Robster4777
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Posts posted by Robster4777
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I am looking into buying a new distributor for my Pathfinder with the 3.3 engine. I really want a genuine Nissan part so I called a dealer to ask about the part as I wanted to make sure it is Genuine NIssan. I was told the part is now manufactured under the Nissan Value Advantage parts. It used to be part #22100-1W601 made by Hitachi. Now the part # is B2100-0W00JNW and supercedes all other part #s. Which means it is made by Nissan but at a cheaper level than from the factory. I liken it to what GM does with AC Delco Gold. So this distributor is not necessarily made by Hitachi anymore. I am hesitant to pay around $350 for a part that isn't like new from the factory. It does still come with a 1 year warranty but that doesn't mean much to me. Do any of you have this part and how has it held up? Thanks!
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2 hours ago, Mrelcocko said:
You can go for a remanufactured from probably AutoZone or Advance Auto. When it comes to electrical you want to go with oem for sure. Cheap aftermarket’s are a waste of money. I bought a cheapo off of eBay for 60$ and it was trash. Couldn’t get it to work from the start. Good luck friend
Sent from my iPhone using TapatalkWouldn't the remanufactured distributors from Autozone or Advance have aftermarket electronics in them?
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17 hours ago, Mrelcocko said:
Sorry I didn’t read the rest of your post. Metal shavings Usually means your distributor bearing is going out. Remove the distributor and see if it spins freely.
Sent from my iPhone using TapatalkThank you so much. I am guessing that just replacing the cam sensor/ignition module at this point would be pointless since I have all those metal pieces in there. I will try and pull out the distributor later but looks like I need the whole thing at this point? If I do replace the whole distributor, any suggestions on what to go with? I am leaning towards a new Nissan OEM unit but if anyone knows of a cheaper alternative that is reliable please chime in. Thanks again.
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I recently had my 1999.5 Pathy quit on me twice at random times. It happened today and afterwards it would crank but not start up. So I had it towed home. I put the code reader on it and had the primary code of P0325-Knock Sensor and a pending code for P0340-Camshaft Sensor. I assume the knock sensor was triggered due to the Cam sensor code? So I took the cap and rotor off the distributor and removed the ignition control module/camshaft sensor and the little silver disk. I cleaned up the disk as it seemed to have some dirt on it within the inner circle. I also cleaned up the ignition module/cam sensor where the silver disk spins through it with electronics cleaner. I put it all back together and it fired right up and seems to run fine. No codes came back up but I haven't driven it anywhere yet. Could it just have been dirt collecting on the little silver disk and module or should I go ahead and replace the ignition module? Also, there seems to be no play in my distributor shaft. Lastly, there were a bunch of little metal fragments laying under the module inside the distributor. No idea where they came from. My Pathy has about 125K miles on it and it is the 3.3 engine. Thanks!
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Chris, I cannot email you without getting delivery failure repeatedly. And I cannot figure out how to DM you on this forum using my phone. I will not have access to a laptop for several days. Can you email me an alternate way to send you my mailing info?
Robert
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I will DM you again
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19 hours ago, CamperDan said:
Hi guys, I might be able to help as I do come across these type of luggage racks at my local Pick A Part Yards in my area here in Las Vegas. Just DM me if your still in need of said parts.
Thanks and you have a DM.
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Same thing just happened to me! I also have the SE roof rack with the fairing like the OP mentioned. Apparently the front passenger side end cap flew off while I was driving. Anyone happen to have an extra one of those I could buy?
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Has anyone done this on a facelifted R50 Pathfinder? I can't seem to find it anywhere. I am thinking of doing the "viper" cut on mine. Thanks.
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I, too, would like to know which brand of spring you used in the rear that sagged so quickly. I am going to buy springs soon and want to avoid what you used.
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On 4/5/2021 at 2:53 PM, AR97Pathfinder said:
I also installed new coil springs on the front and rear. Along with new kyb shocks on the rear and strut on the front. I also got new kyb strut mounts, bellow, bump stop, and bearing. My strut didn’t need the spacer supplied.
Which coil springs did you end up using? Ironman? Can you provide pics of your Pathy so I can see how it sits with the new suspension?
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Just an update in case anyone is helped by this. I ended up having 2 bad fuel injectors. So I replaced them all with Hitachi injectors and all is great now. I also ended up doing the upper plenum coolant delete. The engine runs awesome now.
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Quick update. I ended up ordering a complete rear axle from a 2001 Xterra 4WD with an LSD Diff. and 4.63 gears and 98K miles on it. I removed the third member and swapped it out with my open diff. It was a bit of a job, especially removing and replacing the third members as they are quite heavy. Thankfully I had 2 other sets of hands to help. So far it seems to work great. I haven't really had a chance to test it thoroughly but I plan to soon. Thanks again for all the input!
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Thanks! Do you have a link to the FB group where one was made to fit?
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I saw this roof rack fairing with the 2 lights integrated into it for the 2nd gen Xterra. Anyone know if something like this was made for the R50? I have been looking but no luck.
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Can the back glass be opened with the tire carrier in the closed position?
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I am going to focus on the '01-'02 Frontiers and '00-'02 Xterras. Those would be plenty ideal for my purposes. Maybe a dumb question, but was the LSD a factory option in the 2WD models?
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Thank you all! I had read an old post on Nico club describing the breakaway torque depending on years. Looks like the Xterra from '00-'02 and Frontier from '01-'02 with LSD are my best bet for higher torque. But I will settle for '96-'02 Pathy. Especially since finding exactly what I want will be slim. Much appreciated.
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Looking for a little clarification. I have a 1999.5 4WD automatic Pathfinder with NO LSD in the rear axle. It is an HG46 axle. I am considering swapping the third member with one that has LSD. From what I can tell, my best choices (higher break-away torque) for a donor with LSD are:
Pathfinder '96-'02
Xterra '00-'02
Frontier '01-'02
Of course, these would have to have the HG46 axles as well.
My main question is will the third member from the '01-'02 Frontier work as well? I thought I read something was different. Maybe it is something to do with using the entire axle assembly and the mounting points?
Also, if I get a suitable donor third member with LSD, it is just a straight swap into my axle housing, correct?
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Quick update. I was able to remove the distributor cap and got access to the #2 injector. I did an ohm test on it and the injectors on the opposite bank. Here are the results:
#2 9.2 ohms
#1 12.8 ohms
#3 15.4 ohms
#5 12.6 ohms.
This was done with engine cold and about 72 degrees outside.
I had read somewhere that the readings should be between 10-14 ohms. Is that correct? Is the low reading on #2 verifying anything? Also, should I test them after the car has warmed up as well? Thanks!
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I have been searching but could use more input. I have a 1999.5 Pathfinder with 106K miles. Automatic. I am getting P0302 and at idle it runs rough and seems to misfire. But when I give it gas and get going it seems to run fine. When I pulled the #2 spark plug it was pretty black and seemed fouled out. I replaced it and it kept doing the same thing. Code came on about 50 miles later and spark plug was black again.
History: About a month ago I replaced timing belt, water pump, belts, and hoses. It was running great after that. I was getting an intermittent code P0138, for the Bank 1 Sensor 2 oxygen sensor. I did the extra ground mod but that didn't help.
Also, I had put some fuel cleaner in my gas over 2 fill-ups a few weeks ago just for the heck of it. It was some time after that when I started to notice the rough idle, but with no codes. Then last week I replaced that o2 sensor wondering if that might help. The P0138 code has not come back. Shortly after that I got the P0302 code. It mainly comes on if I let it idle for a while. The only thing I have done is replace the fuel filter.
Spark plugs are NGK and wires, cap and rotor all are Denso and all have around 5K miles on them. It seems to be getting spark to the #2 plug as well.
Also, I am getting the buzzing noise like the one mentioned in this thread:
Humming sound from rear when car is off - Nissan Forum | Nissan Forums (nicoclub.com)
I am leaning towards it being the #2 injector but it seems I am going to have to remove the intake manifold just to check or replace it. Unless there is a way to ohm it out without removing the manifold.
Any advice would be great.
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Howdy all. I'm in eastern Texas and I recently acquired a 99.5 Pathfinder SE 4WD from a close friend who had it since new. It has only 105K miles on it. I just replaced the timing belt and water pump and hoses/belts/radiator/AC compressor and tie rod ends. I also put 255/70/16 ATs on it. I really love it! I am wanting to put on the SF Creations rear 1" spring spacers just to give the old rear springs a little help. Any comments on that would be helpful.
"Genuine" Nissan Distributor Feedback
in 96-2004 R50 Pathfinders
Posted
Thanks. I had rebuilt mine and I may have remedied the issue. Also, can someone explain the "lower shaft bushing" and how to fix if that is worn?