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onespiritbrain

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Posts posted by onespiritbrain

  1. I haven’t tried 5w20 yet. The last time, and all other times I put thicker oil in, it takes an entire oil change interval before clearing up.

    Something I’ve been noticing lately is that after an oil change, it’s like a wave, valve train noise increases until peaking at 3000 miles, and then starts decreasing again until it’s as quiet as a fresh oil change at 4000 miles. However I always change it around 4000.. don’t know exactly what that means, my theory is that the viscosity modifiers deteriorate rapidly until the higher base viscosity is reached causing poor flow and then oil dilution takes over returning lower viscosity and restoring flow.

    The best results I’ve gotten so far are with 5w30 Rotella Gas Truck Oil and a Fram Gold filter. Supposedly the oil has a high dissolved molybdenum content in addition to zinc.


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  2. I would try some good 5w30 synthetic. What filters are you using? I know wix are good quality but they also caused my oil pressure to be slow on startup. 

    The oil filter adding to the problem is something I experience. The best I have found is Fram Silver/Gold. Even K&N makes mine start clacking, even with 5w30. The ONLY combo that works for me is synthetic 5w30 and Fram Silver/Gold.


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  3. Well I'm pretty certain it isn't an oiling issue as you can see the oil flowing from around the tip of the lifter through the oil cap hole. But if I have to I'll get some brake clean and compressed air and blow through everything that I can and see if that changes anything. I'd rather not have to pull the heads but thanks to it being tbi it's pretty simple getting to everything unlike mpfi rigs lol

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    I might be jumping the gun on making assumptions on our issues being the same. I’m just hypersensitive to valve train noise and I’ve never heard anyone say the noise increases with higher viscosity except you. Mine is a VG33 so our heads are very similar but I think the oil pumps are different and it’d be a stretch to say two different oil pumps produce such a strange phenomenon.


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  4. You'd think that with an aging engine thicker oil would shut it up lol I'm going to run this oil in it for a few days since it also has a little mmo in it and then try an even thinner oil and cross my fingers. I've spent like $50 on oil in the last 2 days

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    I suspect either clogged oil pathways leading to the heads or some other kind blockage issue, or some sort of oil pump problem. Higher viscosity equals higher resistance to flow or something..


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  5. I had 10w30 in prior to the first pil change and it was still making a racket. Tomorrow I'm going to play around with a feeler gauge and see if maybe the cam lobes are worn down or something. If not I guess I'll be getting a set of heads from a donor vg30 and going that route. I also forgot to add that at idle my oil pressure is 12psi and at 3200rpm its 56psi so oil pressure is spot on thanks to a new oil pump when I did the rebuild years aga. 

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    If I put even 10w30 in mine is clacks itself half to death. But 5w30 and it purrs..  

     

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  6. I heard a tale about the front propeller driving the oil pump in the auto tcase. I wonder if the tcase is getting hot and throwing the light.

     

     

    Edit: I think that actually may not make sense because isn’t there an electric oil pump (secondary?) that kicks on when your moving slow in 4lo?

  7. Honestly I feel like this site is a lil outdated I couldn't post pictures on here till I downloaded tapatalk

    Sent from my Z982 using Tapatalk



    Bandwidth and storage would cost NPORA a bunch. We’d all have to pay dues.


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    • Like 2
  8. 20 hours ago, Slartibartfast said:

    Wow! That's not good. Do you have a timing light? 15° BTDC +/- 2, in neutral, with the engine warmed up. (I've set mine cold and it was off when it warmed up.)

    I set it with the light originally while warm and all, according to the FSM but when I went to drive it there was a big reduction in power until 3k RPM, then it would open up and had normal power beyond 3k RPM. I then just started playing around with distributor positions until I had power across the RPM range. Even now having put it back where it appears to have been originally I have a lack of power, however it is fairly smooth and doesnt really open up much at any RPM. I may play around with it some more.. I can deal with a small power reduction but I'd rather have the coronavirus than another blown head gasket!

  9. Got tired of my rattling exhaust heat shields and decided to do something about it. Found out instead that I very poorly set my ignition timing and that the sound I’ve been hearing for probably a year now was actually pinging.

    I set the distributor to a mark I could see on the tab where it locks down and voila, like magic my exhaust stopped rattling! Derp


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    • Like 1
  10. I’m in north Georgia and most local small businesses are all closed. Local restaurants are struggling and the streets are nowhere near as busy as usual. My job is intact as we blow mold toner bottles which go to hospitals, however toner bottles are maybe 5% of our sales, the rest is small engine fuel tanks for Honda and Honda is on lockdown due to a SARS2 outbreak. I expect to see our operations go down to a skeleton crew soon..

    I’m planning on building an AR15 with the stimulus cash.


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    • Like 2
  11. 21 minutes ago, PathyGig12 said:

    Maybe it was there for a while but was covered up by how loud and rough the ride was with the mudders? Or Is it possible that driving on those crappy tires for as long as I did could have caused the bearings to be damage? 

     Thats exactly what happened to me. There was a very loud sound (sounded just like mud tire tread slapping the pavement only a different tone, started at a higher speed, would increase in pitch more dramatically than the tire noise, and would create an oscillating droning as the tire and bearing sound waves would interfere with each other) coming from the driver outer wheel bearing and I had no idea because of those stupid (but useful in mud) tires. 

     

    It was glaringly obvious when I got the wheel bearing exposed that it was completely toast. The grease looked like my daughters homemade glitter lip gloss, the rollers had gashes all over them, and there was a blue/purple streak around the outer race where it was getting super hot.

    • Like 1
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