PathyGig12
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Posts posted by PathyGig12
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1 hour ago, flyingpathy said:
Hey no worries!
Right on. I'm at about 20" hub to fender on the front and 21.5" hub to fender on the back. But that's mostly empty in the back so a full load would probably level it out.
On your front though, do you ever experience hard drops when you're front wheels get air? As in the strut extends quickly and makes a thud? Is that a problem these lifts face? Harsh top-out is the term I meant.
Oh definitely. The top-outs happen a few times a week for me, but you can usually tell when it’s going to happen so you can go slow.
It’s pretty widely accepted that topping out doesn’t damage anything anyway, and if it really bothered me I would just put some limiting straps on to stop the issue entirely. But I’m not super concerned with it, just an annoying clunk every once in a while.
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On 5/11/2020 at 3:40 PM, flyingpathy said:
I like the sounds of that. I read a bit of your last post and those AC coils look promising. How long did it take for yours to be delivered?
Also, what height does your body sit at now? I'm currently at 36" ground to trim in the back. 34" in the front.
Hey man sorry for the delay, I measured the heights for you.
Right now my front is:
21” from the hub to the fender
36” from the fender to the ground
And my rear is:
19.5” from hub to fender
34.5” from fender to ground
Just like I thought, I’ve got a negative rake of about 1.5” because of all the weight in the rear. Once the 9449s go in, I should be back to about even, maybe a bit of positive rake
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Took off the running boards, I’m loving the “visual lift” that it gives the truck. I never used them anyway, when I go for the roof rack I stand on the tire. I’ll take my chances with rocker damage, I don’t think I’ll be doing any intense rock crawling anyway
It also shaved off 40 lbs or so, which helps take some load off the rear springs
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1 hour ago, Slartibartfast said:
Yeah, it seems like the front end shouldn't be doing much with the hubs unlocked. I've found that my hubs do have a little bit of drag when they're unlocked, which could still be trying to turn stuff, but yeah, that shouldn't be transferring enough energy to do much. I'd be tempted to test it with the transfer unplugged, to rule out the computer doing stupid things, but I don't know the ATX14A well enough to guess at how it would behave without power.
I like the camera idea, hopefully that'll give you a better idea of what you're up against.
Very interesting suggestion about unplugging the transfer case, never thought of that. But you’re right, it’s super complex and I’m pretty sure it wouldn’t like it
The thing is, I know for a fact that the computer is doing stupid things because it’s confused about the lack of front shaft motion when the hubs are unlocked. But the way I see it, the vibration is significant enough to not be coming from the transfer case, so my theory is that it’s intermittently trying to engage the front and that’s why you get vibration as a pulse as opposed to the steady one which happens when the hubs are locked. The idea is if I can stop the vibration, the computers confusion will not be noticeable because it will still try to connect the front in error but that state won’t have any discernible difference. I’ve just accepted at this point that the hubs do not jive well with the transfer case
Once I mount the camera I should know for sure whether my theory is true because you’ll see the front start moving even with the hubs unlocked
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9 hours ago, Slartibartfast said:
Don't remember if I asked before (may have been on a different thread), did you check the mounts for the front diff? Someone on here had those go bad and the diff would **** around when it was loaded, putting the U joint at a weird angle, which caused a vibration. If your bushings are completely flogged, the diff flopping around could explain the noise coming and going. Hopefully it's something like that rather than something going out in the transfer case. If you haven't yet, you might just do a drain/fill on that to see if it changes anything. It's a completely different beast of course, but the manual transfer in my '95 quit sticking in 4HI after I changed the fluid.
Looks better with the bumper shell back on!
Thanks for the tip man, I haven’t checked the mounts yet, but I have a camera that I’ll try mounting close to the front diff to see if I can spot any movement while driving. But I’m wondering, if it’s coming from the front diff mounts, why would the vibration be pulsing when the hubs are unlocked? The front diff should be completely idle right?
I changed both the transfer case and front diff fluids a couple weeks ago to rule out a lube issue
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So I got tired of the “unfinished” look on the rear and ended up cutting the stock bumper cover to fit over the new bumper and tire carrier. Then I went and painted it charcoal metallic along with the fender flares. I think it came out pretty nice overall. The bumper could use a little more refinement to the cut outs, but it’s getting there.
I haven’t managed to swap in the 9449s yet, which is a bummer. I gave it a go in my garage but wasn’t able to get the frame high enough to give myself clearance for dropping the axle, so I decided to wait until I have access to a two post lift again. In the mean time I’ll just lighten up the back to reduce sag lol.
Next I’ll be trying to figure out this vibration issue. I’ve narrowed it down to the front drive shaft, so I plan to take off the shaft entirely to see what happens, and if the vibration disappears then I’ll bring it to a drivetrain specialist to balance it and check run out and Ujoints
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3 hours ago, flyingpathy said:
Hey I was wondering about the warn hubs. Some local shops said if warn fits definitely go for that. The price will be worth it offroad apparently. Which models did you use? Any tips for them? They're next on my list.
The ones that fit the R50 are the model 29091, I believe
Only thing to watch out for is the center bore on your wheels, some models i think the warns wouldn’t fit through the centers even though they fit properly on the axle shafts. Your wheels are different than mine so it’s definition something to check first. Don’t know much about those wheels so I’ll let someone else chime in if they do
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1 hour ago, flyingpathy said:
I like the sounds of that. I read a bit of your last post and those AC coils look promising. How long did it take for yours to be delivered?
Also, what height does your body sit at now? I'm currently at 36" ground to trim in the back. 34" in the front.
I’ll measure it for you whenever I have a free second
The wait time was about a week I think?
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I would recommend swapping out the front coils for ACs. I have little to no rake with mine.
I guarantee you can resell the ARB coils on eBay but it probably won’t be the fastest sell. Might be better off looking for someone on here who wants them, or maybe some of the other Nissan r50 communities?
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1 hour ago, davydavidoff said:
What did you go with for the roof basket? Looking to add one with the stock crossbars, and would hate to order one that doesn't fit right.
This is the roof basket I went with, just a basic cheap eBay one. One thing worth mentioning is that I don’t know if this rack will fit on top of the OEM crossbars. I removed the rear crossbar so that the rack could be mounted flush to the roof. The front crossbar I was able to keep on there by pushing it all the way forward
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Excellent advise above
I would also add the front Lokka to your list of mods since you mention you have access to cheap mechanics to do the swap for you. I’ve heard great things from those that have them installed, and I’m looking to add one to mine soon.
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4 hours ago, Gmar11 said:
Got my LR9447 and AC spring lift installed. Bilstein shocks in the rear, SC creation control arm brace. KYG struts in the front. 285/75r16 tires.
Sent from my iPhone using TapatalkWow!
Rig looks incredible. I love the meaty rubber, did you need wheel spacers to keep from rubbing?
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Yeah I’d honestly prefer to switch in the opposite direction. Like swapping in a manual transfer case from the AUTO one that my LE came with. It’s an absolute nightmare when it comes to manual hubs and there’s sensors and electronics everywhere that could go wrong and leave you screwed
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7 hours ago, RainGoat said:
The handful of Pathy owners I know up here in the PNW were all deemed essential so we’ve not only been working but have all the kiddos at home plus the wife making ToDo lists as she’s stuck at home.Ah gotcha. Makes sense.
My office got shut down for the virus so I’ve had lots of free time fortunately.
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Fantastic work man. I’m glad I’m not the only one pimping the pathfinder during the quarantine. I’ve been surprised by the lack on activity on the forum lately, considering the circumstances.
Great work on the tire carrier, love the clean look but I was always too nervous to do any drilling. The wrap job also looks very clean, I’m looking forward to seeing the finished product.
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4 hours ago, JBGEARHEAD91 said:
Installed OME HD + Fluerys 1" spacer up front and LR9449 in the rear.
Looks great. I’m upgrading to the 9449s this week as well because the 9447s are sagging a bit too much under the weight I have in the rear. Can’t wait to see how they look
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37 minutes ago, SASQX4TCH said:
RED ROCK...Looking good bud
Thanks man. Yes sir that’s red rock. Stopped there while visiting the folks in Vegas
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Now for the bad news. So far I’ve still had no luck fixing the vibration issue
I’ve narrowed it down to the 4 wheel drive system or front drivetrain because it changes depending on a bunch of things so I know it can’t be bearings or tires. Sometimes it will be completely smooth at all speeds, but I can’t find any particular method of achieving this on purpose, it just seems to happen sometimes when I’ve been on the freeway for a while. With the hubs unlocked, sometimes it becomes smooth after 5 minutes above 80mph, but sometimes it doesn’t. With the hubs LOCKED sometimes it’s smooth in auto, and sometimes it’s smooth in 2wd but never both. There is always vibration in 4wd though, so maybe it’s a U-joint in the front drivetrain? Or something in the transfer case or diff maybe?
Another weird thing is that I got incredibly good gas mileage on my way through the mountains with the hubs LOCKED rather than UNLOCKED, which makes no sense. For anyone who knows I-70, I didn’t even use 1/16th of a tank from Georgetown to denver doing 60-70 the whole way, which normally takes closer to 1/4 tank. Left me baffled.
So yeah, my best guess is that my trucks 4WD system is flipping out for some reason with the manual hubs. At one point i had been driving on the highway for a few hours with the hubs unlocked and it started snowing so I got out and locked the hubs. Then I tried to flip it into 4H and the “4WD” light was flashing on the dash and I had lots of vibration and it seemed to be down on power, but when I shut the truck off and then turned it back on, I was able to use 4H with no issues at all and the power was back. Almost like it had reset something
If anyone knows more about the mechanics and logic of the 4WD system, please let me know what might be happening here because the vibration has me worried that something is being worn down and will eventually fail
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Roof basket just went on. I also relocated the LED pods to the back so that they would work better, and I’m debating moving the main light bar so that it’s mounted to the rack itself rather than leaving it in front of the rack on the OEM crossbar. I’ll probably get to it eventually but it’s not a priority. First I need to finish hiding the LED pod wires properly and find a cleaner solution for mounting the tools.
I also ordered some generic eBay traction boards and a set of the 9449 springs because the extra weight in the back has basically negated my lift at this point. Hopefully the extra stiffness will help. Once I have the cash, I’ll spring for some bilsteins to compete the rear -
34 minutes ago, anthonyerco said:
Site won’t let me upload anything. File size too large. Bummer, I’m excited about them gem I just picked up. Have big plans for her! Woo!
You have to do it through a photo hosting site. I use Imgur
Once it’s uploaded to imgur, you find the option for “copy link”, then on the forum there’s an option at the bottom of your post to insert other media from URL, post the link there and it should work
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Cool, hopefully they work out well for you
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You could get new MOOG stock replacement springs which will be less saggy than the worn out factory springs.
But for serious towing you’ll have to go with heavier springs or airbags. I’m wondering if you could maybe use Land Rover 9449 springs with one or two coils cut. They are heavy duty springs so they would be perfect for the weight, and once they are cut they theoretically wouldn’t make the rear ride too high. Maybe something to look into. The website to get them would be LRdirect, last time I checked a set of 9449s were about 90 bucks shipped to your door, which is pretty solid when you have international shipping involved
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The rake you get all depends on weight. I have no rake with that exact set up since I keep a bunch of stuff in the back plus a tire carrier. But completely empty I think I had an inch or so of rake, maybe a bit more. It looked very natural though
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Random picture of your R50
in 96-2004 R50 Pathfinders
Posted
Now that’s a fantastic pic!