NewPaths

I can't exactly vouch for the price (though they sound reasonable, considering the likely cost of an OE water pump + tensioner), but check out: http://www.midwaypartsteam.com. When I had my other Nissan this was *the* place that I'd order OE parts.... cam-on-bucket shims that normally would have cost me $10 at the local stealerships only ran me around $7. Quite a chunk of change when you consider 16valves. The only thing I think I bought locally was an O2 sensor, but that's only because the counter clerk hooked me up with a discount. Anyways, those look to be good prices.

Oh BTW, 122,xxx on the dial.

Hi Folks, I'm hoping maybe someone has come across this before, before I throw any parts at this beast. On two occasions, when I left from work, the pathfinder hesitated really bad (felt like a constant mis-fire: the engine/exhaust literally sounded like it was under water!) after it had rained that day. Huge drop in power: struggled to get up to speed. It may be actually rain related, or humidity, I'm not sure. The important point is that it happened *immediately* after I began pulling out of the parking spot, so it's not water getting splashed onto the O2 or similar underneith. (unless it's draining down onto something while sitting). I have some really bad exhaust leaks: at least one on the driver-side manifold (at head or collector, not sure) and on the muffler. MPG was calculated last week at 17.7mpg, mostly highway. After (slowly!) getting on the highway it seemed OK. Actually after warmed up it seemed to run better than usual. When I first bought the truck I ran a 1/2 can of seafoam through the brake booster vac line (how I find exhaust leaks!). After the first incident: I pulled codes, nothing. I pulled cap and inspected cap/rotor: they're worn, but no abnormal arcing on the cap. The two plugs I pulled were marsh-mallowy brown (OK). MAF was cleaned with a good non-oiling electrical cleaner after the first incident. Any thoughts? I dont have any experiance diagnosing auto tranny's, but I can tell mine is shifting a little harsh (fluid is still nice and red, not burnt, and an OEM radiator was installed not long ago by prior owner). Can an auto tranny stumble like this? Thanks, Jamie

Personally I keep the shock sensor disabled (middle switch position). After key->out, and locking the doors, you get 30seconds to exit. There are two zones: doors and hatch/hood. If you don't shut the door within 30seconds after locking, the door zone is bypass, but the hatch/hood are still protected. Once the door is shut, that zone is re-activated. When entering, you have 30seconds to put the key in->run. The hatch/hood do *NOT* have a 30second delay entry: immediate alarm. Also for those who don't know: use the key to 'mechanically' unlock the drivers door. Turn it again (the same direction), and all doors/hatch unlock. The sensitivity of the shock sensor can be adjusted, but i never bothered.

Well don't feel bad: you can see the rear rocker panels have already started to rust away. Don't give too much credit, as the truck was re-painted (there's overspray on most windows). After taking a second look the [rail] rust is actually all the way to the rear, where the body support is. Rotted through one side of the channel completely. I hope a good weld shop can fix this, without breaking the bank too much. I read that it's advised to spray oil inside the rails: what type of oil are we talking here, and is there anything made specefically for this application? Maybe something in an aerosol? The only '93 FSM I spotted on ebay (printed) was $64+S&H. I don't mind the PDF(actually prefer it) but it's hard to say which sellers are providing exactly that (and in its entirety).

Well, that's where I spotted it. It didn't have a reserve, so I would have been foolish to bid blindly. It was only an hour away so I just bought it outright. I think I paid a little much, now considering the rust (worse than I initially thought) and exhaust leaks. The rust follows the rail to the rear: I'll never be able to fix a hitch to it w/out serious re-enforcement. What's the best place to have this work done at? The last time i needed a frame rail repaired(tow hook pulled lose) I took it to a collision shop, and they did a hell of a weld job. I'll have to get a compression test out of the way this weekend some time.

Thanks for the 'welcome. I'm sure it won't stay that clean forever. It does have its problems: the exhaust needs replaced, and I'm 80% sure the other exhaust leak is from the manifold (ughh...). No service history either, so I can only assume it needs a timing belt also. I could really use a FSM: I might just snag one from eBay. I have a ton to learn about this thing, but I'm happy to say I've bought another Nissan. I'm sure I'll be back with some heavy questions, but I'll do my share of reading first. Cheers, Jamie

My '93 Pathfinder: http://picasaweb.google.com/slip0n0fall/Pathfinder 'Because I miss the S13...: "http://picasaweb.google.com/slip0n0fall/S13_ForSale"

Well, I bit the bullet and bought my first. I can't go any further without mentioning a sweet low key 240 I just sold to get this. I said I wanted more creature comfort. I needed something to take on the winter, not be out of place. For what it's worth, I became very good at driving that car in the winter, lowered even. Very predictable. ANYWAYS, the Pathfinder. I didn't check in *all* the prone rust spots, but the entire frame is good until the pass. side between the rear body support bushing(s) and the rear 'well. About 2-3" rust-through, but only one side of the channel. Otherwise there's some heavy surface rust that will need immediate eradication, but it's not too bad. Engine is underpowered, but doesn't seem to be lacking from its original form. I almost expected this (I also have a '90 Maxima with the SOHC). I'm curious to know if Nissan applied the CONSULT-I protocol to this ECM? It dates to early 91 for other models. Again I haven't really rooted around this thing just yet. Anyone have a hosted FSM PDF? phatg20 is down. PM or email, I'll return the favor in some manner. These are the money shots (from the seller): it's missing the !@)$ing rear head-rests: the one picture is very deceiving. Sorry to disappoint but I don't have any plans to use this to turn into a major rig. I simply need it to work in a more utilitarian fashion (winter, but mostly running to the improvement/supply store). I'm *very* happy to have AC and a 4dr back! :-)