Jump to content

coaz4x4

Members
  • Posts

    24
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Posts posted by coaz4x4

  1. Just started with this problem 2 days ago. Fuse is for (10 amp):

     

    "Clearance, License, Tail, Side Marker, Illumination lamps, Key-In Switch"

     

    I have checked the back of the fuse panel, all 4 marker lights, the license plate lights, and all associated connections that I could find. I was also told that this might occur with a lot of corrosion in a trailer connector which my pathy doesn't have, nor does it have any evidence of ever having (despite having a hitch).

     

    Whenever a new fuse goes in, as soon as I turn the headlight control to just the marker lights, pop, it's gone.

     

    Any suggestions of where to look and what to diagnose?

     

    Thanks!

  2. leave the lower radiator hose off and flush it with a hose while its running? then just remember when your filling with antifreeze that theres prob about a gallon of water in the block so you'll only need about a gallon of pure antifreeze and then just check the ratio with a tester and adjust accordingly...

     

    but there are drains on the block I've just never used them...

     

     

    My understanding that you only use distilled water in the cooling system to avoid deposits from the minerals etc. in the water from forming??

  3. So I am trying to swap out the fluids (all) on my WD21 (1988)... and the coolant and oil seemed to be the place to start.

     

    I'll definately be getting a dual filter relocation kit... getting that filter out was a b***h!!!

     

    On to the issue... I drained the coolant from the radiator, and from the reservoir... but according to the Haynes manual, I also need to drain it from the block. I am having the hell of a time a) locating the block drain plug and if I have located it, and if I did, there's an issue...

     

    circles.JPG

     

    1) I'm assuming there's not supposed to be a bolt in the blue circle...

    2) I did get the red bolt out, but oil drained out... so I got 'er right back in.

    3) I think the yellow is the drain plug but I am not sure, and it's being a real PITA to get out.

     

    Help??

     

    Here's a couple more pics of the area... the Haynes manual says it's "behind the alternator" so that's where I'm looking!

     

    IMG_1147.JPG

    IMG_1144.JPG

  4. Howdy-

     

    I want to replace the lift supports on the glass for the tailgate for my '88 Pathfinder.

     

    I went to AutoZone, and bought these: http://www.autozone.com/R,APP283772/vehicl...oductDetail.htm

    (I hope that link works...)

     

    The problem is that as I see it, the stock ones are rivited to the brackets that attach to the frame of the liftgate, and I therefore have 0 idea how these are supposed to attach.

     

    Anyone done this replacement and want to shed some light on it for me?

     

    Thanks!!

  5. "I've been doubting this GL5 recommendation in the Haynes manual somewhat. GL5 will destroy brass synchros and generally isn't to be used in a transmission. I see that MT-90 is a GL4, and GL4 gear lubes do not have the additives that tear up brass components, namely the synchros."

     

    See... that is what concerns me...

     

    mzextreme- i am still unable to find anything in this forum by searching... at least anything that addresses the specific question of the fluid in this transmission... could you refer me to one specifically, and tell me what terms you used to search for it?

     

    So... now to find Redline MT-90 for the trans... and when I fill it I need to get the front up on ramps to "overfill" by as much as possible.

  6. On colorado4x4.org I've been told that I can use DextronII/III ATF fluid in the t-case and 80w90 in the diffs...

     

    But:

    "but with the manual tranny there is a SPECIFIC lube you HAVE to USE. if not the syncrononizers in the tranny will explode. i had it happen no kidding. the name of a very common lube is something 90. its not the weight."

  7. I have a '88 WD21 and despite searching etc. cannot seem to get a straight answer...

     

    I am trying to change the transmission, transfer case and differential oils.

     

    I have heard everything from:

    1) I can use 80w90 gear oil in all 3

    2) not using a specific oil in the MANUAL transmission can cause parts to fail.

     

    Parts stores, forum searching and Google-ing have been unsuccessful.

     

    Help please?!

  8. Here's what I gather from the Haynes manual I got (since I don't have the owners manual)...

     

    '88 Pathfinder

    Nissan Specs:

    3-5/8 qt engine oil (10w-30)

    11 quarts coolant (6 coolant, 5 water)

    7-5/8 pint trans (API GL-4 ??)

    2-3/8 qt xfer case (API GL-5??)

    each diff: 2.75-3.125 pint (API GL-5??)

    DOT 3 Brake Fluid

     

    I plan on replacing all of these fluids since I just got it used, and have no idea when they were last changed/serviced. Any suggestions/advice on fluid types or brands?

     

    Two specific questions:

    1) how do I dispose of coolant??

    2) Does the brand of spark plugs and wire make alltogether that much of a difference? (ie. Bosch vs. VatoZone store brand)

     

    Thanks!

  9. I Love the Brilliance of that.... :aok: Oil change kit to now include the bag everything came in....

     

    Dude... that's the most practical idea I've heard for almost any vehicle application!

     

    I have a 88 wd21, and want to be 100% for sure I am getting the right part # on the summit dual filter relocation setup... anyone got that handy?!

  10. Do a search around. TONS of info on Jeep Grand Cherokee coils to lift the rear (even new, only $100 MAX) and RoughCountry (Superlift) Upper control arms with a T-bar crank to lift the front (UCA's are about $160 USD).

     

    Shocks all round, Rancho 5000's, for instance are about $50 a piece, so for a MAX of $460 you've got a lift better than either of those kits. AC's Upper control arms are not nearly as good as Superlift/RoughCountry, and Calmini has serious issues with the bushings in their arms failing prematurely.

     

    I can't seem to find the Superlift or RC UCA's alone for purchase on any site. I assume I would need to contact a dealer about this?

     

    What's a "T-Bar Crank"?

  11. I'd like to get 2-3" mainly to replace shocks/springs etc. because the used one i got is creaky like an old woman!

     

    Here's what I see:

    $665-715 Automotive Customizers (1.5 - 3")

    $750 Pure Nissan // Calmini (3")

     

    Anything else to consider, or parts you would need to buy in addition to a kit when lifting a vehicle like this 2-3"?

     

    A SAS is not the direction I want to go... and is way too much money... so it's ruled out... This is mainly a DD that I want to get a lil higher off the ground.

     

    Thanks for the $.02!!

  12. is it the entire lock or just the internal components that spin...I suspect its not the entire lock assembly but if it is try to hold it and turn the key if it works then the clip that holds the lock in place came off somehow and needs to be replaced...

     

     

    Some of the people on Ronin think it might be the clips etc/ on the inside too because it is just the internal components that go 360, and not the whole unit. I am going to yank the door panel tomorrow hopefully and have a look-see.

  13. Howdy-

     

    Some of y'all may have seen my intro post, but I just got a 88 and am working on her a bit here and a bit there.

     

    My main issues right now are the deck (which I am covering pretty well) and the drivers door lock (where I need help).

     

    The key does a full 360 in the lock, with no effect on the door. The handles (interior and exterior) work a-ok, and so does the indicator pin when i push it down to lock the door.

     

    I assume I am going to need to replace the key cylinder?

     

    Thanks!

  14. Good luck with your new toy! :)

     

    I know the timing belt is a-ok... replaced in the last 15-20k... don't remember exactly off the top of my head.

     

    I am planning on replacing all the fluids... actually found a old owners manual for this a friend had... and amazing how there's a DIY section! Imagine that in a new vehicle...

     

    I did get the deck out quite easily... just going to tackle a) the door locks B) a wiring gremlin in the interior lights and clock c) new deck d) fluids

     

    Thanks for the warm welcomes!

  15. Greetings all!!

     

    I just got my 88 Pathfinder the other day... and figured some Nissan pros like y'all would be a good community to get in on.

     

    I still have to get temp plates, and a title so I can go get emissions, and license plates so I can drive it (not like I didn't tonight... but I don't need the ticket!) and park it on the street.

     

    The Ronin Wheelers site sent me here for some help...

     

    The lock-cylinders in the doors are shot... any tips etc. on removing and replacing them? Running a 2nd key for the doors is not an issue to me... but I heard this might be a part I can get at a local parts store.

     

    I understand it's engine oil capacity is 4.5 quarts? Any other fluids you suggest I change?? (I figure bleeding out the brake fluid, changing the air filter etc. are all good ideas)

     

    Lastly, what's involved in getting the dash apart enough to pull out the deck? I need to replace their aftermarket one b/c they lost the faceplate!!

     

    Thanks! I like to get down to business on the forums... lol

×
×
  • Create New...