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wmj259

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Posts posted by wmj259

  1. I called a locksmith, he came in. I told him that I changed the ECM. He initialized the immobilizer and the car started up soooo smoothly with a purr. The code for a swirl solenoid is coming up, but I read that the code needs to be erased for it to turn the CEL off.


    I also asked him if he could do the relearning of the TB and idle stuff. He did that. Also he scanned a Honda Element for me and was insisting on the same price as on the phone for $125. If anyone needs a recommendation in MD, I say call Victory Auto Lock.


    I am having a jerking issue now. When I put my foot on the gas a little bit it jerks. Could be because I didnt reset the CEL?

    I just reset the CEL. Will test drive again. Any thoughts ?

  2. I scanned the car, and am getting 3 codes

    P1610-NATS Malfunction

    P1615-NATS Malfunction

    P1131-Swirl Control Solenoid Valve.

     

    ????

    I just tried to perform a P1610 Nissan Lock Mode Escape. (turn on ignition for 5 secs and turn off, repeat 3 times total.

     

    I noticed whenever I have the Key to ON the security light is on solid.

  3. Also I may add that the remote works in opening the door locks. Does the key still need initializing? I can do that know if it does. The key does crank the vehicle if that makes a difference.

     

    I disconnected the connector that goes to the valve to do the tests shown in this video....

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BYuRKzsqp-g
    I am getting the 12 volts from the battery in the middle column, but for resistance I am getting only 20 in the testings as the video has 30. Maybe different model?


    I noticed when looking at the plug it was burned/melted.
    Here's some pics. Could this be the issue?

     

    http://i.imgur.com/DUyFzqH.jpg

    http://i.imgur.com/rae5vg4.jpg

    http://i.imgur.com/67Zebbx.jpg

    http://i.imgur.com/Kci8yE4.jpg

    http://i.imgur.com/w4THMkP.jpg

  4. I'd do the vac lines and look possible issues with the intake gasket. Any codes? IIRC there's some kind of idle relearn thing you could try as well, should be in the service manual.

     

    Too bad about the valve screws. Hopefully the missing ones found their way back out without doing too much damage.

    I don't have a Consult2 reader. Am I out of luck?

  5. Interesting, same thing happened to me after cleaning the TB (never touched the MAF) and after two years it's still idles high. There's no idle screw adjustment on the VQs. You do have to do idle relearning either through the Nissan Consult tool or via the ignition key on/off sequence- which I did multiple times to no use. All my research showed the TB has to be replaced due to the motor control solenoid which supposedly very easily can short out. In fact, I read in some cases the bad solenoid would also short out the ECU component that controls the idle and you end up having to replace both. Personally I've been living with it but eventually I'll try to find a TB on fleabay or a the junkyard.

     

    Has happened to me, but I dont know what fried my ECU.

  6. It may of needed to learn the closed throttle position as its drive by wire. It's easy to do, but is time consuming. Don't rush it and things should go fine. What you want to do is sit in the car with drivers door closed and no loads on. Keep your feet off the pedals. Cycle the key to the on position(do not try and start) and let it sit for 10 seconds. Once 10 seconds is up, cycle the key off for another ten seconds. You have to do this about 20 times. This will learn the throttle pedal closed position as well as the throttle body closed position. You should end with they key on. You can then try and start it and see what happens.

     

    That could be the case, I just had this same problem with my VW Passat. Will try tomorrow or Monday. But damn, 20 times???? :/ . I tried doing a ECU reset (not sure if thats what its called)

     

    I had to turn the key to on position, wait 3 seconds and then within 5 seconds press the gas pedal and release. Then wait 7 seconds, hold the gas pedal for 10 seconds..........................yada yada. Tried to look through my history to find that link.

     

    Not sure if that process ^^^^^^(Above) was applicable to me?

  7. Hello,

     

    New to the forum, but I have tried googling these things. I have a 2002 Nissan Pathfinder V6. I sent it off for repair because the computer was "burned" (it was black). (I am asking my dad what had been done so these are his words). So we sent it off for repair had it repaired and coded and it was sent back. So after plugging it back in the RPM wouldn't steady out it would rise and die down repeatedly.

     

    Called the repairer for what he did on the computer and we said to change the motherboard and he programmed it. Same issue.

     

    I had thought the key would be the problem so i called a locksmith who programmed the key, and I asked him to program the computer since he said he could. He did that and same issue with rpm, I told him about it and he got mad and deleted everything on the computer (I assume since it won't start now.) I have the computer and it looks like Module Repair Pro fixed it. http://www.shop.modulerepairpro.com/.

     

    Thinking it needs reprograming now. Any clue?

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