LittleFR
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Posts posted by LittleFR
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Global Politics
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I use an old heavy fiberglass cart from a school lunchroom. Works like a charm but is flammable as it turns out.
Yours looks a lot handier.
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Personally I could get my stock springs out with a big flat head... Safety glasses and only the rear shock removal. But no way could I get an aftermarket or fresh stock spring in without dropping the rear axel down or spring compressors... I used spring compressors.
I took electrical tape and put my old plastic piece on the new springs and wrapped all points that would touch. I tried to used fuel hose... It's too thick and won't jive.
No top and bottom on the rears I could tell. Just look at your stockers and where the end of the curly que was and lign it up with your rubber or it may squeak.
Whatcha your brake lines and your breather tube. Replace your shocks while your there. Wear safety glasses.
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Flushed and filled trans. Removed shock extensions (making multiple holes to adjust travel)
Got her aligned.
And hit a deer running 40mph. Thank goodness the lift put my bumper at shoulder height and it smoked the deer and left the Pathy unscathed... Other than a ton of deer fluids/solids and hair.
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When I did OME springs in the rear and the 1.5" spacers I never did unhook anything but the top shock mount. I just compressed the springs for removal and installation and pushed the diff down with my fore arms and re-installed. Lucky you had help! It took me a good 8hrs to lift my truck front and back by myself. But I was doing new front springs, struts, manual hubs and end links. My rears were the OME 2922's
I've enjoyed reading your thread. Glad to see you doing your own wrenching. Your stance is perfect. Too bad when you do the springs everything is going to get thrown off!! I actually lifted the front and did the OME in the rear. Drove it around up in the front and let it all settle then measured to give me .5" of rake in the back. And ended up adding 1.5" spacers. I am picky with my stance. I actually had 1/4" more on the passenger side due to bottom mounting the spacers and them hitting on a factory weld.... Going to have to clearance that soon.
Keep up the good work.
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When I read the title I was thinking like step by step instructions on disassembly of the door. And a motor upgrade. Haha
Definantly going to do this at work 2moro.
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In Kentucky we have an incomplete transfer form, you fill out to free you from all liability after a sale if you aren't present for a transfer.
Everything has to be notarized but your presence is not required nor does seller and buyer have to use same notary.
I've had 1problem in maybe 40 vehicle sales... the jerk didn't transfer the title and I failed to check at the courthouse and fill out an incomplete transfer. And incidentally I junked a vehicle of the same make and year... He went to transfer it and I had accidentally scrapped his title. $20 later he had a new title. I had my junked truck title junked. And I filed an incomplete transfer on him even though he changed it.
Kentucky is awesome. Also real easy to get a rebuilt title on a junked vehicle. Ive done that 3 times.
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I had similar problems on a Ford Ranger after a swap. It was pinchining the shift boot between the floorboard and the shift lever. I took off the boot mount and clearanced the floorboard. Also I used hot mink oil to soften the boot.
I don't know on your Pathy. However a double spring or shim to make the shifting tighter should give you a more positive feel.
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He's not selling products for a time yet. Now what options are there?
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The dealership inspected mine last week. I suppose this is still on.
They are replacing the rear hatch strut and bracket that has been recalled on Monday. I'm not sure I understood why.
Also they double checked my airbag module on the passenger side but mine was an unaffected Pathfinder for that recall.
My wife got some interested looks at the dealer rolling up in a lifted Pathfinder. Gave me an excuse to get some Trans D to flush and fill everything.
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I was rather dissapointed after your many helpful posts to not be able to purchase your products. Your advice and knowledge of the R50 platform and it's limits essentially built my truck as it sits. Hopefully when things return to normal and your website is up again I can purchase a product or two from you. In the mean time I look forward to gleaning more information.
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I run 2" spacers in front. With new Moog springs front. OME rear coils and 1.5 rear spacers. All factory bushings reused. New KYBs front and rear. Rears have 4.5 inch homemade shock extensions. And I have 1/2" higher rake in the rear of my pathfinder. 1" wheel spacers with stock uncut center cap Trispokes over Warns. I clear 265/70r16 Duratracs. And I really think it's the best possible ride and best looking stance I could get out of her without a SFD or spending a lot of money.
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My step dad and I swapped 3motors one Saturday in three different vehicles. We ran out of oil dry. He took a shovel. Went and dug some dry dirt. Swept it around our new garage and applied it to a gravel road. No more oil in the garage.
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I've ran them three different times. On 2 4wds and once on my Monte Carlo. I never had any issues on the 4x4's even lug centric. I used lockrite and greased the back of the acorns and did a star pattern and went hand tight to torque and I sand the flush mounting points.
The Monte I was just trying to get by for 3 weeks until the prosper backspace wheels came in... No grease.... No locktite. Just torqued and during a staging burnout I slipped one. Literally broke 3 nuts and stripped the threads on a couple. Nearly killed me when I launched (I thought I just had wheel hop)
So I actually still trust them. I just don't mess around if I install them. I take serious time and do it proper. And check them after weather changes.
I run a 1" now on my R50. I don't know if it's public information but if you use 1" on stock Tri spokes you can put your center caps over the Warns without cutting a hole in them.
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May check the torque on the anti sway bar end links. Do you have manual hubs? Could be the front driveshaft. On the other hand a U-Joint in the rear could cause odd vibration.
Jack up the truck and do the 12 and six shake on the tire for wheel bearing and the 9 and 3.
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I bought my Warns on Amazon. My mileage went down but I also lifted 3" and put on some big MTs. The steering is a lot better and it coasts forever unlike before. I have auto and all mode.
I like your wheels and tires.
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I've had no issues other than having to draw out a schematic to explain to my wife why she can't put the Pathy in Auto mode. Ive heard of some folks having lights come on due to the wheel speed sensors I assume and the Warns. But I've driven over two hours on the highway at once and not had a hiccup.
As Fleury stated the manual hubs will not cause oil starvation in the T case just don't use auto with them unlocked.... You'll only try it once.
If your that worried about it getting put in auto. Drill you two holes and put a (reverse lock out) flip down toggle to block it. Use short screws.
When you do the Warn swap throw the instructions away or you will break something haha.
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I made shock extensions for an R50 it took me 20 minutes and 4 lawn mower blades. Nobody makes them and I don't know why. I love the stock ride on stock extended shocks.
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Welcome. Your Pathy is just like my 01. Silver and all. I did the warn manual hubs. Ditched the useless steps and went from there.
Glad to have you.
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This is an old thread. I used to wheel at Turkey Bay often. Pretty sure I have the only lifted R50 in the state of KY.
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I had a weird clicking in my rear suspension.... It was my shocks. Is it possible the new bushings tightened everything up and is making something unrelated rattle?
I crawled under my truck with safety glasses and had my nephew jump up and down on the receiver until a found the offender.
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I'm kind of in tune with the load making the CAT superheat the brake fluid under a load. A hill should not affect your brakes... Ever.
On a side note transmission fluid always looks better on the dip stick than when you actually drain it. I'd be awful tempted to at least do a flush and fill.
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I put 1" spacers on my wheels. I have the tri-spokes. I didn't want to cut the center cap and 1" was perfect to clear them.
I used Chevy lug-centric spacers I had on the shelf for several years. I cleaned the mounting surfaces. Greased the back of the acorns so they wouldn't 'bite' used blue loctite and torqued to 100lbs. Haven't looked back. Well actually I have checked the torque on them a couple times but they haven't moved.
I wouldn't be scared to grind the lip down either though. Or take it to a machine shop and let them do it quick and easy. Our local machinists are starving since the mines closed here and they are thrilled to work on kids bicycles for ten bucks a pop.
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Looks good. We literally have identical 2001 Silver Pathys.
Your original build contributed me wanting to build mine up.
Transmission Shift Point Question
in 96-2004 R50 Pathfinders
Posted
I have a 2001 3.5 Auto. I searched but it's all on flares and slipping. I have none of that.
I did a flush and fill about a week ago so I've been extra alert.
I noticed this morning heading to work it didn't shift into OD. Dismissing this as the Cold engine = no OD I didn't worry about it. I had only gone 1.25 miles. It was fine further into my drive.
This afternoon I started it about 10 minutes before I left work, got gas and left everything running so it was good and hot. Drove normal to home with some heavy acceleration and had no issues.
I drove past my house to a straight stretch and hammered down. At WOT I had nice crisp shifts to 80mph but wasn't in OD. I had to let off to get it to shift then level out the throttle for TC lockup.
Is that normal? I'm not familiar with these transmissions. I ran out of road I don't know if it ever would have shifted. It was nearly 5k RPMs.
Does anyone have an auto with a base comparison.