Xmas
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Thats too clean for a wd21, where is the little rust spots and dings/scratches
No rust, but there are some dings. Nothing to call mom about as say its ugly. to make is almost perfect, I just need to replace both front and rear bumpers. They are just dinged, but no frame damage. Nicks here and there that's about it.
On the 2nd pic from the top, look by the front close to bumper by the fender
well. It has a ding there.
Only thing needs work as for interior is the seats need to be shampoo'd and headliner got some stains, other then that..... almost cherry,
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:tonguefinger:
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thanks for the response.
Well I can do some things. I done hub bearings on my old 1982 Cutlass but from what I was told, the bearings on the Pathy is more difficult b/c of the 4x4.
What is your take?
My buddy said that since my truck is clean / straight, he said these things are wear and tear items and said more then likely even if you get a newer dated car, I would have to take on about car payments, auto insurance (full coverage) and then its breakdown if you was not to have warranty.
So like Glenn said, I think I am going to go forward to fixing it.
The Balljoints (lower) I can do. I help a buddy of mine that used to have a 1992 Hardbody and we did it with no prob.
Now tie rods... I am little worried b/c it will need an alignment.
Thanks all.... I will go ahead and take the task and do the lower ball joints myself....
..... now about about the bearings? Is it easy on the 4x4?? TIPS?? The parts are only like $10.00 lol
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A good friend of mine overlooked at my Pathy and to find out that the bearings are loose and needs to be replaced soon.
He also said that the tie-rods, lower ball joints, then he said that I also should replace the upper ball joints.
Also I have a lifter knocking on the driver side (Yes, I did replace the exhaust manifold bolts
)Now on these Pathy's; how hard is the job to replace the front wheel bearings (4x4) ??
I was told the job would be about another $1200.00 to do all this.
*** Now , do you all think I should do it?
I already put about $1100.00 into it by getting the rear main seal, small block gaskets replaced, exhaust manifold bolts, timing belt replacement kit w/ all other belts.
Right now what I paid into the vehicle and all the repairs, I have about $4200.00 total into it. If I get the ^ above replaced, I will be out another 1200.00
So I am thinking about not getting the other $hit replaced and just selling it out before I take this loss.
I can afford the repair but do you think it's worth go forward w/ the repair?
Now.... in the future.... I am not sure what else it will need fixed, but man........
What's your guy's take on this??
Thanks
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Have a look at your CV boots. If they're busted open, and the grease is gone, you could have clicking CV's, though, that'd only be in 4wd.
Otherwise, it could be something as simple as a rock in your tire.
Yep, CV boot is EXPOSED and very dry (grease is gone). So I assume its on its last leg
I think I'm going to replace all the ball joints and the cv boot/axel on both sides.
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Not sure what the hell the noise is coming from, but when I am rolling I hear a clicking.
I'm think either the hubs (4x4) are going bad or could it be the dry exposed CV BOOT??
The sound kind of reminds me of my 1992 Nissan Maxima, which it was then was the CV Knuckle.
What'cha think it is?? ??
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Thanks U 2.
Since I been driving more often and longer distance I start to feel it.
Somedays it seems to get warmer then others. Like today, same route to work and it was just a little bit warm (4x4 rod / shifter metal part of the rod), it was no where as warn as it was yesterday. I think I am going to change the differential fluids. It prob needs to be replaced
Oh - the boot is for sure ripped
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I think I read on here that if the 4x4 shifter boot is ripped you can feel the heat around your right leg / knee.
Also I notice that my 4x4 shifter (not the knob) is pretty warm to mild hot also.
Normal??
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Ditto on Lucas products.
I use the fuel injection cleaner by lucas and the truck rides and sounds great. I did use the oil treatment also. I get about 17mpg (4x4 / AT)
I was getting 11mpg before I replaced my clogged up CAT, and my bad O2 sensor.O2 sensor was like $25 from some guy on Ebay. Works sweet. CAT... I had a mechanic put it in and he soaked me ($300 for the part!)
Then it went up to like 15mpg.
A couple months ago I did an oil change just before a road trip, and tossed in a bottle of Lucas oil treatment. I got 19mpg! I was blown away! A couple tanks of gas later, I was back down to 15.
I'm gonna check all my vacuum lines and stuff to see if I can't clean it up a bit.
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Ok, now starting to wonder.
I would like to know how I can find out if my 1995 XE has an OEM amplifier?
If so; where would it be located at?
I want to rip it out. lol
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What is a good deal for a shop to install a body lift for my Pathy? (just labor / install)
I am thinking about the one from 4x4 parts. Would this be the recommended one also??
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Stay tuned;
Dynamat installing to doors very soon
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I guess i need to sit back and gather in some more info till i can feel comfortable with a final word since there are many diffrent storys about the speakers...
im not on a unlimited budget, but i dont have to go the super cheapo either
Crow - keep in mind that "I THINK" on the 1994 & 1995 model Pathy's had the rear 5x7 in the rear roof and not at the doors. I do not recall that the older model WD21's had rear speakers mounted in the ceiling / roof of the hatch area.
Am I right guys?
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I have a set of $25 Pyle 5x7 speakers in the front, and a set of $125 Eclipse 5x7s in the rear of my 93.....the fronts sound 10 times better.
Closer to the ears?
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Slick, is there a burp valve for the coolant? if so, where about? I remember I had to do that to my old Acura Legend.
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Ok, sounds that the consensus it, it likely is leaking oil, and possibly coolant. I'm going to take another look at it tomorrow, and also will get it inspected.
From discussion so far, it seems like it can leak from one or more of:
- oil pressure sender
- valve cover seals
- RMS
RMS sounds like a lot of work ($600+), oil pressure sender is a fairly easy fix (am i correct?), what about valve cover seals (complexity/cost, anyone know?)
Its not the RMS. If it was, it would look like it was leaking above the oil pan. I had crap load of pics of mine which had the RMS leak
Here is what a RMS leak looks like:
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I would say yes. The one I got are in the rear right now. It fit perfect, just screw them in
So the front should be the same.
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From that pic is looks like it maybe leaking from the side of the motor due to oil on the A-arm.
As these guys mention above, check out oil pressure sending unit or valve covers for leakage.
I had my Rear main seal changed that leak does not look like its coming from that area. (god bless) for that.
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So aftermarket 5x7's wont fit with out modifaction no matter what brand?
Do they make some kind of adapter ring or are you stuck doing somthing else?
I thought it would just be a simple switch and go...
Those metra speakers any good?
I figure if you have the stock tweeters still active those metras should take car of the bass & midrange?
I had no luck in the rear for any 5x7; but I did find an exact OEM 5x7 that I got from AutoZone that did fit w/o any cutting. I think the brand is called MERTA or something like that. The pair of speakers cost $20.00. Not really loud but sounds good for OEM replacements and its better then the busted / worn out Nissan OEMs that was in there since 1995, lol.
~ Oh and they do sound better then those Sony Xplod that I fabricated 4x6s as you see in the pics. At least they got some bass by the 5x7. The Sony 4x6 was no bass all treble
I do plan to take those out and replace / cut for some 6.5"/
Let me know, I can sell you those Merta 5x7 for 13.00 shipped.
(they are about a month or two old.
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I think he sold those to someone already cuz HE SMASHED HIS PATHY!!!!!
Did you ever get your cluster?
http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=17284&hl=
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Hey all - I decided to put a little bit more effort into my Pathy sound system.
To find out that even though in the front doors it has speaker baskets for the 5x7, you can easily remove the plastic speaker baskets and replace them w/ some 6.5" speakers.
I purchased some Clarion 6.5" 2-ways for about $50.00. I just had to make new speaker holes.
Here it is:
Then the bass inside sux. I wanted little bit of BOOM. Well ok, more then a little, but I added a RE 12" Sub and then a US AMPS 1100 watts x 1 (Bridged) Now it sounds wonderful.
Probably over this weekend I am planning to replace the 5x7 that are in the rear (OEM speakers by MERTA) and using a small Dremmel tool to cut out the sheet metal a little to add another pair of these Clarion 6.5" (that I also have in the front)
Anyways here is my sub and amp finally mounted and installed nicely.
Plan to do rear window LIMO-TINT, rip out the POS factory alarm and going w/ a Viper
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That's for the 1994 trucks only - there's about a billion copies of this kicking around the internet already.
Yea I saw that *94*, but what huge diff is the 94 model versus 1990-1993 or 1995?
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saw that. I had to provide the link: http://www.thenissanpath.com/filelib/D21/Service/FWD.pdf
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what year JGC rear springs did ya buy?
I clayed my Pathy; Look what happend!
in 90-95 WD21 Pathfinders
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Yea - decided to do it and I did not do the roof though lol
I still would like to get an good ol buffin pad on the paint and bring the shine out some more. The claybar really did help a good bit.