vanuatoo

I've owned the car so many years, but I only use 2 and 1 when using low range, which means I stop the car and only after that switch. Is it safe to switch from D to 2 and 2 to 1 or 1 to 2 while the car is moving? In both high and low range?

After that incident, I looked at the fusebox under the hood and wiggled NP Relay, wanted to take out, but it's fighting me, did not force. I pressed on relay just to make sure it's seated properly. I have not done anything else. Car started 4 times after that on the first try, without any problem. Really confused what it could be.

Today it failed to start multiple times. With the hood closed I hear that when you try to crank, one loud click is heard from underneath the engine but it does not start. I tried one trick after 20 times of starting it, don't know if it's coincidence or not. I slightly moved the shift lever from P towards R and then when I cranked it started immediately. Could it be again any of: Ignition switch, neutral safety switch or starter? Or we can eliminate some from the list?

I need to check precisely, but from what I remember, there is no sound sometimes. I don't know if it's related or not but I have another problem, not sure if it's related. It's also intermittent, sometimes my radio does not turn on. But if I pull the 15 amp fuse from the box under the steering column and put it back, then it turns on. Can faulty ignition switch cause this? I checked the fuse, it's fine. I even switched it from the spare. It's 6 CD changer Bose Audio.

Thanks for the response. At what mileage your starter died? Is there a way to diagnose whether it's starter or ignition switch?

I have around 130,000 miles on my 2003 A/T 4WD SE. It started around 6 months ago, I don't drive it regularly, but sometimes I turn the key and it does not start. If I turn off and then try again, it starts. I don't have Check Engine light on. I searched and it could be Ignition Switch. I'm eager to replace it, I guess it's not a big deal but only thing that worries me is if I need to reprogram key after that. Open to other suggestions as well.

Bringing up old thread. There is a Nissan dealer with Nissan Consult diagnostics tool. Is it worth to pay the money and use it for extracting the code which was set (if it's still there) during transmission going into limp mode?

Nothing on the filter in the manual

I drove from work to my home around 7 miles, it took 21 minutes. Stop and go traffic + some light highway. Checked the level as indicated in the instructions. On the HOT side it's within the dashed zone, slightly above minimum (about fifth of the whole zone). So level is OK. I remember when I was investigating this problem, I encountered one post, when a person was talking about some clogged small filter. Don't remember where it was located and can't find that post as well.

I don't have any codes. I have OBD reader, but it's pretty basic and can't read AT codes. Engine temp is fine, at least the gauge says so. I have a custom shield underneath the engine, but it's been there for years. The only case when transmission went into limp mode, was in around 13 years ago, when I tried to quick launch from the stop light in summer. As an option, I can visit the dealer and read AT codes, through Consult tool, if it makes sense and try to go from there.

2003 4wd SE with 4 speed auto Car runs great, has about 132,000 miles. This symptom developed about 10,000 miles ago. Only in summer, when I'm on highway and it's very hot, usually with air conditioner on, car goes into limp mode, after driving around 60 miles. The car continues to drive but it's in the 2nd or 3rd gear I guess. Then I stop it, shut off. Wait around 2-5 minutes. Turn on and car drives normally. Tranny has been serviced at 30,000 mile intervals, only putting Nissan Matic D, with drain and refill approach. Transmission filter has never been changed, as service manager told me it's just a metal screen and no maintenance is needed, just fluid change. Engine valve covers are leaking badly, don't know if this can cause this problem. Rear main seal also has some seepage, but nothing significant. Any ideas?

Hello, The recommendation is 80w-90 API GL-5. On the rear I have normal (non LSD). Have used in the past Mobil HD Plus 80w-90 Have anyone used Amsoil one? https://www.amsoil.com/p/severe-gear-80w-90-agl/

Unfortunately I don't live in USA and there is no auto parts store from which I can borrow the tools. https://www.amazon.com/BTSHUB-Oxygen-Replace-Sensors-Universal/dp/B08G8R347J/ref=sr_1_5?crid=9ZINRG4E2NFW&keywords=oxygen+sensor+socket+1%2F2+drive&qid=1668760889&s=automotive&sprefix=oxygen+sensor+socket+1%2Cautomotive%2C305&sr=1-5 Will this kit be ok for all sensors?

Do I understand right that B2 is the driver side?

I need to replace Bank 2 Sensor 1. Which o2 socket would you recommend? There are many choices on Amazon.