meekrog

Thanks a ton, got that TPS all worked out. Went to smog it and ran high HC at idle... Vaccum leak probably, as before I replaced the TPS it passed HC's and only failed CO.

Thank you very much, will be working on it this evening again! Will update after! This board is a lifesaver.

Yeah, I have been checking periodically for years for a freebie... Chilton and haynes just don't cut it for some things.

Okay, found a couple places with how to do it, any line on a full downloadable factory service manual? Will be attempting to get it figured out tonight, I fiddled will it a little yesterday before I got ahold of a multimeter and got it to run nasty but run, so hopefully a good calibration will work. Wish me luck... Haha

I replaced my TPS and now it starts right up but promptly dies. I reattached all the vacuum hoses, harnesses etc correctly... switched back to old sensor and same issue. Do I just need to adjust it? or should it at least run even without? I checked through previous posts on the subject but none quite matched up so i was hoping someone has had this happen and could shoot me some advice. Thanks

and after getting it back together for the fourth time it was still making noise... resorted to youtube and found this http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UdrjijgLXb8. This was the exact noise and after an inspection of the lower timing cover I found the bottom bolt to be stripped and rattling against the harmonic balancer, anyways problem solved and something to watch for! Evidently it is not a terribly uncommon issue to run into while doing vg series timing belt swaps.

After tinkering with it there are a couple adjusting screws that deal with it directly/ indirectly and I now have my idle down to a thousand when warm and no longer doing the bouncing from 1200-1600 rpm's. So it seems to be more or less one more problem solved!!!

Anyone ever deal with the thermo element or dash pot? Ran into some info that leads to those.

After I got it all together it was making some noise from under the timing cover... time for round three, thinking that maybe I set the tensioner too tight... Couple hours later... truck is put back together, tensioner has been pinpointed as root of terrible racket... Round 4 tomorrow!

Still no solution on this business...

False alarm actually... haha Tooth count was perfect. The issue was my eyes being goofy and me not taking paralax into account, even the dimples line up perfect when you look at them right.

What do I do about it being a tooth off on one side? just rotate?

When at TDC for number 1 and having the crank at 0 degrees the dimples on the driver side crank dont match up. It was this way when I opened it up and I am wondering what the issue/ possible remedy for being a couple teeth off would be. I have scoured through seemingly all of the info people have given in other threads and have not gotten a definitive answer. So any input or advice would be great.

Haha

Clutch is shot on my 87... so I am going to throw a new one in, have a really good idea of what I have to do never done one on a pathy though. Just curious if anyone has any advice on issues they have had or whatnot?

Throttle cable is all good, runs fine other than the high idle. I will check those things today thanks Kingman.

Still have not been able to figure it out, so bumping it up...

I have an 87 v6 se pathy. Been having my idle sit at 11 and more recently to 15 hundred warm. Have my idle adjuster almost all the way out, and did a tune up not too long ago. Any advice and input as to causes and possible solutions would be great. Did a forum search and really couldn't find any answers. Thanks in advance, Aaron

Had the anchor bushings for the compression rod disintigrate and front bushing cup beak half off. Having a hell of a time getting the bolts that attach the rod to the lower control arm. Anyone else do this before? Are they Nylock and if so is there a good way to get them off short of cutting? Any input would be appreciated. Thanks

Well just got done messing around with the truck, got a new bolt to thread in after a little effort and it is holding perfect so just need to kind of keep an eye on it for a while. On another note took a little tensio0n off the torsion bars and that stopped the 4x4 issues i was having too. No more popping or other bad noises anymore. Pretty stoked. And thanks again for all the help gotta love this forum.

Having a hard time finding a roll tap in the right pitch. everyone has the 1.25... got the bolts though and only one of the holes got stripped. So gotta make some more calls and what not to try and find a tap. Thanks for all the advice guys.

Some how my uca bolts, the ones that go into the frame came loose wheeling and i didn't know it. Needless to say they stripped out and it seems like the actual threads in the frame piece may be stripped as well. Just looking for advise on getting this repaired. Wondering whether it will be drilling and tapping or something of that sort and if so how much would probably run.

Rough country uca's up front, jgc coils in the rear. shocks all the way around and also did 3 inchs of body a while back.

Nope warn manual hubs no autos. will check that thread mentioned though.

Ok so i got my lift on and all that jazz and the first time i went out to play i put it in 4 high and got some weird vibrations in the front end accompanied by a wicked popping sound. Put it back in 2 high and it was fine. Just curious as to whether or not anyone has any idea as to what i should tear apart first.