AlwaysWrenching

Totally stock tires. New transmission filter and fluid. The torque converter locks and unlocks so much it's annoying while driving. Usually a bit of hard acceleration and it stops for a while. It did get better after changing the transmission fluid and filter, but then after about 1700 miles started acting up again. There was a lot of sludge in the transmission. 227000 miles.

During normal short drives the transmission works fine. However on long drives the torque converter starts locking and unlocking at around 60-70 mph. Over 80 mph it's fine. I'm thinking it the torque converter control solenoid. Is there any test for it or just replace it and see?

The blower motor for the heat and AC does not work on any setting. There is power to both wires going to the motor. However when the motor is hooked up directly - one wire +, one -. It spins just fine. Did the resistor fail?

That's what I've been reading and the 3.3 in the Pathfinder I have now barely uses 1/4 of a quart over 3000. Minimal enough I don't have to add any between changes and it's at 220,000 miles.

I bought a complete set from TRQ. They are made in Taiwan. All 4 control arms with new bushing for like $130. So far they have held up great.

I have a 1998 Pathfinder that has been great. So much that my GF wants one. I love the manual transfer case on my 1998. I'm debating on finding a 3.5 Pathfinder with a manual transfer case but I'm not familiar with the 3.5 at all. Are there any disadvantages to the 3.5? They 3.3 is very easy to service and isn't too tight in the engine bay. The truck will rarely see freeway driving so lots of acceleration at 80 isn't as important as torque, durability, and service-ability.

Of topic but how did you repair your sunroof? Any chance you found a gasket you could make work? Mines currently sealed with RV tape. I didn't want to caulk it because the motor is still good.

I ordered these struts from Summit Auto. Hopefully they are good quality. I didn't want to lift it since it's my daily driver and I have a rusty 1988 Bronco that's going to get 35s and have all the sway bars removed. I also ordered AC Delco progressive rate rear coils. Rear shocks are new, just NAPA shocks. Going to upgrade to Bilstiens if I need to. This thing is a little beast. Took it down a 4 wheeler trail today.

Does KYB make a loaded strut? Strut, spring, etc? The truck has 217,000 and I'm planning on replacing the springs as well.

I saw Gabriel also makes a pre-loaded strut? Anyone tried these?

I was able to get to it by first putting the spark plug socket on and then attaching everything. I had an inspection mirror and light so I could see in there.

Did you guys remove the radiator? Was it necessary to remove the AC pump?

I purchased a timing belt and water pump kit from NAPA. The serpentine belt and tensioner appear to be in good condition. Are there any other parts I will want to replace while I'm in there? Any special tools needed?

Yeah I can't see how I'm going to break the Milemarkers with mild off-roading and stock 235 size tires.

Thanks guys. Ordered up the Milemarkers. Should be here next Thursday.

Has anyone used these? They are super affordable if the quality is good. https://www.carparts.com/details/Nissan/Pathfinder/Replacement/Locking_Hub/2004/LE/REPN287001.html?TID=gglpla&origin=pla&utm_source=google&utm_medium=pla&utm_campaign=221983653&gclsrc=aw.ds&&gclid=Cj0KCQjw09HzBRDrARIsAG60GP9DufuXWbbP_naZba81acezqrNkHPAduYknkkYlYb_x_BVbkalOYU8aAgI1EALw_wcB

Bushing can be totally shot. I was installing poly bushings and damaged one upper control arms removing the old ones.

What method did you use to remove the old bushings? I don't have a press and tried to cut the bushing the then use a punch and hammer. Most came out ok. But I damaged the end of one of my control arms with the saw. Not terribly. Its questionably usable, but that was far below what I was aiming for. Any tips on getting the bushings out?

Are these any good? Thinking of putting on new front struts while I have to do the controlling arm bushings. https://www.1aauto.com/nissan-pathfinder-infiniti-qx4-front-and-rear-complete-strut-assembly-and-shock-absorber-kit-4-piece-set/i/1assp01312?f=1095012&y=1997&utm_campaign=gb_csv_br&utm_content=SSP&gclid=Cj0KCQiAwP3yBRCkARIsAABGiPp7t1t14ZddXvWAD0KpRF1MrgsPaiBdDTpqkoUUGdYdNe5yqoInm6UaAii1EALw_wcB

The bushings are worn out on the rear suspension of my Pathfinder. I have found a kit that has all new arm with bushings for around $125. This seems quicker and easier but am wondering if it's not too difficult if the poly-urethane bushings are worth the time to install?

Thanks a bunch. It seemed really odd. Well I guess it gave me an excuse to change the fluid in the front diff, t-case and transmission.

Between 2HI and 4HI the transfer shifts smoothly and appears to work fine. However I can shift into 4LO but when shifting out of 4LO I have to shut the truck off otherwise the transfer case will shift from 4LO in to neutral but will not shift out of neutral without shutting off the engine. If I attempt to shift the transfer case out of neutral with the vehicle running the transfer case will grind. I had the transmission in neutral per owners manual. The fluid is brand new in the front diff, trans and t-case.

Unfortunately there's a large chunk missing out of the sunroof seal. Seams no one makes a gasket for them. I can buy the whole sunroof used but it's still a used gasket so that doesn't seem like a great solution.

My sunroof is leaking and has a big chunk missing out of the gasket. I have been having a hell of a time finding the seal for a 1997 Pathfinder sunroof. Finding all other model years. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Is a slight amount of play normal? I took them apart and it appears they had just been done. They do not make any noise when driving down the road.