Aonghus

I wondered the same thing and thought we might as well try it.

Really? Good enough grip for the synchros? Any thoughts about using that in an older transmission? That makes me wonder about the Synchromesh then, pretty sure that is in a similar viscosity range as ATF...

Oh, one issue I forgot to list: Speedometer - this one is very very slow to react, it's more of an approxometer than an actual speedometer. We haven't dug into this yet but I'd thought to maybe pull the gauge cluster and drip some lubricant down the cable, a silicone spray or a special cable lubricant if such a thing exists. Wonder what the slipperiest thing would be to try? The needle is bent too. Thought I saw another thread where it's possible to swap the gauge cluster and set the odometer for the correct mileage. Might go that route I guess.

Thanks Slart! This is excellent and narrows down my searching tremendously. I will keep checking into this stuff.

Sure thing, hope it helps. If you have a minute and the weather is cooperating with you, the bleeder nipple on the slave cylinder is pretty easy to get to. Pop the lid off the master cylinder, crack the bleeder and let some fluid drain out. Have someone watch the master cylinder reservoir so you don't let it all out and suck air in! Then top it off again and see if it helps. That was seriously the fix for us.

TLDR - try gravity bleeding at the slave cylinder. So we had similar symptoms. Recently replaced the clutch and all the goodies on my son's 93XE. Here's the two scenarios we experienced. The old clutch was decidedly bad, easily slipped when trying to accelerate or pull a hill. We didn't drive it much in this condition but when it was cold in the morning it would have some decent grip. Replaced the clutch, put everything back together, no grab, couldn't even back out of the shop. But it was 2am by then so we came back to it the next weekend. My buddy had a hunch that the hydraulics had built some pressure while it was disassembled and it was holding static pressure against the fork. He was right! Gravity bled the hydraulics at the slave cylinder, golden. Which makes me think, had we thought to try bleeding the system when he bought the rig (we were told the clutch was bad) we may have got some life out of the old clutch. I believe if there's a bubble in the system it reacts to increased heat with just enough pressure against the fork to cause some slippage.

Thanks Slart. Sounds like Redline MT90 is the go-to around here? Any experience with Valvoline Synchromesh mentioned in this thread? Man, pulling that shifter boot out from under the carpet was a bugger when we dropped the tranny. Had I known at the time that the fill plug was unreliable I would have made sure we did that during clutch replacement. I just wanted to get the job done and assumed we could side fill it later.

Sorry to resurrect an old thread but here we are. I think I've read the the fill plug is too low on the early manual transmissions? It doesn't allow enough fluid to be added? (We have a 1993 XE 5spd 4x4) What is the actual fill amount by volume if the fill plug is unreliable? Is removing the boot and the four bolts on top of the tranny and filling from inside the cabin the best way? Thanks!

Hey all, I've been lurking here for some time and learning a lot. My 16yo son recently bought a 1992 XE 4x4 Manual Pathfinder (with 311K smiles!) for $400 cash from the original owner's son, it was his highway commuter rig for years and years. Pics coming at some point. Pretty proud of my son for buying his first rig outright and his willingness to work on something rather try to buy the newest thing he can get. It badly needed a new clutch, which we knew beforehand and explains the low price, but it ran reasonably well and I babied it for the ~hour drive home. This is the first Pathfinder we've ever had around, first Nissan now that I think about it although I had a 1977 Datsun pickup when I was his age. I've looked through a ton of threads and searched and learned and I also have some questions as we fix this thing up learn the intricacies. I don't mind starting a new thread for a specific topic when we get deep into it but I thought I'd post some info and my initial questions here and see if some of them can be eliminated easily. What we've done so far: New Exedy clutch/pressure-plate/throw-out bearing and a new flywheel, bled the system and adjusted the pedal position - drives and grabs great now! Replaced rear main seal It idled very low - thanks to this forum we replaced the PCV and the fuel filter, cleaned the MAF and throttle body, and adjusted the idle speed with the screw on the intake manifold - idles pretty good now! My son has deep cleaned the interior and fixed or replaced a lot of little things inside. Serviced the rear differential - the gear oil that came out looked really good so I'm hopeful this rig has been reasonably maintained over the years. What we plan to do: Timing belt and water pump/thermostat - no idea when this was done last, also replace the metal hose section behind the belts that is currently leaking New transmission fluid - (I know we could have done this while it was dropped but, well, we didn't, mostly because I still cannot find GL-4 fluid locally) Service the transfer case and front differential Service hubs - no idea how to do this yet (added with the edit) Replace a few work front end parts - overall things are pretty tight but it needs an idler arm and tie rod end at least EGR and Evap delete? probably? New plugs - we have a set of NGK 8mm silicone wires - no idea how old the plugs are New cap/rotor other hopes and dreams... Some questions I have: Headlights - has anyone found a reasonable upgrade or swap to improve the headlights and stay DOT legal? Manual transmission lube - Seems like Redline MT90 or MT85 is the favorite? I'll have to order it anyway. EGR/Evap delete - is it consensus that this is at least either neutral or beneficial? (we do not have smog inspections here) Fan - anyone have an electric fan? Like it? Links? Spark plugs - most info I've found is pretty old, are there new/favorite recommendations for spark plugs? Transfer case - a bit of ATF leaked from the output when we dropped the tranny, does this TC actually take ATF? Exhaust manifold studs - I'm figuring we'll replace these along with new gaskets as preventative maintenance if anything, I have not yet closely investigated for a leak and it isn't loudly obvious but seems common enough... This rig has low power/torque and a growly noise at lower RPM, like around 2K, the noise stops at like 2400 - it sounds good and accelerates well at upper RPMs...thoughts? This one might be worth it's own thread, this is what got me wondering about the manifold leak... Thanks for reading my novel.

Following. Our problem isn't quite this bad but I'm hoping to learn something