Splinter
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Posts posted by Splinter
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87-89 VG30i O2 sensors are 3-wire heated sensors. I think there's only one sensor on 90-95 VG30E's, too. The 4-cyl sensor may be a two-wire sensor, I don't remember.
I don't mean to sound rude, but are you saying that you think it's going to work or not? I re-read what you posted but am not sure if you are agreeing or disagreeing.
Thanks
Chris
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The part number is from a Nissan dealer. I do understand that the numbers will be different depending on which manufacturer and or supplier.
So you are saying that the round, barrel type connector plugged in as well as the rectangular one on your 89? Both of them are used? I was hoping that it was more of a universal unit that would work for one type of connector or the other.
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Ok, the part that he has does have two different connectors on it. One is the rectangular connection with 3 pins and the other is a small barrel type connector with one pin going to it.
I am assuming that the barrel type is for the 89 and older??
Thanks again.
Chris
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no, it won't work. 90+ up is a 3 wire sensor, 87-89 is 2 wire. i should know...... i had an 88 and wanted to put the o2 sensor in my 91. not gunna happen without some soldering and hacking... and then i wouldn't do it
Ok, odd part is that the one from the 89 has 3 wires, a red a black and a blue. Mine has white black and white.
When I googled the part number this is what I came up with. http://www.yiparts.com/data/Mode/NISSAN/Ox...102c5bc853.html
Any ideas?
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22690-12G02 is the part number I've got, and it's from an 89.
My rig is a 95. The connectors are the same, but I want to make sure that pipe thread is the same size before I buy it.
I know a guy that bought the sensor new and his Pathy died before he put it in and the stealership wouldn't let him return it (electrical part) so he has it for sale for half of what it would cost me new.
Thanks in advance.
Chris
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Right on buddeh!!!
There is a NAPA right around the corner from me, so I'll call them tomorrow and get/order one tomorrow.
I really appreciate the info, it's nice to have some others that have had experience with the same problem to draw from in a situation like this. I do trust the OBD, but just wanted to double check that the symptoms were the same.
Thanks to all for the input.
Chris
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Hey, just making sure that I wasn't throwing money away. I'm sure that you don't like replacing parts that you don't need to as much as I don't.
I AM taking your advice and changing it tomorrow, I just wanted to make sure that my symptoms actually matched the code.
Thanks Simon.
It's nice to have other peoples input in a situation that you aren't sure about.
Chris
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Hey, I've got one more question......
When I put gas in the pathy it seems to run worse for about 1/2 hour or until I shut it off.
Does that sound like an 02 sensor to you as well?
I don't mind replacing parts, I just don't want to spend $100 on something that I don't have to.
Thanks again
Chris
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Thanks Mookie.
It'll be awesome to change it out and hopefully see a gain in fuel economy too.
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Perfect man.
I just got off the phone with Part Source (Crappy tire anyway) and they wanted $108 for one.
He also told me that there is only one of them on it too.
I would have looked to see if there was more than one, but it's WAY to snowy out there to be underneath if I don't have to.
Thanks again for the info Simon.
Chris
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I've changed a couple, and yep, they're not too difficult at all.
Simon, can you tell me which one is the heated 02 sensor?
Also, can you tell me what you paid for yours? The kids at Crappy Tire can't seem to even answer the phone today, let alone give a price and availability.
Thanks man.
Chris
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I thought that it might be the TPS as stated in a previous thread, but after pulling the codes I am getting code:33, Heated O2 Sensor.
I've had 02 sensors crap out before, but I've never had it only seem bad at cruising speed. It normally makes you have a hard time accelerating and idles like poop too.
Any input from you guys would be great.
Thanks
Chris
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Thanks again man.
I'll keep you posted.
Chris
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Do I test it across the pins for the connector or do I ground to the body of it and use one of the pins?
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You can test it for a bad spot in the range of motion... BUT.
Sometimes a bad one will test good because you didn't hit *just* the right spot while testing.
The TPS is considered to be a consumable/wear part anyway. Eventually they wear out; 13 years is a nice long run for one.
Thanks GhostPath. I appreciate the info. When I test it am I using my OHM meter to test for resistance? Do you think that a bad TPS would cause the Pathy to hesitate while I am keeping a constant speed? It doesn't do it when I am accelerating, just at one speed.
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Thanks guys.
Now second question..... when you say that it's testable does that mean that I can test it for a bad spot in it's range of motion? Or is it just testable to see if it works?
Thanks
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I am trying to eliminate a hesitation problem that I have only when I am doing 85-95 kph. It doesn't do it under load like a bad wire, it only does it while I am cruising down the road.
Is the TPS a throw away or can I take it apart and clean it?
Thanks
Chris
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Replaced the sending unit and we're all good.
Thanks for the help.
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It doesn't work for me.
Can anyone else actually make the page open?
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ok, found a wire broken off. Stripped it back to good clean wire checked it for 12v and cleaned up the terminal, but still nothing.
Across the top of all 4 connectors there is a plastic piece that bridges across them. They aren't all connected together are they? It doesn't make sense to me, but I'm taking a stab at it.
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To tell you the truth it was changed about a year ago, but I'll start there.
I'm just pulling up the carpet this morning and starting to pull the inspection plate.
I'll check the wiring first and then go to the filter.
I am concerned that I can't hear the pump cycle on when I first turn the key, but I've never actually noticed it run before either. I can hear the relays click on and off but no pump.
Thanks for the ideas.
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Cool. Thanks Simon.
Now, can you please clarify something for me. What role does the sending unit play in getting fuel to the engine? My thought was that the sending unit was only for the fuel gauge.
Thanks again.
Chris
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I'm going to check it out in the morning, but I thought I'd throw it up on here first and see what the consensus is.
1995 3.0L Auto.
Driving down the road today for about 45 mins. It's nice and warmed up, but it's very wet outside. Around 7* and slushy and wet. After 45 mins of driving it just quit. Tried to start it, it spits and sputters and tries really hard to go, but it quits after 2-4 seconds of running. It doesn't quite run either, it sounds like its on 3 cyls or something.
I am assuming fuel pump as I don't hear the whir coming from the tank when I turn the key.
I DO however hear the relays click on and off under the hood.
I am going to pull the inspection panel in the cargo area and check my connections in the morn and see if anything is corroded or just wet. I'll spray some wire dryer on the connections too.
What do you guys think?
Thanks, and Happy New Year everyone.
Chris
OH, ALSO, will a used pump from other model years work? I am sure they are quite compatable but don't know what years have the same pump. I've found two used pumps from a 91 and a 90. Will they work?
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See his original post.
You know what's funny Simon. I did go back and read the original post before I asked the question, but I must have skimmed over it too fast and didn't see the size.
I just guess I should slow down a bit and read better, huh?
Will an 02 sensor from an 89 work in my 95?
in 90-95 WD21 Pathfinders
Posted
Ok, damn. My 95 has 3 wires.
I searched the topic, but my case is time sensitive and I had to just ask instead of weeding through a ton of topics.
Thanks for the help. It is really appreciated.