Bax03SE
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Posts posted by Bax03SE
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Just a quick stock vs not pic of my new rig to show what I’ve been up to. It’s a new truck under warranty so I’m keeping mods minimal, but just a little 2” lift and some wheels and tires to set it apart a little. In case you can’t guess, mine is the black one, lol.
I’m kind of jonesing to have a project vehicle again though, so I’ve been thinking of picking up another R50 or perhaps a WJ grand Cherokee to build another trail rig on the side.
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I don’t get around here much anymore, but your rig is looking great! I’m glad to see someone else do the TJ bumper build, I think it’s a great look for the R50. Did you tie in to the upper bumper mounts at all as well? For reference here’s a pic of how I did the brackets on mine.
This place makes me miss my old R50! If I hadn’t found myself in need of a full size truck for work I’d still have it!
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That color looks fantastic on it!
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I like that you painted the rear springs to match the purple up front!
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Pics not working
, but I definitely want to see where you’re at with this.
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I think you’ll be fine. The hub centric rings make it easier to guarantee proper centering and balancing but it’s not required. I’ve ran non hub centric wheels plenty of times and as long as you tighten the lug nuts by hand and alternate lugs as you go, then it’s not really an issue. You only run into off balance trouble if you run one lug all the way tight (like with an impact) before tightening the other lug nuts.
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6 hours ago, PathyDude17 said:
well shoot. hopefully whoever picks up your pathy finds NPORA
I almost felt like I needed to leave it with my own personal users guide lol, with a list of requirements for ownership including membership on here!
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It’s funny how much work it took to fit 33’s on the pathfinder, and this has 33’s stock and they don’t even look that big on it!
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Love it! Looks really good. How does the height of this set up compare to what you had before? Any problem with strut top out in your test drive?
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I feel a little guilty not sharing, so I figured I’d update everyone that I ended up selling the R50 this weekend. I had been splitting daily driver duties between the pathfinder and my Charger, and since switching jobs last year I’ve found myself really in need of a truck. The result was that while the pathfinder did its best to fill the job of a truck, the Charger just sat around 90% of the time not getting driven. Anyway, I decided to trade in the Charger on a 2019 Ram classic, and sold the pathfinder. I like this forum so I’ll still be around if anyone has any questions! And here’s the new rig.
I literally brought it home from the dealer and backed it up to the trailer to head to a dance competition, lol. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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18 minutes ago, onespiritbrain said:
Ouch! Guess it’s time to go tire shopping! How many miles did you get out of those?
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55 minutes ago, Cbiggy said:
I have lifted two inches in the front, and put heavy duty coils up there also and now my passenger side cv axles clicks and pops a lot. Is it lifted too much. I will post a picture of the cv angle later. But with knowing that i have two inches and heavy duty coils (with weight up front) do you think between the lift is the reason for this cv problem. Oh and I replaced both cv axles yesterday.
Yes, if you have two inch spacers in addition to HD springs then the CVs are going to be at too extreme of an angle even during normal driving. It’s really only the spacers that are causing the problem, the hd springs are just calling attention to it. If you only had the spacers but with stock coils, then your CVs would be at an okay angle under normal conditions, but would extend too far when the suspension was unloaded. So you wouldn’t notice any clicking or popping under most conditions, but if you lifted a wheel off the ground while spinning then you’d notice the cv binding and possible breaking. With the addition of the hd coils, the strut is now further extended even under normal conditions and therefore your getting a little bind causing the clicks you’re hearing. The only way to keep the full lift you have now and fix the CV issue is with a SFD. If that’s not in the cards right now, you could remove the 2 inch spacer but keep the hd springs and you won’t have any issues with the cv with that set up.
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38 minutes ago, JackFletcher said:
Update: I found some info in a Maxima Forum. It sounds like the code is due to the A/T control unit not getting enough voltage. I replaced my battery yesterday just cause I needed a new one, we’ll see if that does anything but I doubt it. On another note, I saw this plug going into my transmission and it is near where my rear main seal is about to go out. I was hoping you guys could tell me what that plug is for and maybe if it could have something to do with the control unit. Thank you.
Sent from my iPhone using TapatalkThat is the crankshaft position sensor. It shouldn’t have anything to do with the code your describing. Having low battery voltage can throw all kinds of strange codes so that really could have been the issue.
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5 hours ago, hawairish said:
I bought a kit like this off eBay the other month for $85, and they've worked great. Used them on long OME HDs for an FJ80 project, and just the other day on R50 OME MDs. I've used those rental ones on OME HDs in the past, but it's a pain. These were fairly effortless.
I really like the design of that! It looks like it would be very robust.
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36 minutes ago, spicyheckboi said:
the ones that worked for you Bax03SE, did they look like this style?
with my impact if these guys held up for yours then they’ll hold up for mine and i won’t kill myself with a ratchet this time like i did on the rear springs.
and yeah lmao no i’m definitely dealing with this myself although i might pay a shop to deal with the lug nut spinning issue i’m having though. just spins but boy can i rip on it with a clamped vice grip and that won’t come off. the rest are fine that’s just annoying and will need a new stud probably.
and i know how much this is gonna suck just because of having to remove the strut bolts when i did the cvs and getting them back in is not happening unless i own one of these after the new struts and springs.
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Yep, those are exactly like what I have.
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2 hours ago, colinnwn said:
My Autozone spring compressor just bent the jackscrew without compressing my HD springs much at all.
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What style was it? Like the one above? I don’t have any experience with that one but it gets good reviews. All I know is I technically got the job done with my regular compressors but it was a major pita so I would want something better if doing it again. Of course you could always take it to a shop to have them assemble the struts, I’m just not sure how they’d feel about putting together a bastardized set up like I’m running, lol.
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If I had to do it over again, or if I ever need to take these springs off I’ll get something like this.
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Nice! I know we talked a little via pm already, but if you run into any questions at all let me know and I’m happy to help as much as possible. One thing I forgot to mention is the need for a good spring compressor. I managed to wrestle mine in with a set of standard two price bolt style compressors but it wasn’t easy. These springs take way more force to compress than the stock springs.
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That lifted Bimmer is awesome!
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That bracket is interesting and might not be a bad starting point. I can see your reasoning for bringing the axle mount up instead of the body mount down and actually don’t think it’s totally crazy, lol. What are you going to do for the lower arm mount? I’m just thinking in order to keep the upper and lower arms in relative alignment with each other, they both need to be either raised or lowered from the same side. I. E. either lower both at the body or raise both at the axle. Or maybe it doesn’t really matter so much if they’re not kept in stock alignment with each other...idk.
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Congrats on graduation! Looking forward to seeing some progress on this project. I still think it may be best to fabricate something to bring the whole upper spring perch down lower instead of just relying on taller springs and spacers. I just would worry about the lack of stability from a spring and spacer combination as tall as what it looks like you would need. Moving the upper perch would also let you customize it to line up straight with the new axle location so you don’t end up with too much arch in the springs.
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I know it’s not the same as the stresses from a winch pulling, but for a basic strength test I’m happy to see the bumper has no problem supporting the weight of the truck (at least the front of it). This is just lifting from the round tube on the front of the bumper. I took it slow, but it lifted both wheels with no complaints. It’s hard to tell in the picture, but the drivers wheel was off the ground just enough to spin it by hand.
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Update. I’ve put about 300 miles on it since cleaning the throttle body and so far not one single problem with start up! Lesson learned, if you have a VQ with the drive by wire throttle, they really don’t like being dirty.
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Random picture of your R50
in 96-2004 R50 Pathfinders
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You have to admit it’s pretty damn unique, and I give him a lot of credit for the backyard fabrication skills! I’ve been following this for quite a while and think it’s cool to see it coming together. How’s the front driveshaft situation going?
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