pbdm4k

Lots of rust on all the brake lines on the Pathy... I was thinking of replacing all the lines with stainless steel braided... Would this be ok? Or do I need to replace them all with hard lines? I fear the cost of this work...

Any idea how I could go about buying those and how much they might be?

I ordered the Pacesetter headers for my 95 auto. Its about 100 cheaper than Thorley headers.

Called a few body shops and so far I haven't found anyone willing to box in my frame for me. They claim its too labour intensive and they don't want to touch it. Anyone in Toronto can point me to a shop that's capable of doing these repairs? Thanks!

I'll give it another oil change this weekend. I was using 5w30 syntec, so I guess all the detergents knocked everything loose. The oil actually drips out black so it was like the oil was never changed. On my other cars, new oil drips transparent like its supposed to. One day with a new oil change on the Pathfinder and it was dripping black. I'll try using some 10w40. Would that castrol high mileage oil make a difference? I was told to throw in a treatment of bardhal or that engine treatment stuff for the next oil change too, let everything in the engine clean itself out.

But I ain't got no skeelz to bild it... So if anyone has a Smittybuilt that they don;t want

I will probably be going for the Calmini setup myself once I sort out all the rust and exhaust issues on my pathfinder, but what sells me on the Calmini setup is the completeness of the kit compared to other kits. It's all the hardware you get that goes into the kit. Not to mention the build quality of the components looks great. (Although their shocks remind me of Rancho RS5000 knock offs).

I believe Thorley and PaceSetter both make difference headers for auto and manual transmissions.

Not suprising about its thickness now that you mention it. I will call around some shops tomorrow for qoutes... After punching the floorboard beneath the pedals, there's a bunch of rust falling from underneath the car, so I guess I need to have the floor board cut out and new steel welded in as well... If any Torontonians have any recommended shops, it would be much appreciated. First time I've had a car where I needed to repair the frame and the floor boards... o.O

I think I will go the patch job route to maintain the lowest cost possible in fixing the truck. Does boxing in the frame add considerable weight to the vehicle? I may have some potential rot going on in the front of the frame as well, but haven't had time to verify if the rust has eaten through yet.

So the common rust spots above the rear tire have rusted through, i was going to sand it down today, but as I was chipping away the rust, it went clean through the frame. The top and bottom still feel solid, but now i have rust holes on the sides, the passenger side being the worst with about a 7" long hole. I guess boxing up the frame is the way to go for a quick/cheap fix? What if I wanted to go all out and have the frame replaced with a tubular one? Or can I do a combination of the two with a semi tubular frame? (Tube frame rear).

My 95 XE pathy was given to me with an exhaust leak, and after some inspection under the truck, the catback is fairly new, but everything else is quite rusted. The front of the cat is rusted and cracked before the flange. Due to the rust and the location of the crack, the leak isn't weldable. The dealership qouted me $800CDN retail for the replacement cat. ($700 for dealer pricing). The private mechanic said $250CDN for his no name brand cat. (Came with the warning that it may or may not pass emissions). Then Magnaflow came to save the day. ~$100CDN for a replacement cat from their "Direct-Fit" product line. Supposedly a bolt on replacement with no welding or cutting necessary. My supplier just got it yesterday and I'll be picking it up on Saturday. Will follow up with the ease of installation. For reference, Bosal and Goerlich both make replacement pipes from the headers back. So downpipe, Y pipe, mid pipe, cat, and muffler back. Goerlich being the slightly cheaper alternative. I plan on replacing the cat on Saturday and seeing how bad the rest of the pipes are, (with the Y pipe being the biggest concern as I like having my floor pan intact.) Expect to pay 170 for the Goerlich downpipe and y pipe with gaskets. Expect to pay 240 for the Bosal downpipe and y pipe with gaskets. For any canucks that need exhaust parts, feel free to IM me and I can help you order these. My supplier seems to carry them in stock. I know this isn't really a review yet, but its just a precursor to all the parts that are available. I will follow up with the installation after Saturday.

So I guess the only way to get a Tubular bumper is to find old stock somewhere or second hand? They still make tubular bumpers for Jeep though!

Got pics of the fronts and rear?

As the topic says, my front and rear bumpers are rusted through so I'm wondering if any of you know where I can get replacements. Tubular bumpers would be cool provided they aren't super expensive.

Well, don't think I'll have time to really get under there and look until probably the weekend again. I'll try to give the sending unit a whirl, and maybe a filter relocation kit will come in handy so i dont have oil dripping down all over the exhaust everytime i do an oil change. *crosses fingers* I hope I can find that stupid leak...

Is engine oil collecting on the oil pan a particular sign for any of these?

I performed the oil change last Sunday I believe so it's already been over a week. It kept slowly leaking and I can see oil collecting on the bottom of the oil pan. I retighened the oil filter last night, and this morning was a new puddle of oil. Should I replace the oil pan gasket? Where is the rear main seal located? I'm not afraid of dropping the oil pan as I've done this before on my other cars, but I have no clue what or where the rear main seal is.

About a week after I picked up the Pathfinder, I decided to give it an oil change. So i drained out all the gunky stuff that just looked downright horrendous and in went a few bottles of Castrol Syntec (I know, its probably too expensive to be using on a pathfinder this old, but its the only oil I had sitting in the garage for my other cars.) Unluckily for me, I couldn't fit the new filter in (clearance issues). I tried stealing the filters from my brother's 240sx, but I couldn't make it fit. So I stuck the old one back in as a for the meantime kinda deal. A day later, I verified with Nissan that the 240sx filter was the same, so I drained the oil, and forced the 240 filter into the crevice and managed to screw it on. (Yes I oiled the seal first!). Anyways, I poured the "old" oil back in (I used a clean bucket), and the engine still seems to be leaking engine oil. The drain plug is secured on and just last night I tightened up the filter with an oil filter wrench. This morning low and behold I still have an oil leak! Any ideas where this is coming from?? Could the seal around the oil filter be damaged?