Gscottyengineering

I'm very interested in this. Last barrier to a manual swap (which is what I really wanted not building an auto) is figuring out the ECU situation. If you share codes and whether the car actually runs and drives maybe some of the codes can be dealt with via simulating the inputs the auto ECU is expecting.

Hey ya'll! Starting this thread to document my latest project which is DIY rebuilding a junkyard RE4R01A transmission from an '01 VQ35DE pathfinder to revive my recent project R50 purchase with a known bad high clutch pack. I want my R50 to be a Colorado mountain adventure vehicle I can trust to drive far from home and have peace of mind towing a small camper redlining up high altitude inclines without worrying about having a high mileage black box for a transmission. I've never done this before but here are the main resources I'm using for information: 1) Nissan FSM off NicoClub, AT section for diagrams and basic procedures 2) Curmudgeon Transmission's excellent 1 hour and 37 minute video going over the entire rebuild process in detail, with gotchas. Parts list: - Junkyard transmission, high mileage - $150 - PA Cargo / Transtec overhaul kit - $130 - Borg Warner band, - $15 (even though original looked totally fine, it's old so replacing it) - Raybestos high energy frictions - $80 - PA Cargo bushing kit - $25 - Brand new Transtar front planet assembly (one planet has more play than the rest after dissassembly)... I bought the last one in stock anywhere...! - $70 - TransGo valve body shift kit upgrade - $50 Yesterday I pulled most of the transmission apart into component assemblies before deciding to stop and get a better pair of snap ring pliers. My plan is to attack each complex component assembly containing seals, frictions, springs, etc individually to avoid having a giant pile of similar looking parts that could potentially get mixed up. I'll bounce back and forth between Curmudgeon's disassembly and rebuild videos for each major component, doing one at a time until I've got a pile of assemblies ready to go back into the case. Images from 1 hour into the disassembly - Note wear found on the reverse drum bushing, steel is showing through the copper. Incidentally there was a normal amount of copper colored glitter in the pan (no chunks), hoping it's just that and the front planet washers which are known to wear: https://imgur.com/a/2YQFQA7

It has an "AT Overtemp" light, so that must be just an on/off switch then?

Just bought a Pathy and use a ELM327 adapter with the Car Scanner and free Consult II app. I can't find anything related to the transmission. I know these have a transmission temperature sensor, and I want to be able to see it along with any TCM codes. Before I start trying all sorts of different apps, anyone got a solution?

Thanks for the welcome! I bought the car, it's a totally rust-free california car and the engine ran better than my G35's even with 30k more miles... No codes even at 216k. Just needs a new transmission to be able to drive faster than 40 or so while keeping a safe RPM. I've got the manually shifted transfer case so don't think I need to worry about that.... Flywheel, I can try using one from my old G35 and if that doesn't work that's what lathes are for! The only thing I'm having issues sourcing now is the manual ECU, or finding a resource/guide to work with the existing ECU.

Update: I bought it. Engine runs great with no codes and all the scantool data checks out... no black soot on the tailpipe, no timing rattle like my G35, and very well maintained with no oil leaks on anything.... other than transmission fluid dripping from where a real main seal leak would manifest. Probably why the transmission went out. California garage kept car, less rust underneath than our 2015 and 2018 cars from New England.... I just couldn't not buy it despite the miles. Looking forward to throwing a junkyard transmission into it short term and gathering parts for a manual swap / JDM motor in the future. Hopefully the rest of the forum is more active than this section, I hate Facebook

Hello all. I'm considering purchasing and manual swapping a high mileage 3.5 R50 pathy with a bad automatic for a reliable Colorado mountain transport vehicle for summer and winter ski, hike, and mountain bike seasons. I used to run a VQ35DE G35 as an autocross car, and have removed its manual transmission by myself several times before so this is all within the scope of my abilities as a mechanic. I found a guide for manual swapping the earlier R50s with the 3.3, here: http://www.overlandtrucks.com/system-f/NPTC.pdf However that's specific to the 3.3 for most of the part numbers and while it gives an idea (pretty easy swap) it's not directly applicable. I'm able to source the transmission itself, and I see clutch parts for a 2002 3.5 manual pathy are available new from RockAuto. This seems like a super straightforward swap according to the guide but before I dive in, want to make sure I've got it all right. Questions: A- Will existing driveshafts for the auto fit the manual? B- Will the existing automatic transfer case fit the manual? Any upgrades here I'll regret not doing while the transmission is out? C- The ECU seems harder to source than the trans itself. Can the automatic ECU be reprogrammed with Uprev or another software tool like manual swapping a G35/350z? D- Clutch system. I was thinking I'd just grab junkyard parts off a g35 and make it work with the pathy, 3d printing and fabricating mounts as I go to avoid having to find a manual pathfinder donor car. E- Power valves in the automatic car need to be dealt with. Do I need a whole intake manifold from a manual pathfinder, or can I delete the power valves on the existing intake? What about using a G35/350z VQ35DE intake and a CAI in order to avoid having to source parts from a manual Pathfinder? Anyone who's been around here for awhile have any feedback for any or all of these questions? Thanks in advance!!

Hey ya'll! To introduce myself I'm an engineer by training who used to autocross and modify my VQ35DE powered 6MT G35 coupe with 190k, which I still own and drives great, so I'm somewhat familiar with Nissan issues, have used the FSM, etc. Today I'm looking at a clean California 2002 Pathy, 212k with a bad auto that won't shift into third gear for $2000. Images here: https://imgur.com/a/6swXuy0 I've removed the transmission in my G35 several times over the years and am not concerned with doing it again for the right car. That said, symptoms (no slippage, no shift to third) point to Shift Solenoid B or other related valve body / O ring issues according to the FSM, so I'll try that first. Recently replaced: Valve covers and gaskets Plugs Coils (I will make sure they are hitachi, if not negotiate) Idle control valve ECU (because of the above, probably). Any feedback on whether this is a good buy or should I run away? Everything looks good on the surface but maybe there's a gotcha with these that I don't know about?