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dglywasky

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Everything posted by dglywasky

  1. 2nd attempt at borescope - was able to see the tip, it is/was in the deep part of the oil pan. I could not retrieve with borescope hook attachment. I was also able to see the oil pickup tube strainer (at least one side of it) and the strainer (mesh) looks intact. So the piece is approx 5inches away from the oil pickup tube which has an intact strainer/mesh on it. Also, from part catalog I see the oil pickup tube has 2 of 90deg bends not sure if this piece (1.5-1.75inch long) could actually make it through the bends?... anyway this is quite the tortuous path. I feel better. Time to fill up with oil and head down the road, and find a new dipstick of proper length. Thanks for the thoughts.
  2. Thanks for the thoughts. I did drain oil and stuck in borescope, so far havent seen it but the scope flops around and not easy to navigate. Going to try again today/tomorrow, tape it to a wire to keep it from flopping etc. From my best judgement I think the tip (in my case is/was @2" long and rectangular maybe 1/8" each side) is in the sump part... still trying to convince myself. Stay tuned - thanks.
  3. ohhhh boy... need some advice/info on my 1996 Pathfinder VG33 4x4 with 320k miles. Oil dipstick tip (metal indicator) broke off in drain pan - guess just old did NOT recently pull engine or transmission or remove drain pan etc (like I have seen inquired in some posts elsewhere). Regardless of the why, its broken off / detached. To retrieve of course I could remove drain pan BUT as is 4x4 would take lots of work like remove/loosen exhaust pipes (yeah right, drill out every bolt likely), remove front differential, support engine and remove engine mounts etc. Not something I can reasonably consider. I assume the tip is sitting in the oil pan (hopefully the deep part of the sump) and dont see any way it cant go through the strainer (thats good). But, could the tip get "picked up" or kicked up by the oil churn... is the crankshaft (or any part like the counter balance) bathed in / sitting in oil... which is called a "wet sump?" Does the VG33 use "wet sump" lubrication? Is that frickin dipstick tip steel or aluminum (try to fish out thru drain hole)? Realize no one can give me any guarantee, just looking for some informed info & advice - thanks in advance.
  4. After a long battle I have fixed this issue, posting this to help someone else along. I looked at countless posts, videos, service manual procedures, google searches – some helpful some not. Of course I had multiple issues at one time so it complicated the matter. Below I give the short answer but also all that went into it. Changed order so keep as clear as I could. I have a 96 Pathfinder V6 3.3L VGEE 284k Miles Had rough idle when stopped at lights, stop signs etc and long crank to start. This issue got progressively worse (see below details if you wish). Short story is I fixed a leak in fuel line + fixed vacuum leak from lower intake manifold (although I don’t think this did much for idle issue – see below if you wish) and replaced cam-shaft position sensor (part of distributor assembly). Now car idles correctly, idle at correct rpm, runs good (so far). The ordeal/Details (not in exact order): NOTE: at no time did DTC codes give me any indication to the issue. Found a leak in fuel line – replaced section of fuel line – resolved the long crack time, still had rough idle. Replaced fuel filter, air filter, 5 of 6 spark plugs (#1 is stuck) verify spark cables ok - no help. Checked MAF sensor – the voltage readings ok with IGN “On” and idle and linearly increased when open throttle – BUT Serv. Manual says should go to approximately 4.0 V, mine to 2.3V. Checked another sensor and had same results. SO manual not correct? My issue is not MAF. Checked Throttle Position Sensor (TPS) – all resistance readings were reverse of service manual (values at completely open were low 0.9 kohm and got to 3.3 kohm full open). Seemed a reversal is likely not possible and car ok at higher speeds (I just have idle issue). So manual not correct? My issue is not TPS. Suspected vacuum leak – performed smoke test with cigarette blew into tube (see youtube videos) – found large leak coming from lower intake manifold. Pulled upper & lower intake off – replaced with new gaskets – no more smoke coming out. BUT rough idle remained (no change, I guess my car didn’t care about what appeared as a large leak!). By now idle issue getting worse (put in Neutral at lights etc) Timing was way off – had to move distributor a great deal to get timing marks to align but the marks were also jumping around (using timinig light). Checked TDC and alignment of timing belt, cams pulley marks etc all looked good. Suspected Idle Air Control Value (IACV) – replaced with substitute from junkyard. Didn’t have a direct replacement so used on from a Xterra (part numbers differ by 1 digit). Solenoids checked ok and I adjust screw in similar location as existing. Reassembled and figured needed to tune it as not exact same IACV. Started Design of Experiment – adjusting distributor position vs IACV screw vs TPS position. Was able to tune and get a good match although idle was higher than spec – ran great for a few days. Successfully went on 100 mile each way adventure… great until it wasn’t. Idle issue all of sudden much worse, car would stall instead of being rough. Car actually died while driving (I was in parking lot) got started back and able to get home. Suspected Cam-Shaft Position Sensor – replaced distributor with substitute from junkyard. Adjust distributor rotation and got timing 15deg BTC with Timing gun check (marks steady now). Performed Service Procedure to set timing & idle (see Serv Manual combined procedures from EC 27 & 60). Got timing just right, brought idle rpm down but had to adjust IACV screw (fully clock-wise ie all the way in). Runs great – not sure I like the IACV screw fully in but I did use a slight different one. Runs fine, will drive for a few weeks, summer is coming and I need to get my AC fixed so if I need some more flow, I can adjust that screw pretty easy (move EGR BPT valve out of way and its right there). HOPE this helps someone else out.
  5. RESOLVED!!! Ok as the title of this thread doesnt match all content - I will report here and will post a new subject to hopefully help someone else out. My root problem was an idle issue: had 3 problems: 1} fuel line leak - fixed with flex line replacements 2} Large vacuum leak - fixed by replace lower intake manifold gaskets and the creme-de le-crem 3} CAM SHAFT position sensor (in distributor assembly). From research and suggestion from Startibartfast (thanks bossman) looked at distributor. Replaced with junkyard part, re=adjusted position on idle from service manual and BAM smooth as silk. Also - when checking timing... you will see from previous posts that I questioned the timing belt tensioner. I did NOT remove/replace/adjust the tensioner, belt etc. I didnt want to introduce another variable. Thank you to the forum and your suggestions it was so helpful. As said, I will post another topic with subject on the idle issue I had and provie information on the fix, hopefully will help someone. Thanks again
  6. Thanks... she is out and feeling better but they dont really know what it was. So good news ??? I guess... some parallels to my Pathfinder (dont tell her I said that). For those looking to checking TDC with #1 piston stuck.... as Coung Nguyen suggested (correctly) I took all plugs out, and distributor cap off, rotate crackshaft as distributor rotor approaches #1 position you will start to feel resistance (this is compression stroke) you will then have to judge when is highest resistance. Also, #4 does also seem to reach TDC at same time. For my situation: Tore down to timing belt, spacing of teeth between cam shaft mark to cam shaft mark and cam shaft mark to crank shaft mark ok, belt looks in good condition (it should with less than 20k on it) crack-shaft pulley / damper seem in good condition (no separation etc) and crank-shaft pulley at TDC when timing marks aligned and distributor rotor points to #1 position. So, mechanically I seem to be ok... so good news. Now what is wrong? From previous post of Slartibartfast I suspect the distributor assembly (including the angle sensor). Upon reassembly, I am thinking to install the new belt tensioner - just seems to be very stiff, does not free spin a bit when I turn it. I checked at auto parts place another new tensioner and seems the same. It just feels wrong vs the one that is installed which seems to have smooth rotation which continues to turn when you spin in your hand (doesnt continue for a long time like no resistance it just feels like how you would think it should). I will look into and report back.
  7. Ok I also see you wrote VG30... my 96 is a VG33 so perhaps thats the difference.
  8. Thanks for the input... I had to put my troubleshooting on hold for a few days - wife in hospital... so timing wasnt the most of my concerns. But now back to business I appreciate the input. My distributor points looked ok (just cleaned em some more) and rotor looks ok. My timing belt is fairly new... replaced approx 1 year ago when found leaking H2o pump. I reused by time belt tensioner though (long story - trying to match mechanic work before me) so perhaps it has gone bad and maybe I jumped a tooth? I will tear-down and check alignment marks vs dist rotor position vs # of teeth in next day (I hope)... and put on new tensioner which I still have in box on my shelf. I didnt understand the post about the pulley has 6 bolts so can go in wrong 5 ways... crankshaft pulley only has key-weigh and center bolt (1 way) and tensioner puller only has 1 bolt but cambered. Can you clarify what pulley you are referring? Great idea on #1 and #4 being sync'd up... this will help.
  9. Hey Gents (and Ladies?) New again member (after several years) - have a 96 Path XE 4wd V6 3.3L and was chasing an idle issue. As I have tuned it so I can drive I believe I still have a timing issue. When I check timing, the marks jump around with timing gun, to get engine to run happy (sounds best) I had to adjust distributor way off. Runs ok but want to truely double check timing. My problem is, my #1 plug (and only this plug) is stuck will NOT come out or go in, dont want to mess with it. So how can I determine TDC without removing the #1 plug? Any help would be greatly appreciated. Ive spent a great # of hours in garage tuning so I can drive but I dont want to cause long term damage if timing is off.

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