad you're here...
Is there any way to get one of these Noselda racks w/o having to pay over $900 usd?
That's the conversion on the sale price at Shuei anyhow...
I wish I read more Japanese
They've got all kinds of cool parts for the WD.
I can look into it, but I bet its going to cost you a bit.
Thanks for the info on the types of racks, baskets, and mounting. It answered my questions.
I just hope the thread starter got the info they needed as well.
Distributor bad?
in The Garage
Posted
I duno,, After I took the filter out, I blew through it and it seemd to flow fine..
I am thinking maybe I had water in the fuel.