gustycrosswinds

Did you ever find the OHM numbers for the injectors? I am having a hard time finding it in the FSM. thanks

yes that is a good point, the inlets could be different sizes. Is there an aftermarket brand you like to go with? I have a 3.0L engine, i want to get something made well and with a good warranty so I don't have to repeat the process if a poor quality part fails early. i can only find oem nissan brand for the 3.3L.

has anyone verified if the fuel regulators on the 3.0 are different psi than the 3.3? i am looking up some parts on rockauto and they say the regulator is good from 1990-2000 for the pathfinder, which would cover both engines?

is it possible to remove the regulator without taking off the intake manifold?

hi i am curious if you have part numbers or suggestions on how to go about getting new vacuum lines. there are some short/molded lines that would seem to be difficult to replace with bulk line. thanks

As an update. I took my pathy back to the guy who put the pulley on wrong when he did the timing. I got it back and checked the ignition timing and it's all lined up again. I am still have idle issues when the pathy is to operating temp. I believe I did not set the TPS correctly when I replaced it last week. I will go back in today and see what I can do. The marks for ign timing start at -5 correct? And increase by 5 each mark, so the 15 degrees BTDC should be the fifth mark? If anyone has a good youtube suggestion on how to set the tps on our rigs, that would be great. I have found youtube to be very helpful when I tackle fixes that I do not fully grasp just from reading the chilton or haynes. I watched a few generic tps adjustment videos and I'll just go from there. Lucky to be borrowing a friend's garage when it is -1 out today.

Hey yall, I went to check my ignition timing when i was under the hood yesterday. I noticed the BTDC marks on the pulley were off to the driver side from the indicator arrow. Far enough off that no marks were lined with the arrow, but close enough that I could still see almost all the marks. What could cause the marks to be that far off? Maybe the engine wasn't fully up to temp? Does the timing belt have anything to do with the ignition timing? I had the timing belt done at a shop a few months ago. Since then, I have had a few rare occurrences where I go to start the engine and the check engine light comes on immediately and knocking sounds like it is coming from the engine. I immediately turn off and attempt to start it a few minutes later and it runs fine like nothing happened. The dizzy cap looks like it is sitting pretty advanced from what I remember setting it when I replaced the dizzy 6 months ago. I've got more smoke than I think I should be having and it smells like it is burning rich. It is seems like it is burning through fuel. I replaced my spark plugs yesterday. The coloration of the plugs looked fine but they all seemed to be wet, which would indicate burning rich, correct? I had the intake manifold off yesterday to replace the injectors with reman ones. Sadly the reman ones looked really beat up from the shipping and some had torn filters. I decided not to install them and will send them back. None of my current injectors seems to be leaking so I'll just leave them alone for another few months or year until I really need to swap them out. I am reading up on checking TDC on #1 spark plug before setting ignition timing but feel a little confused on how to do it if anyone is willing to attach a good youtube link or write out the process. As always, thank you all for your time and experience.

Wow, we can get to our fuel pump without dropping the tank? I have had to help cut out a window to get to fuel pumps before.

I'm looking at an oem clutch kit and it shows the outer dimensions as 9 3/4". All the kits on rock auto show 9 7/8". What's going on here? Thanks for your insights into this, I don't have experience working on clutches.

Hi, OP, what's the torque rating for the bolt holding the distributor, thanks.

AH I see. Thank you for that explanation

Greetings. I am looking to replace my master cylinder. I do most of my shopping on rock auto and they have categorized some of the cylinders based on the rear disc or drum brake. What is going to be the difference of the cylinders if they both will feed either a wheel cylinder or caliper? I will probably go with BECK/ARNLEY 0729761 but that is one of the few that doesn't specify the rear brakes. I have rear drum brakes. Any insight? Thanks!