MiltonWATech99
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Posts posted by MiltonWATech99
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Thank you all for the input! Assuming the next stimulus checks are sent out sometime soon, this alternator will be the first thing I purchase. I’m satisfied with the feedback I’m hearing.
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*Duplicate post*
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I installed one in my 2002 Xterra and it has been great. Charges well at idle and has handled winching with no issues. My buddy also installed one in his 2015 X.
Does the 14.8 volts treat your electrical system well or is the voltage less than that for your application?
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I installed one in my 2002 Xterra and it has been great. Charges well at idle and has handled winching with no issues. My buddy also installed one in his 2015 X.
Does the 14.8 volts treat your electrical system well or is the voltage less than that for your application?
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Hello everyone. I haven’t posted on this forum in quite some time as I’ve resorted to the WD21 Facebook group for a while.
Im wondering if anyone on here has any experience with the Rugged Rocks high output alternator for the WD21. I’m looking into getting one if another stimulus check drops. It’s quite pricey at $470 but features 130 amps of output current at idle with a max voltage of 14.8 volts and max current of 180-200 amps. I will upgrade all my wiring to 2/0 AWG and install a 200 amp ANL fuse on the charging wire.
Would I be the first to install one of these? This or the Mean Green Alternator? Opinions welcome!
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Looks like it. You should get a thermostat and necessary gasket sets while you’re down that far in the engine.
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A couple other things I would do while in there is clean/replace the engine air filter and clean the throttle body plate. If you notice your throttle cable is loose, tighten that up too. I noticed a small boost in performance doing all of that.
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Are these kind of repairs worth it?
I don't have a leakdown tester. Is there some other way to figure that out?
Definitely worth it in my opinion. This is all preventative maintenance. It’s like doing oil changes and tune-ups. One thing you could potentially do is feed some compressed air into the spark plug hole of each cylinder, then turn the engine over with a breaker bar to hear if any air leaks out the intake or exhaust when those valves are CLOSED. I haven’t had to do it, but I would suggest buying a leak down tester for a future investment.
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Cylinders 3 and 5 seem to be low on compression if those are your final numbers. I would do a leak down test on those two cylinders as well as cylinder 6 to see where the blow by comes from (intake or exhaust). If you decide to go through with this project, a new thermostat, water pump, and timing belt are a must. I’d also replace the front main and cam seals while you’re in there. Good luck!
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Hello again everyone,
I did a little research on ways to install an oil pressure gauge and came across either installing an oil filter sandwich plate, replacing the factory pressure sender with an aftermarket sensor, or installing the sensor elsewhere on the block. I heard there were three or four other threads to tap into on the VG30E block with 1/8” BSPT threads like the oil pressure sender for the instrument cluster. Anyone know where these thread holes are? Would it be easier to install a sandwich plate?
Thanks!
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Have fun. You have to relieve tension on the torsion bars before you can drop the LCA. The anchor arm underneath the second crossmember needs to be loosened, but the locking nut on top needs to be loosened first. All 19 mm (3/4”) bolts.
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I pulled the hardware off the donor. However, that side bracket with the fasteners on it wasn’t present on the donor. It had two sets of nuts and bolts mounted to the frame without any sort of assembly on the sides. I’ll have to pull up a photo later on of what I’m talking about because once again it’s very hard to explain in words.
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I think I've got that same hitch on mine, I can get pictures/measurements of the mount locations if you'd like.
That would be sweet!
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Was the little liscence plate bracket caked in rust? I just pulled my bumper all apart and most of the screws and bolts twisted off, I have to replace 3/4 of them, be nice to see how yours turned out. I had to do some bondo as well, along where the caps are bolted on
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No doubt it was. It took three coats of rust neutralizer to finally eat away at the rust. Two coats of primer and base coat, and three coats of primer later and she’s ready to go on.
Now for the hitch. It’s ready, but where should the guide holes be drilled for the screws to the frame? My frame might be different than the ‘92 SE (same year and model as my Pathy) I pulled it off of because I was able to access the nuts from above the bolts. On my frame, it’s closed so I can only drill into it without fitting a nut in there. It’s hard to describe in words but I’ll have to find a photo to describe the process.
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On today’s Pathy adventure, I’m finally getting around to restoring a bumper (in decent condition other than a dent I tried patching) and a trailer hitch I pulled off a junkyard Pathfinder. Two coats of rust neutralizer and some sandpaper later, the first coats of primer are going on. Next up, gloss black.
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So after driving around a little bit longer with some hesitation from the engine, I felt a little *pop* then she started running perfect. No smoke, no anything. I don’t know what happened but that popping sound changed everything.
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I haven’t had any serious issues with the fuel system until I started driving it to school regularly. It would go back and forth between running normally and misfiring on one or more cylinders after going up a big hill. Then when I let it cool down and restart it after school let’s out, it’s fine again. I also had to get towed twice a couple years back due to the fuel pump dying out before running out of gas (not even down to a quarter tank both times). Since then I’ve been too lazy to rip up the stripped screws holding the rear hatch carpet down to get to the access cover for the fuel sending unit.
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Two days later and I’m having a small issue. I’ve noticed my Pathfinder shakes again on idle for a little bit until it gets up to operating temperature, and white smoke comes spewing out the tailpipe under acceleration. Sometimes it wants to stall as soon as I start it unless I give it gas. Is this normal during the “break-in” period for the new injectors?
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Everything’s back together so I cranked her over and she didn’t start...
It took a few tries but fuel finally got to the new injectors and she was only running with my foot on the gas. The idle was bouncing around so much and as soon as I took my foot off the gas it would die.
Then it happened. I felt the engine smooth out and I took my foot off the gas to hear a clean, smooth idle. This is with a new filter, regulator, and injectors. The fuel pump is yet to go in. The fact that it’s running this smooth now has me excited for the new fuel pump to go in.
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I got my new set of Standard Motor Products fuel injectors and a fuel pressure regulator in the mail (c/o Rock Auto, thanks to the person that showed me the site) last night, so I decided to swap everything in while I had the day off. I also had a WIX fuel filter laying around that I swapped in. Haven’t started her up yet but I’m highly optimistic.
In the next couple days, barring the motivation is there, I’ll be doing the fuel pump also.
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Nice! The electric fan upgrade was a major improvement as far as trust goes but I feel like I actually have less power than with the thermal clutch. I should clarify, I have less power when the AC is on due to the extra draw on the alternator and possibly a little bit more power when everything is off.
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My mechanical fan clutch was worn to the point where there was no resistance and it would constantly turn regardless of temperature. A little bit more of a voltage draw with this fan? Yes. But I feel like the long-term benefits outweigh the cons.
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Ignition timing is set just the way I want it and I can certainly tell a difference from before the job! It’s not super noticeable, but the high end is making a bit more power now that the cams are timed, the ignition is timed, and the fan clutch deleted.
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Noise is gone too?
I don’t hear anything out of the ordinary so yes for right now.
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Swapped in the stock fuel pressure regulator and she runs like a dream! The ignition timing needs to be fine-tuned with a light but other than that, it looks like everything is in good working order!
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Rugged Rocks Alternator
in 90-95 WD21 Pathfinders
Posted
Bump! Steven with Rugged Rocks is currently building my new 180 amp alternator. Can’t wait! I’ve already upgraded my battery charging wire, ground wires, and added a body to alternator ground. The top voltage with a stock alternator went up from 14.1 to 14.3 volts just by doing that. At this point, the new alternator will be plug-and-play.