SpaceCadet
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Posts posted by SpaceCadet
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I think I pulled power from the same place for the hood light on my '95. I suspect what's happened is that the fuse link between that box and the battery has fried. For an easy test, check for voltage between the contact where the fan wire's installed and ground.
The security system switch middle position is alarm on/impact off IIRC, so the alarm would go off if you opened a door but not if it got bumped. At least, I assume that's what it does--I leave mine off. Again, though, there's no main power disconnect from the alarm.
Are there other fuse links other than the ones at the positive battery terminal?
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Fusible links is located at the positive lead of the battery terminal. Follow the wires and you will see them all.
Thanks! Where's the starter relay?
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Also, where are the fusible links for the ignition and where is the inhibitor, starter and interlock relays? Its a 2wd so do i have an interlock relay?
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So as i was pulling out the instrument cluster while the car was running (palm to forehead) to change a bulb I mistakenly pulled the wires out of the radiator fan switch that the PO installed and the car shut off. After I installed the wires back onto the switch and reconnected the battery i went to turn it over and nothing happened. No lights on the cluster, no click, nothing.... The radiator switch is power by a wire stuck in the empty relay space in the driver side fuse box, hazards will turn on, headlights work, power locks work but that's it. I checked connections and nothing looks fried. I do have the factory security switch at my center console that has never lit up when on or works at all to my knowledge. I leave that switch at the in between point where it says "impact". What the hell did i do to my pathfinder? Please help, my wife is heckling the @!*% out of me.
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Huh. That's not good. Is there power to anything?
I'm not aware of any inertia shutoff or other "oh crap I'm dead better act like it" built into the WD21. All I can figure is that one of the wires going to that fan controller was tapped into the positive feed for something else, and touched something it shouldn't have when it came loose, popping a fuse link and interrupting power to the ignition switch. I'd start by checking the fuse links on the positive terminal of the battery--I haven't looked up the ignition wiring recently (it's in the manual) but I'd expect it to draw direct from there. If those look good, check the main fuse box. Or follow the PO's fan wiring until you find the scorch mark.
I don't know what to make of the door locks popping up... sounds like a safety feature but it's not one I've run into.
So i put everything back together ( fan wiring and inspected all wiring and instrument cluster). Nothing hapens when i turn the key and cluster does not light up. Hazards still work, power locks work, headlight works. Thats about it though. My Pathfinder does have the factory secrity swith on the center console. It was not on, the button was in between on and off.
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The PO did run a wire from the empty relay slot in the fuse box. That's the wire that initially snapped off. My FSM says and shows nothing in that one.
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So, a little update. In pulling the bezel a pulling back the lower piece that covers below the steering wheel I pulled out the wires on the switch(which the PO installed) for an aftermarket radiator fan. I had the car running while I did this (don't ask me why I thought this was a good idea). As soon as the wires got pulled out the car shut off and the cars power locks unlocked. I tried turning it over and nothing happened, no click not lights on the cluster, nothing. I haven't plugged anything back in yet but when I do should I expect everything to be working again or does my car think I just got in a front end collision and I'll have to do some reprogramming?
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Thanks guys! I'll pull it apart and if a new bulb does the trick.
I found the wiring diagram on the FSM and it looks super simple. It is one GY wire that goes directly from the OD switch to the light bulb.
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Hey there! I noticed yesterday that my overdrive was off (probably from my 2year old pretending to drive) but the "O/D off" light on the cluster was not on. So I switched it on and off and it still wouldn't come on. It seems that overdrive is still working. The tranny reacts when I turn it on and off. I looked in my Haynes manual and couldn't figure it out on the wiring diagram and there is nothing that mentions the overdrive light. Any suggestions?
Thanks!
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So since I've owned this vehicle it hasn't worked at 100% til now and WOW what a vehicle! It runs and picks up like a bat outta hell! I'm hoping this vehicle lasts a really long time!
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Problem Solved!!!! It was the ECU!!!! Got one off ebay for $20, swapped it out and it worked like a charm! Fingers crossed it stays that way! Thanks everyone for all the help!
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Do you just run the middle seat waist strap for your kid's car seat? I do that for mine but it wiggles around a lot and makes me a little nervous.
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Not sure I would resort to it being the ecu just yet but that's just my opinion since could still check some other things before going to ecu change out route. Have you checked everything on back side of the cluster as well to make sure nothing was loose or not quite right?
He pulled out the cluster and everything looked good.
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With my 95 XE I was having issues going over 20 mph & my rpm's would still go way high. Once speed sensor was replaced I was able to gain a little bit more speed but then I was not able to go over 3000 RPM such being stuck in Limp Home Mode found some bad wire connections fixed them up but mine is still a work in progress as I found much worse problems that needed addressed.
I would suggest to follow your wiring looking for anything that looks bad or not right cracks or anything else. Would also check the Inhibitor Connector & wiring on my 1st 95 XE I also had these similar symptoms & it ended up being that the wires for the Inhibitor switch had melted to the exhaust manifold. So with them being melted to manifold ended up having wires exposed & in contact with other wires that became exposed as well. Once I got a new inhibitor switch & new wiring for it as well fixed my issues.The connection for inhibitor switch will run from under truck near transmission & transfer case & come up into engine compartment by the bell housing where it then plugs into connector alongside the passenger side wall of engine compartment I believe. May not be the case with yours but worth checking out to see since everything I have found with the way the wiring runs throughout is that it is either run in not the smartests of pathways or there is just not a lot of slack in wiring if ever need to make a repair.
My mechanic and i both checked all of that wiring and found nothing damaged. One thing my mechanic noticed today when checking the injectors is that once he revs it to 2k rpm when it bogs the injectors drop out. So that would mean its a issue with output, right? Him and I both today came to the conclusion that it would it could be something with the ECU and worth spending $40 on a used one to give it a try.
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I'm going to pick up a couple ECUs and see if that works. Its worth a shot!
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I replaced my revolution sensor and my issues never came back. It is sometimes mistaken for speed sensor.
What was your issue?
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A little update... Its still in the shop. My mechanic cannot figure it out yet.. He has checked everything! Upon doing some research myself and looking at the wiring diagrams and came across the revolution sensor and how it is connected to the TPS. I brought it up to him and he has not check that yet thinking it couldn't be the problem. I left him the diagram and he said he'll look into it today. I read on a forum somewhere of someone having a similar issue and it ended up being the rev sensor. does anyone have any incite on failed rev sensor symptoms? There is no code for rev sensor in diagnostics and in the FSM it shows that the rev sensor could effect it going into fail safe mode.
If this doesn't work I'm going to try switching out the ECM. Do you know where I could get a used ECM at is trusted?
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When I replaced the PCV breather hose I chose OEM. Upon doing research I found that you can't use any old vacuum or fuel line at the right size, you need to use Nissan's because its made specifically for PCV. I don't know how entirely true that is but it gave me piece of mind. Other vacuum lines just go to any autoparts store and use what they have, it'll work fine.
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Oh and he said its not in fail safe...
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So my mechanic still has it and I stopped in today and what he had to say is that his gut tells him its the MAF. He is doing pin point testing on all sensors to really see because he notices that the busted Tach responds to the motor not going above 20mph when it bogs and kicks so he wants to see if that's related. He's got 4 hours into it already and said hell make sure he doesn't go over $1000.00
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I'm having the same problem. Your cars in fail safe mode that's why it won't go over 2k rpm. It's in the shop now, I'll let you know what the solution was.
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I took it to my mechanic this morning to take a look and see what he comes up with. I'll let you guys know what he says as soon as I find out. Thanks everyone for all the help! If your ever in Buffalo, beers are on me!
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I think he means a new harness side connector was spliced in.
The lack of a tach reading could indicate an issue with the cam sensor but that should throw a code.
Have you checked fuel pressure yet?
Exactly, Thanks for making it understandable snowboard. I figured the lack of tach was just an instrument cluster issue...shouldn't an MAF show a code as well? I've read somewhere that sometimes it doesn't. Could that be the case for a cam sensor?
Haven't check fuel pressure. Would that change if the TPS went from unplugged to plugged in? Because don't forget, it drove ok before I plugged it in...not great but ok.
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Spliced in? Doesn't sound right. It's plug and play
The connector on the TPS was intact but the connector for the rest of the vehicle was spliced in. I'll go take a picture of it.
"O/D off" light wont turn on when I switch O/D off.
in 90-95 WD21 Pathfinders
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It was the fusible link! fixed and back on the road! Thanks everyone!