xspyrd

Oh! Since there are 4, maybe for the rear seat hinges? Because I have smaller light gray ones on the front seats.

Today’s Race Sport Gen 2 wasn’t truly plug n play on my 94 WD21 SE. the plug was a little long and the material want as thick, so the factory tab that holds the lamp in the socket wasn’t able to engage because I didn’t clear it by distance, and if it had, it wouldn’t engage because the fin that it engages wasn’t the right size. As a result, I had to use a dremel to remove a weak 1/16” off the end to get it to seat properly in the socket, and I had to use 3 zip ties each lamp to lock them to the socket and prevent the accident loss of light, which would be scary AF. I’m still a little nervous TBH and may as more redundancy to the belt and suspenders approach.

I did plug the timer back in, and locks are working as intended! As for the TSB with wiring, no need to look up, it’s linked in the thread I shared and it’s very helpful along with the discussion there. Thank you for the guidance, it feels good to have eliminated the source.

For those keeping score at home: When this plug is plugged, the WD21 starts, when it’s unplugged it only powers up. Going g to drive it like this until I can confirm that these can just be connected or do they have to go through the rely they are connected to in the other side of the plug.

Found this answer to my last question.

Here is the latest…no surprise, but switches and chimes had no effect on the dome light. So then I unplugged the connector with two black wires with yellow strip going into the factory Security System, that had no effect. So I unbolted the drivers seat, kinda annoyed that one of the bolts was open to the ground below. And then unplugged the module. As soon as the long white connector was removed the light dome turned off. I replugged it alone, and the light came back on. I removed the secured module entirely and put the key into start, NO DOOR WARNING LIGHT! I reattached the driver side door switch, and it works as designed, warning light when open, off when closed. Is my problem solved? May I just tape the connectors that were attached to the security system and live happily ever after?!

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Regarding relay location, see attached picture. Regarding the rear dome light it appears to only light up when switched into the ON position, and it stays on. When in the middle position, the light remains off regardless of whether or not the rear hatch is open or closed or any side doors are open. Regarding front footwell lights, I vaguely recall there being one on the passenger side, but I checked and neither side appears to have one. The passengers side has a loose plug proximate to a hole that appears to be a mounting location, but I have no idea what either are. I have included a picture that shows both the 2-lead connector and the mounting hole. There is nothing similar on the driver side. I will now proceed with the recommendation to leave the dome light on and unscrew the door switches. The stock security system was ignored a long time ago, but I don't know what parts are still remaining, I do know the center console red LED is always on regardless of which position the switch is in (3 positions, Impact and something else, I can't recall). The arcing was a reminder to him to disconnect the battery, which he promptly did. I'll report back on the additional troubleshooting, thank you for the advice!! R

It did not start after the wreck, it actually started after an alternator replacement. I had done it my self twice before without a problem, but this time I had it done by a mobile mechanic, who preferred to do it from above rather than below. Aside from the angle of approach, the only thing that was out of the ordinary was at some point while he was reaching down and wrenching, he caused an arc. Which I immediately dreaded because of the past electrical experiences. I drove home and notice the light and figured something wasn’t fully closed. But when I took the next trip o checked the doors and that’s when the light remained. I called the repair guy and he dismissed that it could be related. I intentionally left this out of the first post so that I didn’t send someone in the wrong direction. I have no idea what was in the vicinity of the arc, it was somewhere in that space between the alternator and the radiator, above the alternator height, maybe close to the top of the radiator in elevation than down below, but really don’t know.

I’m at a loss and completely exasperated. I’ll first describe current status, then all that I have attempted to get here. Bottom light, is done light in door position will remain always on with or without key, and door warning light also is always on, no flicker, anytime key is in the ignition and turned. Current state of 1994 Pathfinder SE (WD21): All 4 passenger door switches are new, as well as the rubber covers. The door relay behind the rear driver side trim panel is new. The door timer box is disconnected (this finally stoped the warning chime and subsequent battery drain). The wire connected to the rear hatch latch has been disconnected. The door switch for the tire carrier has been removed (resolved the Tire Carrier) warning light always being on after I was rear ended and it tacked my tire carrier causing it to no longer contact switch. I have removed, inspected, cleaned and reinstalled the piezo warning and the door chime, both are behind the trim panel on driver side below dash (both were previously inaudible, now both are clearly audible). Things tried: Adding shims to doors to make sure door switches were being engaged. Troubleshooting the switches, by disconnecting each one, no change to door light, only the Tire Carrier light, once that one was removed. Running without the chimes connected. I have zero other warning lights, and at this point I’m at a complete loss. It was a similar electrical anomaly that eventually led to phantom battery drain and inoperable tail lights on my prior 94 SE and caused me to give it up during the Cash for Clunkers days. I really don’t want to loose this one and the same way. I right now I’m fine, with it being fully manual door looks and no battery drain, but it does bother me that there is seemingly no explanation for why the pathfinder thinks there is an open door somewhere when there isn’t. Any and all help is welcome, and thank you for reading all of this!

Mass Air Flow can do that, especially if it’s sporadic. Just something to be mindful of. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I like it. I may mask off something similar and hit it with some liner paint. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I should have posted here first. Normally when I try unplugging something it has unintended consequences. This doesn’t appear to have any thus far! Thank you. Full manual definitely has some annoying drawbacks, but I really like not worrying about draining my battery or having to disconnect the battery or some unexpected actuation of the locks. Thank you! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk