[pulling to the left]

maby bleed right side and check disks :tonguefinger:

[Steering shakes when going over 50 mph?]

loose lug nuts can also cause this problem :tonguefinger:

[Camshaft Position Sensor, anyone with any experience?]

So my motor has developed a tick that has been getting worse, the dealer suggested running that valve lifter cleaner stuff for a couple of oil changes but it is still getting worse. Then on the weekend, it threw 2 codes, one an O2 sensor and the other a cam positioning sensor.

 

Dealer is suggesting the following: Check both the sensors to make sure they are working, replace if required (they are some sort of solenoid that activates the cam adjusters). About 1 hour labour plus parts.

 

If they are OK, then it is a big front end job to inspect, clean and replace if required (at $400 each) the actual cam adjusters. They estimate almost 16 hours to do this as it is essentially the same as replacing the timing chain. So worse case it will be pushing $3,000 with taxes and parts.

 

Has anybody had any kind of experience themselves with this? They mention that as these parts are all hydraulically activated, that they can get "gunky" but I have been using full syn oil for the last 40,000 km and since I bought the beast, with 60,000 km (it now has 143,000 km) the oil has been changed every 5,000 km, dino or syn.

 

1)try reseting computer-pull fuse for computer-wait 5 min-

replace fuse. go for a variable ride-to set up pewter. check codes

 

2)use heavier oil-10w30 or 10w40 to stop tick.

 

3)dont leave engine cleaner in--drain it out with oil change

[Suspesion Switch?]

No, it doesn't add or remove air. The Nissan factory adjustable shocks have a little motor or solenoid inside that changes the valving based on the position of the selector switch.

 

ok, sorry i wasnt sure. yeah the valve selects increased or

decreased fluid movement within the absorber which gives

you 2 shocks in 1 :tonguefinger:

 

Sport=less fluid flow=stiffer ride

Touring=more fluid flow=softer ride.

 

 

something like that :shiftyeyes:

[What is the perfect/correct oil type for a 90 pathfinder?]

When I obtained my pathy, I had the oil changed. They told me to get 10w something, I did. I bought Mobil 1 and they changed it. However, I was shopping for oil again, to be brave enough to change my own oil..then I noticed theres a 5w for suvs/trucks. Is this the one I should be using? Is there any harm associated in using different types (5w, 10w, etc)? My pathy has a little over 155,000 miles, is there a pretty good oil type I should be sticking too?

 

On a side note, are there really differences in oils? Someone told me not to waste bucks on Mobil One, but go with the cheap 2$ walmart brand, because I'll be changing it anyway. Hmm, he maybe right, but if I can get a little more protection or performance from mobile one, I'll stick with it.

 

oil thins as it heats up so:

 

the 5 in 5w30 means the oil has a cold startup wt of a

5w oil:

light... for safe engine starts.

 

the 30 in 5w30 means the oil has the wt "characteristics"

of a 30 wt oil at normal operating temp:

 

heavier... meaning it changes its

wieght "characteristics" or its viscosity with varying engine

temps.

 

so 0 or 5w30 or 40 in the winter and 10 or 20w30 40 or even 50

in the summer is what u want to use.

:tonguefinger: :tonguefinger: :tonguefinger: :tonguefinger:

[Ticking]

u might want to look into an engine flush to clean the

gunk that could be cloging oil flow and preventing lifters

and other moving parts from moving freely.

then try a good heavier oil depending on milage and

engine wear. :tonguefinger:

[Suspesion Switch?]

use touring in cold weather to soften the ride

because the cold air stiffins the shock absorber

movement and sport in summer to stiffen the

ride because hot weather increases absorber

movement.

 

i can usualy tell the difference :tonguefinger:

 

if you turn key to on and select sport or touring

you can hear it click both ways. i think it either

adds or removes air to the absorber to stiffin or

soften the ride, or absorber movement.

[Voltage Gauge Way off]

mine shows close to 18v too. now im not as worried about it.

good deal!!! :tonguefinger:

[95 pathfinder rear disc "baffle plate" rusted out]

Just joined post. Fixing up 95 pathfinder.

 

Any tips on replacing rusted out brake shields/baffle plates? Service manual suggests that you have to press the axle out of the outer bearings before you can replace the plate.

 

Has anyone done this repair?

 

Is the axle fairly easy to press out with a 20 ton press?

 

Also, how difficult is it to remove the lock nut that keeps the outer wheel bearings in the bearing carrier? Is the special Nissan tool a must for this?

are u sure u want to replace them?

man that sounds like a big job for

some stupid gaurds that dont do

nothin :coffee!:

[95 pathfinder rear disc caliper removal]

Trying to figure out exactly how the upper caliper pin (the one that the caliper pivots on for pad replacement) is removed on the 95 pathfinder rear disc brake (or how the caliper comes off the pin). There doesn't appear to be a bolt head on it, although that is what the service manual shows.

 

Need to remove calipers...but don't want to put a lot of force on it before I know how it normally comes off...

there are 2 big ol 5/8? in bolts holding the caliper on the

iner side of the disc gaurd. i used an impact gun and

they came right out.

 

hey if your only replacing the pads the caliper

does not need to be removed. take out the lower

guide pin bolt,then swing pad braket plate up to

remove the pads.