Tincan4X4
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Posts posted by Tincan4X4
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Is there anything out there that will allow for mounting the spare on the roof without the use of a rack? I have found some things that "might" work, but just want to see if there is anything I missed.
If I cant find anything I will just cut the spare mount off the rear swing rack, modify it and bolt it to the roof.
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Update-
Removed rear sway bar completely, barely noticed any difference in roll.
The plastic ring thing inside the shiftboot is what was not allowing me into 4L.
Thanks to everyone for the help. Pics of my weekend can be found in the pics/videos forum.
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Yeah....but that's what's supposed to happen. If in 4HI, or 4LO, the indicator light should stay on regardless of direction.
If you had shifted into 2WD, and the light stayed on, that's when reversing should have kicked the light off.
Chances are your hubs are fine. Just get that shifter issue fixed, and then test..... Sounds to me like it's your only issue.
Ahh, Ok. I guess this whole thing just got me a bit paranoid.
So how do you test that the hubs did in fact lock? Once I know this I should be pretty squared away on this.
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NOW you're talking!
That's most likely what happened.
Easy fix. Either
A) Get a HB shifter
Take yours out and bend itC) Notch the floor so that the shifter will slide back into 4 lo. You may have to notch 2" or more back from the shifter. This is what I did. Still have to make a new boot to cover the now larger hole.
Yep.
Now I have to figure out if my auto hubs are working correctly.
When I had it in 4H, the dash indicator was on, assuming this means the hubs are locked, I reversed it for 10-15Ft, yet the light stayed on. So my hubs are not disengaging. This is under the assumption that the light means hubs locked.
Would this be correct?
Thanks for all the help Simon.
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NO...wrong....
The position BEFORE you have to push down is 4HI. Push down, pull back 1 position, that's neutral. Push down, pull back 2 positions, that's 4LO.
The "1 position forward" is 2wd. Your transfer case is fine.
Ok so if thats how it shifts then I have been in 2H since I bought it. And I cannot shift into 4L(I push down and can only go back 1 position).
Which means that when the owners before me did the 3" body lift, they probably didnt make the necessary changes to the shifter to allow a shift into 4L.
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I got nothing. I pulled the shifter all the way back to the position just before having to push down to go into 4L. This should be Nuetral. The dash indicator is lit up at this position. So i reversed for 10-15Ft. Light stays on.
Next I shifted 1 position forward(should be 4H) the dash light is out at this postion, so I move forward 10-15Ft and the light stays out and I cannot feel any difference in driving.
Next I try to go into 2H, no go, shifter will not go any further forward.
so I try 4L, which does exactly the same thing as 4H.
Do I have a jacked up TC? This would truly suck.
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Look good, just ordered a couple of the reflective white.
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Ill play around with it at lunch. Thanks for the help everyone.
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The light goes out.....it's most likely in Neutral. you were in 4Hi if you pushed down and were able to pull back another notch. Pushing down, and pulling back 1 more, should get you into 4L.
Now....once you've been in 4HI, sometimes you have to put it back in 2wd, and then back up a few feet to get the auto hubs to release. At which point, the light should go out.
So you think I could be in 2H position right now and not in nuetral?
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There is no 2L. Make sure your tranny is in neutral, and push down on the shifter to pop it back into 4HI, then forward again (no push down) to get it into 2wd.
Shift pattern on the TC shifter-
2h(no 2L, like you said
)4h
N
4L
I can only pull it back to 4L. I push down and forward and it wont move(from N).
Edit: I just went and tried it again. I can pull it down one position from what I beleive is N, and the dash lights up. I can push down and pull back another notch but the light goes out.
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Well, looks like I may not be going after all. Cannot shift into 2L or 4HI, all I can do is shift into 4low.
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Gonna go do some light trails with my son this weekend. It will be the first time out with the pathfinder. Should I leave the swaybars attached or disconnect? Or leave the front on and disconnect the rear? Or completely remove the front cause its useless and disconnect the rear? :coffee!:
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Nope...that's about it for our steering upgrades. hoohaa's is exactly like L&P in terms of design. Though, he only does the CL. No gussetted pitman or idler arms. Though, I have since seen a couple of instances where the gussetting on those arms caused CL failure. But that's a long story.....
I'm running hoohaa's centerlink, with stock Idler and pitman arms, and a simple idler arm brace. I've had no issues with it, and have done quite a bit of wheeling.
Calmini's kit is a nice one....totally different design....and fully rebuildable. Though, the issue is, from what I've seen on Xterra's, at least, it needs rebuilding quite often.
Thanks, is there a website for Hoohaa? Ill check it out.
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My SE had them, but I took them off. I think it looks better without them.
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Dunno if its normal or not, but mine does the same thing. Are you sure it's not the CL? It's really common and you wouldn't be able to "see" a problem with it. I wasted a brand new one on the first mild trail I drove down after I put it on. The TRE holes get egged out a little and poof, roached CL. L&P doesn't exist anymore, but Hooha is taking limited orders on modified CL's and there's always $Calmini$. Anyway if you get a new CL and it doesn't fix your problems I'll owe you a beer.
L&P doesnt exhist anymore? Bummer, I was looking at their site yesterday. I was looking to get the stage 3 kit.
Other than hooha and Calmini, are there any other companies I can look for for beefier steering components?
Thanks for the info, Id rather it be the CL than the gearbox.
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I have a decent amount of play in the steering. Bushings and tie rods look ok. Cant see that any of the arms are bent nor any prob with the CL.
I grabbed the steering column shaft at the gearbox and I am able to rotate the shaft about a 1/8-1/4"(rough estimate) before it will engage and start to turn.
Is this normal or do I need a new gearbox?
Thanks.
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Nope. Not too many available aftermarket. A few folks have built custom bumpers here, as I will be doing this winter. Search for Trailchaser's Member's rig post, and you'll see his. A nicely crafted one, that I'll be mimicing to some extent, with a couple of changes.
I like this-
http://www.warn.com/truck/mounting-systems...bumper_jk.shtml
Gonna talk to one of my buddies and see how difficult he thinks it would be to attach it to my PF.
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Thanks for the welcome.
Anyone got sites that I can look at for rear bumpers?
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My 90 SE has close to 207,000.
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Just purchased my first Nissan last week.
1990 Pathfinder SE. V6 5spd 4wd, what more could you want?
My last 4WD was a Suzuki Samarai and that was 11 years ago, cant wait to get back out in the dirt.
Well heres a few pics-
It has a 3" body lift and 31" tires. It has a few issues, steering has a lot of play, I think the motor mounts need to be replaced, other than that its pretty solid.
Cant really complian since I only paid 500.00 for it.
Roof mounted spare
in 90-95 WD21 Pathfinders
Posted
Well it would have been more complicated than simply bolting the carrier and tire directly to the roof. I knew Id have to spread the load(I did have ideas for this) and I was hoping that the roof was pretty strong to begin with, but I guess thats not the case. Looks like I will need to run some sort of rack.
Hey 88, just noticed you are from Salem. I have family there. I havnt been up to Oregon in years.