threetoedsloth
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Posts posted by threetoedsloth
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3 hours ago, hawairish said:
Kudos for giving it a go. However, it looks like you're using standard hex nuts without lock washers and flat washers, except on the head-side of the bolt. The nut will likely loosen in that scenario, causing potential for the bolt to fall out because of its upward orientation. Looks like you're also missing a washer on the front spacer.
You won't be able to fix the bolt orientation without completely loosening the spacers from the chassis, but you can address the other hardware issue without much effort.
- Bad: bolt - lock washer - flat washer - <steel> - nut
- Better: bolt - flat washer - <steel> - flat washer - lock washer - thread locker - nut
Even the "better" is bare minimum for this application. I don't even recommend standard nuts here. This is a high-torque (>110 ft lbs) application; your entire suspension, steering, and front axle are tied to this and will be twisting this every time you drive. Play it safe.
Yes, I’m aware of the bolt situation, an oversight on my part. I think Ive decided to just go back through with some loctite and dab a bit on each one vs swapping for nylon locknuts. Although, none of the subframe nuts are locknuts or had any kind of locking device.... just loads of torque. I torqued the heck out of all the bolts I installed, so I’m not worried about it for the time being.
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This is my 2.5” SFD, I think it was a success!
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Any reason I couldn’t use 2.5”x2.5” hitch steel?
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Thanks for your help, man!
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I can’t wait to see what you guys come up with. I’m quite interested in the bumper bracket, so I’ll be watching for that. And I may very well be interested in some strut spacers in the future.
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8 hours ago, hawairish said:
I've done a 2.5" SFD, with 1.5" strut spacers and OME MD springs and a set of camber bolts. Shouldn't have any issues with your setup.
The 2" strut spacers give a little north of 2" lift because of the geometry of the suspension. Not sure it's 2.5", though, but perhaps somewhere in between.
As long as you can weld, you can make the Accord link work. Just keep in mind that's a very custom approach. I'd still pony up for a Woodward link. If you ever increase to a larger SFD, you can just re-use the joints and swap in a longer shaft.
Notably, if you're not in any rush to do the SFD, perhaps hold out a little longer? An SFD kit is in the works.
I can weld fairly well, and I have the means to whack parts down when the need arises. I even thought about adding bigger strut spacers and rear springs later, maybe going an .5”-1” over my SFD, like 3” or so.
Will you guys be coming out with a bumper as well? I’ve been looking at the Coastal kit and really like the way it looks, but wouldn’t mind keeping my money in America
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22 hours ago, Citron said:
One other note. That play can also be caused by bad ball joints. Have someone wiggle the tire while you watch the ball joints. If they don't have slack, then it is wheel bearings. Just an extra check to make sure you have the right parts on hand.
I’ll be taking a look at those when I pack the bearings. It’s got 150K miles and I bet they’re getting pretty worn out. I also have been avoiding an alignment because I’d like to get as much of the front end rebuilt as possible so as not to waste my money on aligning worn out parts
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I’m thinking about doing a 2.5” SFD(based on the previous comments about a 2” SFD being a little tricky) just to bring things back into alignment. I already have the 2”-2.5” SFcreation spacers. Do you think there’d be any issue doing the 2.5” SFD without touching the spacers up front? The strut spacers are only 2” but give 2.5” of lift somehow. And I’m assuming I really wouldn’t be lifting anything since I’m not planning on touching the springs or strut spacers.
I’m also planning on pulling an accord steering link sometime soon and Im hoping that’ll work with only 2.5” of lift. I’m fully expecting to trim it down since it works with the higher lifts. I’m on a super budget..
One of my concerns is that I’m dropping the subframe 2.5” and I’ve only lifted my struts and springs 2”, do you guys think that’ll be an issue? Has anybody done anything similar?
I’m just wondering if I need to wait on the SFD until I can get some lift springs or fab the strut spacers at 2.5”+
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I jacked it up this evening and gave it the prescribed test, there is definitely some slack in the bearings.... looks like I’ll be working on the front-end this weekend! Thanks for the suggestion, man
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I’ve got a sound coming from the front end while turning at speed. I just noticed this happening again this afternoon, and it only happened when I was turning going about 40mph. It doesn’t happen at slower speeds or even all the time. The sound could be described almost like a tire rubbing or a compressor motor for about 5 seconds, or the duration of the turn. I also felt something at the pedal like it was pushing it back up.
Any ideas?
I also changed the brake pads about 6 months ago and I’ve got what feels like warped rotors(the brakes kinda pulse when I’m braking, doesn’t matter what speed)
Thanks!
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Hey, thanks for the replies, guys! I think I assumed because I was running the spacers I’d need that 2” puck for the bags to bump on but turns out I don’t. I pulled them out yesterday and I’ve got almost exactly 1/2” of space above my bags. I’ll probably swap the spacers around when i get a chance but for now this appears to be working just fine. These OEM-weight coils are just a joke, I see heavier ones in my future when I get some more dough to drop on them.
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They’re new OE springs, so basically worthless. Haha... I wish I’d bought some heavier ones. I’ll probably end up pulling the spacers out and measuring my gap, then shaving down my spacers if needed. The bags were riding up a bit inside the coils, so I’ll probably swap those around as well.
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On 8/19/2015 at 8:45 PM, hawairish said:
Got a set installed on duke90's truck over the weekend.
You can sorta see where the OE bumpstop was removed and replaced with a 2"H x 3"W body spacer puck and 1/8" steel disc. Sorry I didn't get any close-ups of the disc, but it's got a flat head socket bolt that recesses into a countersink to produce a flat surface. If I end up going this route, I'll get some pics that.
We noticed that the bags had a tendency to lift about an inch after riding at 5psi. I left enough slack in the lines just in case this happened. I suppose more air would prevent this?
We ended up plumbing them into a single valve, located in the front of the driver's side rear wheel well. No chance of a tire hitting it, easily within reach. Lines were routed up the control arm. I'll try to get a pic of the location.
Hey @hawairish, sorry to dig up an old post, but this is the only example of a spring/spacer/air lift I’ve seen on the internet. I recently made some spacers like what you have pictured here to replace the bump stops to compensate for my coil spacers, but the bags sit right up against the bump spacer. It’s my understanding that air lift recommends a 1/2” gap but mine is basically riding on the new bumps all the time. Was there a gap between these when everything got reassembled?
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I just did a spacer lift and new struts on my rig and just knew it’d fix the clunk I was experiencing, but it didn’t. I swapped the sway bar bushings and it fixed the issue. Also they’re super cheap, like $8.50-$12
2" sfd possibilities?'s
in 96-2004 R50 Pathfinders
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I stressed about the steering link for a long time, but it ended up being one of the easiest parts of the whole process. I just didn’t have money for the Woodward steering link, but I didn’t think mine turned out too bad at all.