dougdavis
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Posts posted by dougdavis
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Does anyone know the size of the torsion bar lock nuts that sit on top of the adjusting nut? I seem to have dropped the lock nuts while adjusting the torsion bars a few days ago and i have to go buy 2 more. Size and thread pitch is all i need to know.
Just to make sure everyone knows what im talking about, its the nuts you loosen above the nuts the torsion bar adjuster screws in to. Thanks ahead of time!
I think they are 19mm.
Doug
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Hey, If any of you are having issues with your AC not blowing as cold as it should, try this:
I noticed I had a ton of dust and dried mud in my condenser from doing a lot of wheeling lately. Used compressed air gun to blow it all out and it made a HUGE difference in the way it cooled.
I wish every fix was this easy and cheap...
Doug Davis
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So I am doing the opposite that Ultrafinder is:
That is I'm taking a open diff out of a drum brake truck, installing a lock right, then putting that unit in a LSD, disc brake truck. Question: do I put a thrust block in or no thrust block.
The reason I'd like to find out is that I'm having lots of problems with a lock right install and am thinking the thrust block might be the culprit. I kept the block in on my first lock right install and busted all the pins in the lock right. Now I've gotten thicker thrust washers to put in, but on a bench test it still doesn't seem to click the way it should.
So again, my question is: When putting an open diff from a drum truck into a disc LSD truck do you use a thrust block or not.
Thanks,
Doug Davis
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I just installed a set of old man emu rear springs and shock set. I haven't had any experience with any other aftermarket shocks to compare, but I must say they are a tremendous improvement. Smooth ride and very good off road in sandy South Jersey conditions.
Doug
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Pure luck I guess although I am moving ECU to glovebox asap. Will removing the alarm unit cause any problems? You are right it was not in the FSM. Glad you could answer then.
Thanks,
Doug
Just an update for those who want to remove alarm control unit- The remote lock feature on the key fob no longer works if you do, evidently that function is part of the alarm unit. No other problems that I can see so far...
Doug
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You will not find it in the FSM. It was a dealer installed accessory. The alarm control box is under the drivers seat. It is a black box witha a white sticker.
How have you not harmed the alarm module but not the ECU with water?
Pure luck I guess although I am moving ECU to glovebox asap. Will removing the alarm unit cause any problems? You are right it was not in the FSM. Glad you could answer then.
Thanks,
Doug
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Anybody ever remove the alarm control unit from their pathy? Mine is acting crazy going off by itself ever since I started hitting serious water on the trail. I don't think there are too many people stealing 95 pathys out there so Id just as soon get rid of it. It sounds like there is some kind of control unit under the armrest cause I hear clicking under there when it is going off. I can't turn it off because the little rocker switch is broken and doesn't do anything. Im thinking of jumping two of the switch wires or completely removing any control unit I find. The only worry with that is maybe if I remove the control unit the ignition won't work anymore but I doubt it works that way.
I'll try to peruse the FSM for more info, but in the mean time, maybe someone here has some advice.
Thanks,
Doug
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Your welcome, I bet that will fix it. Let us know..
Middle size shims ordered. 13$ apiece now. There are only three sizes available for the 4 spider open diff from Nissan. I picked the middle size so I hope that works. I will post the results when I get them in.
Doug
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There is a procedure in the FSM to find out which thickness you need. I just guessed and ordered the middle size. Worked perfect. 100% differrence. I could not unlock lockright on the bench or vehicle until i put in the new washers. I took it in/out a few times trying different things. I kept breaking those pins. This was my 5th lock right install. Never had this issue before. I currently have a lock right in each front dana 44. I had one in the rear of the pathy.
The washers are $11 each. You need 2.
Thank you very much. I will try it.
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try new thrust washers, I had the same issue.
Nissan nut,
How did you know what size thrust washers to use? I thought they come in many sizes. Maybe I'm wrong.
Thanks,
Doug
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Mine is an auto and when it was new, it did tend to stick locked. A few turns around a concrete parking lot broke it loose, be prepared for a scary noise when it does.
88, how long did that take to correct itself? I will give it more time and see if it gets better.
5523, I think I got all the springs installed correctly. I didn't change the backlash, but did not check to see if it was right either. I ahd to buy a used third member from a junkyard because mine was a LSD. I don't know how good the one I bought was, so I'll check it when I take everything apart again.
Thanks for your help.
Doug
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I went through the exact same thing a little while ago. Everything looked fine but it had a lot of backlash, so I had that setup at a shop but it did not change it at all. I read somewhere else that if you have an auto tranny, it will always be locked, dont know what you have though.
Mine is an automatic. What did you do to fix yours? Or is it still locked all the time?
Doug
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Just got done installing my lock right on a 95 SE.
It doesn't work right and was hoping to find someone to help diagnose.
The locker went in well and I followed various write-ups (from this forum) and lock right instructions to the letter, except I didn't measure the spider shaft gaps they talked about in the lock right booklet (it was very confusing and I couldn't figure out exactly what was supposed to be measured). From what I can tell, the only reason for it not to work would be wear in the thrust washers and side gears. However, everything in the diff looked practically brand new, so I figured it was OK.
The problem is that the unit is locked all the time. It doesn't ratchet or click like it is supposed to. It acts like a spool.
I am going to take it apart this weekend and try to see anything obvious that I did wrong. I was hoping any here knowlegeable could offer some suggestions on things that could go wrong, or problems to look for.
thanks,
Doug
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After a search of the local parts dealers I have been unable to find a dealer able to help me order a compression/tension rod and bushings for my 93 XE. Just wondering if there is anyway to purchase these new or do I have to search through local salvage yards. Thanks in advance for any help you all can give me on this one.
I just got every single front end bushing (including tension rod bushings) and ball joints/tie rod ends from my local Napa dealer. Had them all in 1 day. They should be available from any good local parts house no problem. Steer clear of the big Pep Boys style supermarket stores and find one that caters to local repair shops. I was surprised to see that these parts were available in several brands as well, some cheaper than others.
Doug
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Anybody here have any experience with the old man emu shocks and springs? In particular, how was the ride quality compared to stock. On their website they claim that, while their sprimgs don't provide much lift, the springs and shocks greatly increase ride quality. I'm not interested in much lift so maybe this would be a kit to consider. I've read a lot about Calmini and others on this forum, but haven't found anything on OME stuff. Thanks in advance for any input.
Doug Davis
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Sorry to hijack this thread a little bit but... When you go for an alignment after re-indexing, do they set it to factory specs or do they use some other numbers. Seems to me if you go to high with the torsion bars they might not be able to get it right anymore. I wonder if a "regular" alignment shop (like Firestone for example) can handle it properly. Anybody out there who could share their experience with a realignment after raising the front?
Thanks
Doug Davis
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I'll get some pics and post them ASAP. You have to butt weld 2 lower mounts on the lower parts of bumper after you fit it up on the Kennesaw. The steel is pretty thick; 3/16 I think so I stick welded it probably 12" of welding in all.
Doug
Of, I forgot you also have to weld the stock bumper mounts to the top of the KM bumper
Doug
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Doug, what welding did ya have to do for install, and can you get us some more pics. Would like to see how it looks aside from the one pic on the website.
I'll get some pics and post them ASAP. You have to butt weld 2 lower mounts on the lower parts of bumper after you fit it up on the Kennesaw. The steel is pretty thick; 3/16 I think so I stick welded it probably 12" of welding in all.
Doug
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I got a Kennesaw Mountain bumper without the brush guard for my '95. It was about $550 with shipping to NJ but probably a lot more shipping to CA because it has to be shipped on common carrier.
The up sides: A nicely built bumper with lots of custom options available. Fit and quality were very good.
Down: Had to wait a long time for it (7 weeks!). Welding required to install. The way it mounts is a little weak on the top because it uses some pretty small stock bolt locations that I worry about when winching, but hasn't failed yet. I've winched pretty hard on it too so I guess it's OK.
http://www.kenmtnac.com/WiNissan.html is the web address.
Doug
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Thanks so much that kennesaw bumper looks perfect!
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Has anyone seen For a 95 Pathfinder:
1) a front hitch, or
2) a front bumper with a receiver built in
I'd like to get a portable receiver winch for my Pathy, but can't seem to find a front hitch that will fit it.
Thanks,
Doug Davis
ARB snorkel install
in 90-95 WD21 Pathfinders
Posted · Edited by dougdavis
Anybody know a link to a good ARB snorkel install on a D21 with a 3.0 V6? I think I've seen one before but now, I can't find it after searching. There are some changes you have to make to the kit because it is made for the diesel and doesn't fit exactly on the gas v6.
Anyway anone with some info or help it would be apreciated. I finally got my ARB snorkel kit the other day after waiting 4 months(!) for it and want to put it in right.
Doug