tthomasd614
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Posts posted by tthomasd614
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I haven’t touched the distributor. Thanks!Sounds like the timing is off... Take it apart and count the teeth. Do not mess with the distributor unless you removed it or adjusted it previously otherwise. If it is in the factory location it will be the belt causing the issue.
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So I am pretty sure my timing is off. I put it all back together and took it for a spin and all was good but it was still leaking coolant. Took it ALL apart again to find that the bypass hose is leaking. So I buttoned it all back together and it starts and idles fine, but when I give it gas it has no power won’t get any higher than 2000 rpms and makes a bumping noise. Is it the timing? Am I slightly off? That’s all I can think it it would be. Any ideas?
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Thanks for all the tips and the help guys! So, I tackled it today and found that there was indeed
a crack in the bypass hose! I’m now relieved knowing the crack was there and that it is what was causing the leak. Now I can put it all back together and be happy that it will (hopefully) not leak anymore!
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Thanks for the tip! Anything I can do to make things easier is much appreciated. So I tried to do it from the top but had no way of getting to the hose Clamps, they were both turned inward. So I just disassembled all parts all way to the timing belt. Do you know how I can keep the cams from moving so I can take them off so I can remove the rear timing cover to access the hose just like in the picture you posted?Put some silicone spray or something on the hose so it slides on easier. I also put mine in boiling water to make it more pliable. Make sure the aluminum ends on the pipes are clean so no chance of leaks with the new hose.
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perfect, thank you! I’ll let ya know how it goesYep. This is what it looks like with all covers off:
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is the hose that connects to the metal elbow where the top radiator hose connects to?If you look down directly beside the distributor, you can see the hose. It is possible to change it without removing everything again. Just remove the bracket the ac belt and pulley are on. You can then access both clamps. It's tight but doable.
Honestly it is hard to fskc up the waterpump install on these, so you probably did it right, and it is just the bypass hose.
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thanks for the help guys! I am going to try it this way. Hopefully this is the cause. I don’t mind getting all deep into it again but I really prefer not tooIf you look down directly beside the distributor, you can see the hose. It is possible to change it without removing everything again. Just remove the bracket the ac belt and pulley are on. You can then access both clamps. It's tight but doable.
Honestly it is hard to fskc up the waterpump install on these, so you probably did it right, and it is just the bypass hose.
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Yes, I scraped it off with a razor blade. A friend said that I needed to use silicone as well as the regular gasket. I’m just trying to figure out if it could be leaking anywhere else. 5523pathfinder mentioned a coolant bypass hose but I don’t even know what that is
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Okay, so I purchased my 96 pathy a month ago knowing it was leaking coolant. I replaced the thermostat, housing, and gasket for the first try. It was still leaking from the timing cover right at the crankshaft. So I did the whole water pump timing belt replacement and it is still leaking coolant. It leaks a drop once every ten seconds or so from the same spot...I don’t know what to do. Did the gasket not get on right, did I not tighten it enough? I’m all out of ideas and any help would be very much appreciated.
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Not to nitpick, but you have an obvious oil leak which you should fix before buttoning this back up. There is oil on the timing belt, which will drastically reduce it's life. The belt is like 30 bucks and the cam/crank seals are even cheaper.
It should be 40 teeth between camshaft marks, and 43 betweek drivers side camshaft, and the crank marks.
Haha yes I am going to fix the oil leak too. Just wanted to get everything all planned and ready before I start putting it all back together. Thanks for looking out and for the info!
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also how many teeth should I count to make sure its right?The single dimples have matching spots on the timing cover that are almost close enough to time by--but you still want to count teeth rather than trusting that.
And yes, you can use that nut. I recommend using a breaker bar, solid wrench, or similar, instead of a ratchet, so you're in full control of the cam and it can't jump forward on you.
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Okay thanks for understanding! Yes, I actually decided to find a service manual and indeed the dimples are timing. Whew. I am however having a hard time finding the one to match on the crankshaft. I will supply a picture and maybe someone could see what I can’t. Thanks for your help everyone!
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Great! Thanks guys! Since I’m so neurotic and just want to be sure? I can use the socket on the nut turning it CW to match up the botches? I have circled the nut im referring to in yellow in the picture. Sorry for all the questions, I just want to make sure everything is gold when I put it all together!Yeah, you can just move the crank and cams with a socket. When I did my TB, I replaced the cam seals, and ended up making an F-shaped tool to hold the cam sprockets in place while I loosened and re-torqued the bolts. This tool turned out to be great for lining up the marks as well.
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As you can see it is pretty much at TDC, what do I use to rotate th cams and crank? Do I use a wratchet attached the bolt on th front?The engine is a six cylinder and a piston goes to the top once every 360 degrees, one revolution. So 360/60=60 degrees If you turn the engine such that it is about 60 degrees from either top dead center or bottom dead center none of the pistons will be able to touch the valves. The pistons will be effectively about half way down in the cylinder. If you could post a picture of the crank snout we might be able to help you with this positioning.
Your cams appear to be about 180 degrees from the timing mark so I believe the crank is close to top dead center.
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The engine is a six cylinder and a piston goes to the top once every 360 degrees, one revolution. So 360/60=60 degrees If you turn the engine such that it is about 60 degrees from either top dead center or bottom dead center none of the pistons will be able to touch the valves. The pistons will be effectively about half way down in the cylinder. If you could post a picture of the crank snout we might be able to help you with this positioning.
Your cams appear to be about 180 degrees from the timing mark so I believe the crank is close to top dead center.
Okay I will post a picture when I get home. Thanks for willing to help!
A friend whom has done mechanic work said that I basically need to start from scratch and rotate the crank to top dead center, he said there are marks that show me when it’s there and then rotate 45 degrees in earthed direction. After that rotate the cams so that that the little marks are lined up. After than moved crank back to top dead center and then install the belt. It seems way to simple for me. Lol maybe I just tend to make things more difficult than they need to be. Does this procedure sound right?
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Okay, how do I do that? Thanks for the helpYou are going to have to move the crank such that the pistons are not at top dead center. Then rotate the cams to the timing position, then bring the crank to TDC. DO NOT FORCE anything and you should be OK. BTW replace the timing belt anytime you are in this deep. My $0.02
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thats what I’m hoping for, but since th sprockets moved I don’t know what to do to move them back so I can align the right way. They moved about 2 inches each sideIf you lined everything back up the way you took it off then you should be fine. How far did the sprockets turn when you relieved tension?
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Okay everyone, need a little guidance here. I am doing a water pump replacement and checked the timing belt which is awesome and doesn’t need replaced. Anyway, I marked the belt as well as the pulleys(not sure what the actual name is) where the Teeth need to be matched up for when I put the belt back on. However, I forgot to make sure it was top dead center and when I loosened the tension the pulleys(again not sure if they are called that) moved and now I don’t know how to make sure the lines I made on the belt and the pulleys match. The first picture is the left and second picture the right. You can see where I marked both in white. Can anyone help me from here? I’m at a loss.
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Okay everyone, need a little guidance here. I am doing a water pump replacement and checked the timing belt which is awesome and doesn’t need replaced. Anyway, I marked the belt as well as the pulleys(not sure what the actual name is) where the Teeth need to be matched up for when I put the belt back on. However, I forgot to make sure it was top dead center and when I loosened the tension the pulleys(again not sure if they are called that) moved and now I don’t know how to make sure the lines I made on the belt and the pulleys match. The first picture is the left and second picture the right. You can see where I marked both in white. Can anyone help me from here? I’m at a loss.
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Hey everyone, picked up my first pathy about a month ago and haven’t done much with it yet. Was leaking coolant when I purchased but couldn’t pass it up for only $600!
Anyway, it’s a 96 3.3l 5spd 4wd, any tips as tricks regarding this is definitely welcome! I am currently in the process of replacing water pump and timing belt so hopefully it goes smoothly!
Peace!
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Awesome! Thanks for the pictures! I’ll get to it this weekend and let ya know! Any advice you can give me from here until I’m finished?Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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im sorry. It’s a 96It’s a 95 pathfinder 5spd manual 3.3l 4wd
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Awesome! Thanks for the help!
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It’s a 95 pathfinder 5spd manual 3.3l 4wdI'll look at my truck in a few and let ya know. What year is yours?
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Rookie Mistake....
in 96-2004 R50 Pathfinders
Posted
I was off a tooth. Tore it apart today and put it all back together. No leaks and runs great. Thanks for all the help! Now, on to the next problem. Need to replace steering rack. Anybody have experience with that?
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