Blindaviator

That's good to hear on the ABS. The jeep overreacted so badly with the larger tires I was afraid it would cause an accident. Is there a good fix for the speedo to correct it? I'm assuming the speedo is a sensor in the transmission or TC and not a cable?

Thx I appreciate it. When I first had the click issue I checked the battery terminal connections and they were indeed loose. The factory strap style connection are tightened all the way down and still loose on the battery (a new battery installed by previous owner). So I fixed it the old fashioned way, I put a small screw inbetween the strap right at the junction and the terminal and tightened. It will do until I can replace it properly. But I still have the click sometimes so it's either possibly a loose connection on starter or the starter it's self.

In my experience with LED's when swapping out from incandescents, all the LED's I have ever used, from cheap to expensive named brands, I have found that as you said they have a polarity in that you install incorrectly and they simply do not work. Install with correct polarity and they illuminate. On many cars (this occurred with a 99 camaro I recently owned) when installed with correct polarity in the tail and turn signals it would cause problems without installing diodes in the supply wires. I found that after the upgrades (on the camaro) when hitting the brakes the front turn signals would illuminate slightly (the brake and turn signal bulbs are separate bulbs). Also the cruise control would no longer work but that occurred because the bulbs did not supply enough resistance. As I stated before I had a Kawasaki Vulcan motorcycle a few years back that had issues with LED's even when the polarity was correct (incorrect polarity and they simply didn't work). They would allow flow back of current through the system causing issues with turn signals. Diodes were required to correct the issues. Many cars will have the same issues the original poster was concerned about even with good quality LED's installed correctly. Most cars these days have a floating ground system that does not play well with LED bulbs without introducing diodes. Granted I am no electrical genius here but only stating what I have found on many cars I have installed LED's in.

Most LED bulbs don't have a diode in them and will allow current to flow both directions (not an issue with incandescent bulbs). I installed LED's in a motorcycle I had a few years back but every time I would turn on one turn signal all 4 (front and back) would flash. I had to install diodes in the supply wires to each LED bulb to stop it.

I just picked up my first Pathfinder about a week ago and have been doing a lot of research on it. It is a 2001 LE model. Pretty much loaded with just about every option (except no LSD.) Have been looking into locker options and the only one that seems viable at this point is ARB for rear. Expensive but trying to drop a good LSD into it with modifications for clutch strength is almost as much. Couple of issues I had had so far: 1) I am assuming the radio and cruise controls on the steering wheel are supposed to be illuminated? Mine don't seem to be. What would be needed to fix the issue? It has a cheap after market stereo in it now that I will replace with a good Kenwood 7" nav system soon. 2) The throttle will sometimes stick at a higher idle (about 1200-1500) after getting off the freeway. If I lightly tap the pedal it will usually idle back down. I picked up some silicone lubricant for the throttle cables to see if that fixes it. 3) The in-dash clock didn't work. Found out it is usually the resistors on board. Re-soldered them a bit and it works now. 4) The alternator was out when I purchased it (the seller destroyed the battery bulb in dash to hide the fact). Replaced it with a Vatozone unit and works good now. The battery and SES lights were both out, removed dash and replaced bulbs. 5) Power seat would not move foreward or back. Research told me it would be a sticky motor. Tapped on the motor and it works now. 6) Starter will sometimes just click when trying to start. The car had been sitting a while and figure the solenoid could be a little gummed up. If it continues I will drop a starter in it. 7) I am getting the Valve solenoid code for left side (variable valve timing solenoid). Research says it could be a sticky valve / solenoid & to remove, clean, lubricate and reinstall to fix, Otherwise replace. 8) Power windows slow. Lubricated with Silicone spray and they seem to be better. Anything else I need to look out for? The person that I picked it up from was the original owner and seems to have done some maint but probably lost interest when the alternator went out. Have plans to get a simple 2.5" lift for it, probably some taller tires (probably 31's) and lockers front and back (with manual hubs in front.) Will the taller tires cause issues with the ABS system? I had a jeep recently with 31's and the ABS would over react when stopping and start pulsing the brakes. I had to disable the ABS for safety.