morgant
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Posts posted by morgant
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When I originally bought my '93 Pathfinder, I did some research into the possibility of eventually putting a strong front bumper on it since the bumper was already dented in. Recently, some idiot pulled out in front of me in the rain and so--long story short--I need to replace the bumper, a headlight & indicator, and a fender, so might as well ask about a heavy duty bumper.
My notes show that the ARB winch compatible bull bar for the Hardbody, which still seems to be available from a couple suppliers, can be mounted to the WD21 Pathfinder. I've found some threads that say the brackets need to be modified, but this thread seems to say that the Hardbody is about a 1.5" body lift over the Pathfinder. Could one get a 2" body lift kit from 4x4parts.com, trim 1/4" off each side of the body blocks (reducing them to 1.5"), and bolt the ARB bumper straight on without modification? I plan on sticking with 31" tires (currently running KO2s) and don't particularly need a body lift, but I don't have fabrication skills (plus that would leave the bumper intact if anyone wanted to swap it back to a Hardbody at some point in the future).
I probably won't bother, but am curious and do have some insurance money available, so it's not totally off the table.
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On 2/11/2019 at 12:57 AM, Slartibartfast said:
This picture (from a listing for a full cylinder) shows the one Phillips screw holding the switch in place (top right image, it's down under where the wires are soldered on when it's mounted on the truck). The switch itself looks like this, if that helps. I remember I thought I was in for a fight on mine until I moved the wires and discovered the screw behind them. It took me longer to route the wiring back through than it did to install the switch. Hopefully Nissan didn't do something weird on yours.
Well, don't I feel sheepish. Not sure how I missed that! I'll definitely just swap the switch while try to make a nice harness for the EC110.
On 2/11/2019 at 12:57 AM, Slartibartfast said:I think the Binky episode is this one. Doesn't look like they say which parts they used, though they do show what look like Sumitomo connectors around the 29 minute mark (and mention earlier that the harness they're using does use Sumitomo plugs, among others). They didn't mention the sourcing, unfortunately. Last ditch you could use the pigtail from your old starter switch and cut the others you need off a loom at the wreckers, and then splice those to the pigtails for the Easyguard. Yes, they're splices, but they're not splices into the original harness, so they can be unplugged if something goes wrong.
Now, that was a satisfying wiring video. As a Land Rover guy, I already lnew all too much of that wiring harness history. Anyway, I'll definitely be searching local wrecker yards for connectors if I can't find them elsewhere.
On 2/11/2019 at 12:57 AM, Slartibartfast said:Now that I'm thinking about it, though, why do you need to tap into the brake and clutch switches in the first place? The truck's already got a starter interlock on the clutch, between the ignition switch and the starter, which should work the same with the Easyguard as it does with the factory switch. It should even have a rocker switch on the dash to turn the interlock off if needed (I think all years had that?). I'd just loop those wires at the box so it thinks the clutch is always depressed and leave the factory interlock in place. Otherwise you'd have to butcher the factory harness to bypass the old interlock, or you'd have two interlocks on the same circuit to try and troubleshoot later and a switch on the dash that doesn't do anything. And what does it need a brake pedal feed for? Unless it needs that signal for programming the keys or something, I'd just loop that one, too. Otherwise you'd have to make some kind of tee harness off one of the switches on the pedal (one for the brake lights and one to cancel the cruise control), and then I'd be concerned about the circuits cross-talking or frying something if the box is expecting a switched ground instead of switched +, or isn't expecting switched power at all.
The EC110 normally needs to tap into the brake switch to ensure the push to start button doesn't work if your foot isn't on the brake as a safety mechanism. I'm moving mine over to the clutch pedal for the same reason, but—you're absolutely right—it needs to go after the interlock switch. I use my interlock switch fairly frequently, esp. off road, so I need to retain that. It actually should make it easier to wire in and keeps the wiring harness shorter.
Thanks again for all the advice, it's much appreciated!
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11 minutes ago, Slartibartfast said:
I replaced just the switch on my '93. It can be replaced pretty easily without removing the whole lock cylinder. The switch itself doesn't hold the weight of the keys, so that shouldn't be a problem. Couple of screws, plug and play. If you have to remove the whole cylinder, you have to drill out the fasteners. The physical lock also controls the steering lock, so if you remove the physical lock to fit the Easyguard, you'll also lose the steering lock.
My '93 doesn't seem to have the screws on the switch, otherwise I would've just done that long ago. I don't mind drilling out the screws and removing/replacing the whole lock cylinder, I've done it before on my Land Rover Series III. I'm also well aware that I'd lose the steering lock.
11 minutes ago, Slartibartfast said:I know the guys behind Project Binky managed to track down some Sumitomo connector components for wiring their bonkers Mini (their harness had an odd mix of plugs on it), so it's probably out there somewhere. I'd be less worried about wiring splices (provided they were done right) than I would be about something going wrong with the $40 push-and-pray keyless start button kit.
Well, I'll have to watch the Project Blinky episodes then and see if I can catch where they tracked down connectors.
As for the $40 keyless start system failing, I'm with you. At $40, I don't mind buying another (or a couple), but that's also part of the reason that I want to wire it in a non-destructive way. That said, I've been living with an intermittent ignition cylinder for a couple years, so I'm fairly used to the knowledge that one day it just may not start anymore (today actually happened to be that day).
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A further look at the connectors shows some of them differ slightly from the ones I can easily see in the steering column wiring. That said, there was one that I was able to see said "S02FL", which was enough to get me to the following documentation of Series 58 connectors: http://prd.sws.co.jp/components/series/pdf/jp/58.pdf. So, that's a start, but Mouser doesn't have much in the way of the Series 58 connectors, so it may be extremely difficult to actually find them.
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The ignition cylinder in my '93 WD21 Pathfinder has been on its way out for a while now—I have to pull on & fiddle with the ignition wiring bundle for the key to make appropriate contact to start it—and, not wanting the weight of keys to continue to wear out some random replacement, I've decided to try an EASYGUARD EC110 push start button.
The wiring looks straightforward and I've traced it all out (with the exception of the door locks), but I'm a bit OCD and really dislike splicing/tapping wires, if at all possible (esp. when attempting to _resolve_ wiring issues.) I'd like to make a mini harness that taps into appropriate connections by plugging in between them. Fortunately, it came with a 6-pin connector that should fit for the ignition/starter harness, but I'm looking for the 2-pin connectors used for the brake & clutch pedal switches, steering lock, etc. Does anyone know what they're called, what part number they are, or where I might be able to get one?
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I appreciate the advice. In my state, I was required to remove the non-functional fog lamps and their housings to pass inspection. So, reusing the now-unused wiring harnesses shouldn't be a problem since it'd be legal for me to install driving lamps & a wiring harness anyway. The driving lamps are entirely different from the fog lamps and installed in a different location, so I'm not worried.
Edit: And, to clarify—as I understand it—driving lights should function the opposite of fog lamps: turn on with high beams and turn off with low beams; which is what I'm going for.
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Several months later, I have took a few minutes to do some testing and confirmed that connecting the PU (purple) wire from the factory fog lamp switch to aforementioned wires has the following effects:
- P/L has power whenever the lights are on (position A, B, or C), allowing the fog lamps to be turned on in any mode
- R/B has power only when the lights are on in position B (low beam), automatically switching off the fog lamp switch in position C (high beams)
I'll definitely be wiring to R/W so that my driving lamps only come on with the high beams (using the factory fog lamp wiring).
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Finally got back to this today with the wiring diagram from the Haynes manual (ugh) and the multimeter. I couldn't get good access with the probes on my multimeter (need narrower ones) to test the light switch wiring with the connector inserted & ignition on in various positions, so I just figured out which wires are paired when the light switch is off and positions A (parking lights), B (head lights), and C (high beams).
My notes from this session are:
- The two wires with vampire bites are R/B & P/L.
- There's a disconnected P wire that I found tiny print on saying "PARK LIGHT". My guess (very much a guess) is that the P parking light wire was connected to the P/L wire since the pair of connections that the two pink wires (incl. P/L) connect to are joined when the light switch is in position A (parking lights) with the ignition off.
- The disconnected PU wire from the factory fog lights switch in the center console was probably (again, guessing) connected to the R/B wire. That one isn't specifically joined when the light switch is in position B (head lights) with the ignition off, but it's pair connector (R/G, IIRC) is.
- I believe the R/W wire was connected when the light switch was in position C (high beam) with the ignition off, so I believe it is likely the one to connect to if I want to switch the factory fog lamps switch to engage only when high beams are on, instead of low beams (the factory setup).
As to the rally lamps type, they are driving lights and I only intend to use them on back roads or off road, but I'd naturally prefer them be paired with my high beams anyway.
I need to get some more PU wire of the same gauge as the remaining wire was clearly clipped short, plus I prefer the positap connectors over the regular crimp tap connectors, so I'll report back once I've picked those up and tested.
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TL;DR: Where is the purple wire from the factory fog lamp switch supposed to connect in the steering column wiring harness?
I bought my 93 WD21 SE-V6 with the front bumper dented and one of the stock fog lamps smashed, both lamps were non-functional. I had a pair of Hella Rallye 3000s from another vehicle that I decided to wire up and they match the 55W rating of the factory Bosche fog lamps, so figured Id use the stock fog lamp wiring until I can find a replacement for the unobtainable Bosche lamp.
The wiring all looked good, traced it all back to the relay, battery, and the switch in the center console. Wired the pair of Rallye 3000s, but the switch didnt light up and no relay click. No popped fuse. Lights on, high beams off.
Tracing the wiring into the steering column, the purple wire to the switch isnt connected to anything in the steering column. Theres a pink wire that has an inline terminal, but its not connected to anything (though it does look like the purple wire could have pulled out of it). Since there are no wiring diagrams for the factory fog lamps, I figured Id ask you all to see if anyone has the stock SE-V6 fog lamps and where your purple wire is connected in the steering column wiring harness.
Any assistance would be appreciated!
Update: Oh, andyesI did read through the Fog lights dont work thread.
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I tore one apart a while back and filmed what was inside, if you're interested.
They're actually pretty simple inside.Thanks, that is even better than I expected! Fascinating!
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the OEM shocks had some sort of electrically adjustable damping system. I drove one years ago and in "sport" mode there was way less body roll when powering through a corner. I'm pretty sure they are no longer available but it would be cool to track some down.
Thanks, I was wondering if that was the case since I didnt see any air plumbing or anything of the sort. I doubt their available, but Ill do some searching.
Ill probably end up air-bagging it as Ive got a fair amount of weight in the back w/camping & recovery gear, but would be fun to have the sport suspension as well.
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How did the adjustable suspension on the 1993 Pathfinder SE work? I have the button, but it is non functional, and theres some wiring clipped in the rear that looks like it may have been related. Mine seems to have Bilstien shocks, but I dont see anything else that obviously affects the rear suspension. Was it airbagged or something else?
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Okay, in addition to the bars the connect to the electronic lock actuator and the electronic upper glass release (the lock mechanism seems to push a tab to pull the latter, when turned full right), the the lock mechanism seems to actually connect to a bar directly down to the tailgate latch locking bits. This bar seems to be what I'm missing, so I'll search around for one.
Thanks again for the descriptions!
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That's good to know how it's supposed to work. I'll use that knowledge to see if I can figure out how it might have worked and will take pictures to illustrate if I can't.
I certainly could be missing parts. Unfortunately, I'm in the northeast and there really aren't any Pathfinders of this vintage around anywhere anymore (this one came from California), so I likely won't be able to find parts except online.
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I found the replacement trunk lock for a reasonable price, but looking at the part and the mechanisms in the tailgate, it looks like it only clips to the release for the upper glass. I guess I'll need to sort out the electric lock mechanisms too, but for now I'll leave and opening in whatever panel I make so I can continue to manually operate both mechanisms.
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Thanks, that makes sense. Guess I'll have to source a new lock mechanism (still have the tumbler, so can pop that in to keep the keying the same).
Morgan
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I recently bought a '93 WD21 SE-V6 that's running well, but has a couple minor interior issues. The PO removed the rear tail/lift gate panel due to a broken lock, but they didn't keep the panel and such. Currently I lock & unlock the tailgate manually by reaching in and pulls the levers/bars (the electronic lock doesn't seem to work). I intend to add a panel, but I haven't been able to find any photos of what the interior panel looks like and whether it had any latches or handles for manually locking/unlocking. Can anyone post photos of the stock panel and let me know if manual locking/unlocking was done only with the external key?
Hardbody ARB Bumper on WD21 Pathfinder
in 90-95 WD21 Pathfinders
Posted
Thanks all, this is definitely making my decision harder, in a good way! Glad to hear the body lift has made working on the engine easier, though I must admit that I haven't been doing much work on the truck myself of late. Roughly how long did the body lift take?