NewPaths

I can't exactly vouch for the price (though they sound reasonable, considering the likely cost of an OE water pump + tensioner), but check out: http://www.midwaypartsteam.com. When I had my other Nissan this was *the* place that I'd order OE parts.... cam-on-bucket shims that normally would have cost me $10 at the local stealerships only ran me around $7. Quite a chunk of change when you consider 16valves. The only thing I think I bought locally was an O2 sensor, but that's only because the counter clerk hooked me up with a discount. Anyways, those look to be good prices.

Oh BTW, 122,xxx on the dial.

Hi Folks, I'm hoping maybe someone has come across this before, before I throw any parts at this beast. On two occasions, when I left from work, the pathfinder hesitated really bad (felt like a constant mis-fire: the engine/exhaust literally sounded like it was under water!) after it had rained that day. Huge drop in power: struggled to get up to speed. It may be actually rain related, or humidity, I'm not sure. The important point is that it happened *immediately* after I began pulling out of the parking spot, so it's not water getting splashed onto the O2 or similar underneith. (unless it's draining down onto something while sitting). I have some really bad exhaust leaks: at least one on the driver-side manifold (at head or collector, not sure) and on the muffler. MPG was calculated last week at 17.7mpg, mostly highway. After (slowly!) getting on the highway it seemed OK. Actually after warmed up it seemed to run better than usual. When I first bought the truck I ran a 1/2 can of seafoam through the brake booster vac line (how I find exhaust leaks!). After the first incident: I pulled codes, nothing. I pulled cap and inspected cap/rotor: they're worn, but no abnormal arcing on the cap. The two plugs I pulled were marsh-mallowy brown (OK). MAF was cleaned with a good non-oiling electrical cleaner after the first incident. Any thoughts? I dont have any experiance diagnosing auto tranny's, but I can tell mine is shifting a little harsh (fluid is still nice and red, not burnt, and an OEM radiator was installed not long ago by prior owner). Can an auto tranny stumble like this? Thanks, Jamie

Personally I keep the shock sensor disabled (middle switch position). After key->out, and locking the doors, you get 30seconds to exit. There are two zones: doors and hatch/hood. If you don't shut the door within 30seconds after locking, the door zone is bypass, but the hatch/hood are still protected. Once the door is shut, that zone is re-activated. When entering, you have 30seconds to put the key in->run. The hatch/hood do *NOT* have a 30second delay entry: immediate alarm. Also for those who don't know: use the key to 'mechanically' unlock the drivers door. Turn it again (the same direction), and all doors/hatch unlock. The sensitivity of the shock sensor can be adjusted, but i never bothered.