QuasarDecimari

U Joints are brand new, and I’ve had the balance checked, so the driveshaft is balanced, but it definitely makes sense that the slip joint could be worn. I’ll check it tomorrow morning for sure. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Any idea what would define excessive? I’ll check the FSM for possible specs, since I’ve gotten so good at taking the darn thing off at this point. The slip joint does slide easily, I gave it some fresh grease when I rebuilt it. By radially, do you mean as in it pivots similar to a ball joint in the joint? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Alright guys, results are in. Everything’s back together and torqued, everything’s solid and good to go. Took it for a test drive, all was well. Moment of truth, I put it in 4WD... While the issue is not nearly as bad as it was, it’s still there. I’m aware that 4WD isn’t healthy on the drivetrain on paved dry roads, but it was my best way to test. Subtle vibrations at 25-35mph, vibrations get a tad worse at 40mph, and kind of come off and on anywhere above that. Again, nothing nearly as severe as before, but still there. Unfortunately, I’m still stuck in 4WD as soon as I pull the shifter into gear. The only way to get out is to roll back a couple inches in reverse. If this is as good as it’ll get, I can live with it, those bushings DID need replaced... but I’m a bit sad that the issue is still there because I feel it’ll cause those bushings to wear faster. Not sure what to do.

Got the new bushings in. Now to see if I can get this bolt out... Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Awesome thanks! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Got it all undone, these are in hilariously bad shape. I can move them easily with my hands, and they’re torn and hollow on some. My press tool didn’t work unfortunately, so I’m going to have to try and press them at a shop tomorrow. Does anyone know the torque specs for the bolts to the mounts? I couldn’t find them in the FSM for some reason. I want to be careful not to under/over torque them, since I already snapped a bolt in the past.

Totally forgot about the back of the hub. Probably best not to then. I’ll be getting the bushing removal kit tomorrow and cranking this out. I’ll let you guys know if it goes well. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Think its safe to drop the diff and disconnect the driveshaft, and remove the CV axles, and still drive it? Can’t be any different than 2WD. Thinking about getting it out from under there, but if I dont finish in time, I’ll still need to drive it. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Just turns out I can’t read. Whew. 60mm total length, and yeah the ID for the inner sleeve is roughly 14.5mm Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Oh man... really hoping my caliper is inaccurate... Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Like jjonez said, your best bet first is to get under the transfer-case and get to the linkage. I’d check it for any damage or obvious bends. If you can, disconnect the linkage from the shifting lever, and try and see if you still can’t move the lever without it being attached to the transfer case. If it can’t move, might be something locked up with the assembly that holds the shifting lever and connects to the linkage. I have a 2001 pathy as well, so if you have any questions or need pictures of what I’m talking about, I’ll be happy to help. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

40mm outer sleeve length. 50mm total length. 48mm OD. 43mm ID. 23mm inner sleeve OD. 13mm inner sleeve ID. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

They sure are. One year warranty too, but they seem rather solid. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Look what just arrived. Does anyone need measurements off the brand new ones? Also, looks like these don’t actually have holes that go all the way through them. They’re solid about 10mm in.

Will do. I’m expecting to see the bushings at my doorstep any day now. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Not a bad idea actually. I was going to try and use a control arm bushing tool that we use at work. It’s basically like a massive C-Clamp with various adapters that fit the different diameters of bushings, ranging from small to several inches. I might do that, just torch them and cut them out, then just press the new ones in. The new ones go in easier than the old came out I assume? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Y’all are making me wish I waited to order the new bushings cause someone’s going to find a better solution haha. Not looking forward to pressing those suckers out. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I have never heard of this being done, but it does make sense. I would assume the rubber on the original bushing would have to be in rather decent condition, since the new PU would just stick to it, and not exactly weld together in a sense. I would be a bit more inclined to do it with new bushings to see if they last longer that way.

Definitely. Drilling and tapping is my last resort, going to try to weld a nut onto the bolt and do as you said to remove it. As long as the bolt cross-threaded clean into the mount, it should be possible to unscrew it with the right amount of heat and torque. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

This is what I’m going to try to do. When I get it off, I should have at least a quarter inch of the bolt to mess around with, and hopefully get a nut onto it. Heat it up, and twist very slowly. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

That’s what I was thinking. There’s like a small hole as if there were some sort of air bubble in the bolt there. Doesn’t go very deep. Plus it’s not in the center. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Driver’s side. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

My engine’s been super weird and loving Castrol 5W-40. I used to have an annoying start-up rattle from the valve train, and when I started using 5W-40, it’s been nice and smooth. Probably going to do a really good engine flush soon and switch back to the recommended oil and see how it goes. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I’m pretty sure it’s cross-threaded to hell and won’t back out. I attempted that sort of thing with an impact drill, with a removal screw and it wasn’t going to budge. Drilling a fresh hole is going to be my best bet sadly. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Not too bad. Removing the belt and getting to the seal isn’t too hard, but the spacial constraints make it a bit difficult to pull the crank pulley off easily. There might be a seal directly behind the pulley, which if you’re lucky, that’s all you’ll need to pull out and replace. Otherwise, and I’ll have to check the manual to be sure, there might be something to get ahold of behind the crank sprocket for timing. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk