[Rumble and Shake in 4WD?]

Since the bushings we're allowing so much movement, it may have worn out your slip joint on the front driveshaft. Check it for excessive play, mainly radially.

Any idea what would define excessive? I’ll check the FSM for possible specs, since I’ve gotten so good at taking the darn thing off at this point.

The slip joint does slide easily, I gave it some fresh grease when I rebuilt it. By radially, do you mean as in it pivots similar to a ball joint in the joint?

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Rumble and Shake in 4WD?]

Alright guys, results are in. Everything’s back together and torqued, everything’s solid and good to go.

Took it for a test drive, all was well.

Moment of truth, I put it in 4WD...

While the issue is not nearly as bad as it was, it’s still there. I’m aware that 4WD isn’t healthy on the drivetrain on paved dry roads, but it was my best way to test. Subtle vibrations at 25-35mph, vibrations get a tad worse at 40mph, and kind of come off and on anywhere above that. Again, nothing nearly as severe as before, but still there.

Unfortunately, I’m still stuck in 4WD as soon as I pull the shifter into gear. The only way to get out is to roll back a couple inches in reverse.

If this is as good as it’ll get, I can live with it, those bushings DID need replaced... but I’m a bit sad that the issue is still there because I feel it’ll cause those bushings to wear faster.

Not sure what to do.

[Rumble and Shake in 4WD?]

Got the new bushings in.

Now to see if I can get this bolt out...

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Rumble and Shake in 4WD?]

I couldn't find any info in the FSM either. Standard spec for a 14mm bolt, 8.8 grade, with dry threads is around 100ft/lbs. 10.9 grade is around 148 dry. I put antisieze on everything under my truck because its always wet or salted here so its around 75ft-100ft/lbs

Awesome thanks!

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Rumble and Shake in 4WD?]

 

Got it all undone, these are in hilariously bad shape. I can move them easily with my hands, and they’re torn and hollow on some. My press tool didn’t work unfortunately, so I’m going to have to try and press them at a shop tomorrow.

 

Does anyone know the torque specs for the bolts to the mounts? I couldn’t find them in the FSM for some reason. I want to be careful not to under/over torque them, since I already snapped a bolt in the past.

[Rumble and Shake in 4WD?]

Not really. Without a CV the hub is open. In a pinch you can, but shove a rag and latex glove over it. I had to come down from the Sierra Buttes after grenading a CV that way but its definitely not recommended.

Totally forgot about the back of the hub. Probably best not to then. I’ll be getting the bushing removal kit tomorrow and cranking this out. I’ll let you guys know if it goes well.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Rumble and Shake in 4WD?]

Think its safe to drop the diff and disconnect the driveshaft, and remove the CV axles, and still drive it? Can’t be any different than 2WD. Thinking about getting it out from under there, but if I dont finish in time, I’ll still need to drive it.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Rumble and Shake in 4WD?]

Just turns out I can’t read. Whew.

60mm total length, and yeah the ID for the inner sleeve is roughly 14.5mm

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Rumble and Shake in 4WD?]

I'm sure you have the correct bushing but the sleeve ID should be 14.3mm (clearance hole for the OEM 14mm bolt) with an overall length of 60mm.

Oh man... really hoping my caliper is inaccurate...

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[2001 Pathy wont shift into 4wd]

Like jjonez said, your best bet first is to get under the transfer-case and get to the linkage. I’d check it for any damage or obvious bends. If you can, disconnect the linkage from the shifting lever, and try and see if you still can’t move the lever without it being attached to the transfer case. If it can’t move, might be something locked up with the assembly that holds the shifting lever and connects to the linkage. I have a 2001 pathy as well, so if you have any questions or need pictures of what I’m talking about, I’ll be happy to help.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Rumble and Shake in 4WD?]

Should be around 48mm, but curious. You have a set of calipers? Mine measured under just under 48mm but they probably distorted during removal so its hard to say.

40mm outer sleeve length.

50mm total length.

48mm OD.

43mm ID.

23mm inner sleeve OD.

13mm inner sleeve ID.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Rumble and Shake in 4WD?]

Are those the Febest NAB-332? That design might actually simplify things if you were to add PU. But...being new and with limited movement, hopefully theyll last several years as-is.

They sure are. One year warranty too, but they seem rather solid.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Rumble and Shake in 4WD?]

Look what just arrived. Does anyone need measurements off the brand new ones? Also, looks like these don’t actually have holes that go all the way through them. They’re solid about 10mm in.

 

[Rumble and Shake in 4WD?]

Fire and sawzall has been my approach on both my trucks. I also drill a bunch of holes in the rubber to break it up a little to help with the shearing process. Only precaution is try to get the sawzall blade flat on the outer shell to avoid cutting into the bracket. You can often chisel/punch the sleeve out before having to completely cut through the shell, too.

Will do. I’m expecting to see the bushings at my doorstep any day now.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Rumble and Shake in 4WD?]

It would be much easier to burn out the rubber with a torch and then sawzall the sleeve. I spent more time setting up the mount to use the shop press than it would have been to torch it and cut the sleeve.

Not a bad idea actually. I was going to try and use a control arm bushing tool that we use at work. It’s basically like a massive C-Clamp with various adapters that fit the different diameters of bushings, ranging from small to several inches.

I might do that, just torch them and cut them out, then just press the new ones in. The new ones go in easier than the old came out I assume?

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Rumble and Shake in 4WD?]

 

 

If using the old bushings, you could always cut the thinnest sections of the rubber to make them a hole I suppose. I am thinking I might try this with my old mounts after I replace them, just as an experiment.

 

Y’all are making me wish I waited to order the new bushings cause someone’s going to find a better solution haha. Not looking forward to pressing those suckers out.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Rumble and Shake in 4WD?]

What about taking the polyurethane (3M window weld or equivalent) and just squeezing it into the voids in the rubber bushing? If you use plastic wrap, or something that will release from the PU after it has set, you could fill the voids flush to the edge of the steel mount, which would give you a much stiffer bushing, and repair your old bushings without having to press out or cut out the old ones and figure out a mold for replacements.

 

A lot of people do this with transmission mounts, which works pretty well apparently.

I have never heard of this being done, but it does make sense. I would assume the rubber on the original bushing would have to be in rather decent condition, since the new PU would just stick to it, and not exactly weld together in a sense. I would be a bit more inclined to do it with new bushings to see if they last longer that way.

[Rumble and Shake in 4WD?]

Sucks, but might not be as bad as it seems. I think you said it was crossthreaded with an impact, still not the end of the world. Get the bracket out of the way, carefully apply some heat to the surrounding area (aluminium heats and cools quicker than the steel bolt), even a small propane plumbing torch might work (I have a little map/oxy torch for small jobs like this to give pinpoint heat in tight places), get a good bite with vice grips and back that sucker out. Remember, lefty loosey! Lol. Then I'd find a tight fitting drill bit to GENTLY ream the hole clean and rethread it. A little bit of well-placed heat can go a long way.

Definitely. Drilling and tapping is my last resort, going to try to weld a nut onto the bolt and do as you said to remove it. As long as the bolt cross-threaded clean into the mount, it should be possible to unscrew it with the right amount of heat and torque.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Rumble and Shake in 4WD?]

Maybe you can weld the inside of a nut onto it?

This is what I’m going to try to do. When I get it off, I should have at least a quarter inch of the bolt to mess around with, and hopefully get a nut onto it. Heat it up, and twist very slowly.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Rumble and Shake in 4WD?]

 

And what's with that hole? Bolt defect...looks too old for a recent drilling.

That’s what I was thinking. There’s like a small hole as if there were some sort of air bubble in the bolt there. Doesn’t go very deep. Plus it’s not in the center.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Rumble and Shake in 4WD?]

What side of the diff did the bolt snap on?

 

Driver’s side.

 

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Valve Train Noise w/ Castrol EDGE 10w30]

My engine’s been super weird and loving Castrol 5W-40. I used to have an annoying start-up rattle from the valve train, and when I started using 5W-40, it’s been nice and smooth. Probably going to do a really good engine flush soon and switch back to the recommended oil and see how it goes.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Rumble and Shake in 4WD?]

I’m pretty sure it’s cross-threaded to hell and won’t back out. I attempted that sort of thing with an impact drill, with a removal screw and it wasn’t going to budge. Drilling a fresh hole is going to be my best bet sadly.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Oil leak.]

Thanks! I’ll have a look in the morning. I’m hoping it’s something simple(obviously)....but if it is a crankshaft seal, how big a job is that?

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Not too bad. Removing the belt and getting to the seal isn’t too hard, but the spacial constraints make it a bit difficult to pull the crank pulley off easily. There might be a seal directly behind the pulley, which if you’re lucky, that’s all you’ll need to pull out and replace. Otherwise, and I’ll have to check the manual to be sure, there might be something to get ahold of behind the crank sprocket for timing.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Oil leak.]

This is all I could find in the FSM on the oil routing for the VG33E.

​Obviously some of these can't really be accessed from the outside, but I would definitely try and hit the underside of the engine with some degreaser, and see if you can watch for the leak to form. Most of the channels for oil pathways are internal for the engine, and there shouldn't be anywhere aside from the engine seals that you'd be able to see the leak.

I'd check around the crankshaft seal, oil filter mount and seal, valve cover seals, and timing seals. Again, if you can clean those areas first, you'll save yourself some trouble because oil's going to just collect where it can be absorbed (aka. dirt).