QX4nicate

The more I've been thinking about it I think I'd just like to tint the front side windows a bit. Either enough to match the rear side windows or slightly lighter. Thanks for the info!

Looking to tint my windows as dark as they can legally go. Virginia State Tint Laws: "No sun-shading or tinting films may be applied or affixed to the rear side windows or rear window or windows of any motor vehicle operated on the highways of the Commonwealth that reduce the total light transmittance of such window to less than 35 percent;" "No sun-shading or tinting films may be applied or affixed to the front side windows of any motor vehicle operated on the highways of the Commonwealth that reduce total light transmittance of such window to less than 50 percent;" So, 50% in the front, 35% in the rear. I think I want to do 55% and 40% because I've that the cops around my area like to pull people over if their tint is even questionable. What percentage are the windows tinted at stock from the factory? I imagine that I'd have to do the math. For example if the rear hatch glass was 70% from factory, I could only drop it by 30%, maybe I'm over thinking it but a 50% tint film applied over a 70% colored glass tint window would give me 20%? What's the best film/kit to use for less than $200?

'02 QX4 - Completely stock bose system I know the right way to do this is to get a new head unit, amp, and subs that all work well together. But that's boring... And I don't want to spend the money on it right now. I plan to in the future however. Anyway for right now, I was looking at the stock rear amp a few minutes ago and it got me wondering if I could tap off the connector RR/LR speaker outputs somehow and take it into the +- inputs of the subs? I'm a fire alarm technician and I know with a fire alarm speaker system you can't do what we call a "T-tap" of the speaker wires so I imagine this works the same with car audio as it's the same concept. So instead would I tap off the rear speakers' input terminals to 'continue the circuit'? Do they have output terminals? Found all the info I need as far as what terminal/wire does what, in the factory service manual. Just need a better understanding of how it all works. I've never installed subs before, nor an amp. I know wattage and resistance plays a role in what I'm trying to do but I don't know what's expected of these two dudes. Again this would just be temporary but if it works may be long term temporary. I'm really not looking to spend more than $50 on rigging this up. I'd like to do this as non-destructively as possible so that if it sucks I can undo it. Thanks!

3.5L V6 with 4WD I just got down replacing my exhaust from the headers back and replaced both downstream oxygen sensors when I had it off the ground with the wheels off I started it up to hear the new exhaust, it started doing this and grinded loudly when put back in park, I shut it off fast with the RPMs really high (maybe 5k not redlined) After putting the wheels back on and putting it on the ground it no longer makes the grinding sound. The RPMs still take off when I shift into park or neutral. Really hope I didn't strip some splines or something but that's outside of my knowledge. The throttle was sticking in drive but I fixed that with some WD40 on the throttle cable. TPS sensor? IAC sensor? MAF sensor? Transmission problem? ECU not liking the new O2 sensors? What's going on??? Thanks!

Thank you! If I'm not doing the alignment myself, should I bring the camber bolts with me when I get one done? Or should I install them before I take it in? I'm capable of getting it pretty close to aligned I just suck at it.

Look, I hate doing stupid stuff to my vehicle, but I'm 20, I don't make much money, and yeah, I can only work with what I've got. When I first bought my '02 QX4 I went out and ordered a 2" spacer lift/leveling set from SF creations and 31.5" tires... All of this has been just sitting at my house for the past few months due to a lack of time. I took the running boards off, so I've got some more clearance for the new tires. I've installed new ball joints, new sway bar links, and will be installing new inner and outer tie rods. Manual hubs will be the next purchase once I've got $100 freed up to spend. From what I read when I first bought the vehicle and did the research 3" spacers are my max without hurting the CVs and brake lines? So am I good to throw the 2" spacers on without causing any issues? Thanks!