MaxRX7
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Posts posted by MaxRX7
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Hey, I suspect I have a leaking water pump as a small amount of coolant is dripping in between the main crankshaft pully. can anybody concur?
I find no other source of leak from the radiator, or related hoses.
Is there an easy way to just replaced the water pump, because from what I've read is that it is basically like changing the timing belt which is a big job.
thanks
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wow what a thread, I like this guy and his philosopy.
"finer aspects of the female of the species....even tho at 66 I can't do anything (as if I'd get the chance!"
shoot you should see my dad, he is 1 or 2 years older than you, married, and still pulling the females, some in their 20s. Now I never said they are the most attractive, but not that bad either, anyways gotta give my old man props for that.
Yes...but that is like me saying that I've made it to 66 and smoked cigars all my adult life, ate butter sandwiches,drank booze and made love to questionable women and here I am going strong....
So therefore, doing all that must be good for me.
I might drop dead tomorrow morning while taking a dump. How ignominious....just imagine.
BUT - if I stop all that bad stuff and repent and do only good things, I certainly will live another 30 years....
Right !
Well, the facts are that adding a cooler keeps the ATF cooler and extends the Transmission's life -
so...'git 'er done ! - or do you want to buy another transmission and pay some
dude $90/hour to install it ?
BTW - I intend to keep smoking Cigars, drinking Beer and at least looking at and appreciating the
finer aspects of the female of the species....even tho at 66 I can't do anything (as if I'd get the chance!).
You put's yer money down and ya takes yer chances.....no guarantees.
DoctorBill (the philosopher)
PS - Do those 4 little little "stick" things they give you to "pin" the cooler to your radiator really work well?
I would think the two of them vibrating would cause the Cooler to rub the radiator and eventually booger it up.
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Just FYI.... I skipped on the KYBs and went to the adjustable RS9000XL and let me tell you I haven't really adjusted them much, but the truck is definately more stable (it's not bouncy and jumpy like it was before). So the ride is way smoother now. When I compared these shocks with the Sensatracs, the difference was clear as day. These Ranchos are way thicker and look beefier. Only real reason I went with them was to take advantage of the buy one get the 2nd one 50% off. so overall not a bad deal, just hope they mail me my rebate check.
Installed the KYB Gas A Just shocks tonite. Didnt have time to test drive. Hope to test drive tomorrow & experience a positive handling improvement. 1 minor annoyance, they are white shocks and look like shid. Would much rather have had silver like the GR2's. My Pathfinder is Sherwood with Grey flares/bumpers.so what do think of them so far?
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Caddy SRX and on occasion a Scion xb
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are the rubber ones just as good, or is it better to get polyeurethane(spelling?)?
the polys are always better and will def. last longer by not deintergrating like in pic. plus they won't get mushy in due time like rubber.
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my auto door locks have just failed. replaced the 10 amp fuse and they worked for a day or 2 now back to not working. Just so happens about the same time my keyless entry quit working too. I went through the TSB that was pinned and all works, the alarm still works, reporgrammed my keyless entry but still a challenge to get my doors unlocked. Anyone have a tip?
same thing happened with you. bascially when a relay is dying it doesn't go out 100%, it might still click on and off a few more times. like if you were to tap on the gray module maybe it'll work for another week or so. the alarm is on a seperate module that's why it is not affected. you shouldn't have to reprogram your remote.
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i dont have keyless entryyea when u push the lock button the relay i guess is what it is in the back drivers side clicks ubt nothin happens. when ever i push the door lock down it just locks that one door i have checked fuses and havent found any that are blown so i had no clue were to start from their
same thing happen to me a few years ago. the clicking is from the relay that is stuck. go to the back drivers side and pull off the plastic side panel. there you'll see a gray box with a wiring harness. it's called a door lock timer or something like that. basically you'll have to replace it by (buying a new one, replacing the relay inside, or taking your chance with one out of the junkyard).
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Thanks guys, looks like I'm going to try out the KYBs and hopefully I'll be happy with them, if not I'm going for the RS9000s so I'll be able to adjust to my liking.
I switched out the Gabriels on mine (didnt last long) to Bilstein.Much improved difference. They are very very stiff.
yep, I bet there is a huge difference going to Bilstein. Also heard great things about the OME. Just too pricey for me to take a gamble right now.
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I'm tried of these monroe sensatracs I have on right now... they are way too soft and have less than 10k miles. They are the right model number for my Pathfinder, but they feel like they don't belong on this truck (way too smushy ride). I mostly drive in the city so I am not looking for off-road shocks or lifted or what have you. Just want some personal feedback about how the ride quality and taking corners feel with Ranchos, EMU, KYBs or whatever other brands out there.
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What's common with our older models is that over time the "needle" for the speedo cable cracks. so when you put it in the cable in just spins inside the needle. The needle I'm referring to is the white piece on the end of the speedo cable that goes into the speedo cluster. You can pull it out and see the spring behind it. You can try super gluing it (I did and it's been holding up for 3 years now) and that should fix your problem.
you are absoulety correct. I wish you would have posted this like a year ago so when I researched the Wd21 speedo I would have seen your reply. what glue did you use? I even tried gorilla glue and failed.
With all my research I never found a definate answer about the cable tip "needle" being a "one-peice" to the speedo cable. Before I went on to replace the entire speedo cable assembly I tried so many different things (mainly tring to put the tip back onto the part that spins. So I tried the glue and after letting it sit in place and harden for a few days, then I drove around with it working for like 2 blocks and gave out. also tried to find a similar spring but longer to put more pressure to keep the tip in place also failed. I figured I could buy a similiar tip size and crimp it on, but I would have to do more trail and error. In the end I bit the bullet and it works. Stupid cable design, why would they make the tip out of plastic. and the way it attached is just plain dumb. Also, FYI I bought a $10 generic speedo cable with crimp on tip, but the problem with that was that the tranmission end did not have the "key".
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didu have to take the intake plenum off at all?
no I didn't remove anything, although w/o it in the way it would have been 90% easier. I just disconnected one of those hoses and helped a bit. I spent the majority of the time getting at the screws from the passenger side. it sucks but doable, goodluck.
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O ok so i got my dash all working now i got a replacement speedo for the cluster with almost the exact same miles as my truck. Now I need to replace my speedo cable itself because it spins but stops as soon as any pressure is put on it. (DO you think its the cable or the gear in the tcase?) I was looking at how i am going to get the cable off and it appears to be right behind the intake plenum. Is there a way to get at it with out takin the intake plenum off? I am not really sure I trust my self tearing that off lol. I was able to get the one screw on the drives side off but there ae still 2 screws that are right be hind the plenum that need to come off and i cant get at them. If anyone has a tool that they have used or a way to get them out let me know and i wil go that route. I really need to get this fixed. Also if anyone thinks its the gear let me know so i odnt need to go through this and find that out haha.
Like i said ifi take the cluster out and drive the cable is spinning but if i touch it with my finger it quits spinning.
yeah, I did this earlier this month. I just used a combination of a regular 10mm wrench, socket, and a phillips tip on a flexible 12inch. Lots of going back and forth with the 3 of them. I had sore forearms for 2 days afterwards.
putting it back on sucked even more, but suprisingly took me less time then expected. (cursing helped a lot though).
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well, FYI don't know if it's possible with the WD21 or benefit, but I once disconnected the main wiring harness from the ECU and poked it through the firewall when I pulled out an engine instead of removing all the connectors from the wiring harness. This was with a rotary when I swapped out an engine.
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your alternator is on skid row. remove the alty and take it somewhere to be tested.
I'm curious about the correlation between the ABS lights and the alternator
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Sometimes randomly I'll turn the key and get nothing (no clicks, engine turning over, etc.) other than the usual dash lights.
What I've noticed is that if I jiggle the auto transmission lever back and forth a few times it then would crank. Before I start ripping into my truck, has this happened to anyone or makes sense? I'm assuming there will be some wire or related from this area to the ignition?
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ouch, thanks guys
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I cannot tackle this job myself do to lack of tools and time. I need to find a shop because I always do maintence work on my own. How much should I expect to pay for a shop to swap out both lower ball joints on a WD21 (93 Pathfinder 4x4).
I just want an general estimation, so I could have an idea as to not get shafted.
Funniest thing yesterday when I went to the movies
in Off-Topic
Posted
good story, would read again A+