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Everything posted by Pathy87

  1. Update: I know this is old, but the oil pressure switch works fine. At low idle, it doesn't like to register much, but once up and going, the gauge reads good.
  2. Hey there, I have a 1987 Nissan Pathfinder, Auto, 4x4 with 212k miles. She starts up and idles fine, in neutral or park when reving the engine, it sounds smooth and good. When you put it in gear, and go, first gear is good. when it hits second, it acts like there is no power, or it flooding out, and kind of starts missing. This happens when its in Drive. If I select the gears on my own, and I wind out 1st gear to higher RPM's then shift it to 2nd, its happy. It runs great down the highway, and it likes higher RPM's. If I have it in Drive, and let the auto tranny do its thing, it doesn't like it, maybe because its shifting at lower RPM's and the dumping of the fuel is just killing it. If I manually shift into 2nd, trying to go up a hill, it just has no power, doesn't' want to really go anywhere, even when winding out 1st gear.It really struggles going up hills. Any ideas? Thanks!
  3. Thank you all for your suggestions! I will purchase that kit and see what I find. I sure hope its just a faulty sending unit or loose wire. To AdamZan : When I first start the truck in the morning it has ticking for the first 3 solid seconds or so until the oil gets slung up to where it needs to be, after that its fine. To answer SLARTIBARTFAST : When I bought the rig the sending unit didn't work at all. The pressure displayed 0 but no oil light was illuminated. (odd) I then purchased a $40 sending unit, put that in, showed 60psi until it reached operating temperature then it would drop to 0 and idle and about 10-15psi while driving. A wire came out of the sending unit plug and touched the frame, which then made the sending unit display 120psi. (again, no oil light illuminated). I drove it like that for a year or so. I finally bought another sending unit, eliminated the sending unit plug (made my own connection and soldered it) The oil pressure reads 60psi until it warms up and then drops to 0 at idle (oil light illuminates now when at 0), and shows maybe 15psi while driving after it has reached operating temperature. I'll buy that testing kit and update you guys with the results! Thanks again!
  4. Hi there, I have an 87 3.0 pathy with 212,000 miles on her. When I start it up, oil pressure is great, as the engine heats up, it drops lower and lower. Once at running temp, the oil pressure is at 0 and the oil light comes on. 5 days ago I changed the oil and filter, as well as a new sending unit put in (old one shorted out and was maxing out the oil pressure gauge). When its low, I don't hear knocking or anything, performance wise nothing changes. My pathy is running very rich right now, but not so rich that it thinned out the oil that quick. Rock auto has a cheap sending unit, and an expensive one, I tried the expensive one first, that did the same thing until a bare wire touched metal then shorted out the sending unit. This time I bought the cheap sending unit. Should I run thicker oil? Anything else I should look for? During my next oil change, should I have the filter and oil inspected for excess metal? I figure this old dog is just tired and about to die.
  5. I cut my rear bump stops in half and took off my rear sway bar, gives me lots of travel/drop in the rear
  6. Good to hear! Yea my "hub" store is about an hour away, which could be worse I guess, but NAPA, O Reillys and AutoZone are all roughly 3 minutes away from my house. I couldn't believe they didn't even have my brake shoes. RockAuto sent me an email with blow out close out priced items, mostly brake items! so I got new shoes for $7, hardware kit for $3, and another new rear wheel cylinder for $3. Just waiting until Friday to get them!
  7. Am I the only one who goes to NAPA, O-Reilly's or Autozone and find that they all don't really carry parts for my 87 Pathfinder?! I mean, all I needed was a rear brake cylinder, a common, small, cheap part and EVERYONE says, "Sorry, no stores have it in stock, but I can have it here tomorrow". How many thousands of these things are still on the road, and you don't carry parts in stock?! Guess I need to realize that my truck is 30 years old and I need to keep a spare car around for when I need to order the smallest common part - Rant over
  8. Just an Update - My Daily that had the balancer key break off has been running great with no issues. The Red one that had the timing gear slop, I bought two new keys, one for the timing gear and one for the balancer. Both fit nice and barley moved at all. Set the timing and that one fires right on up now too. Runs smooth but still has the limp mode at 3,000 rpm. I have not replaced the coolant temp sensor on the block yet, and I can see that the driver side injector isn't putting out fuel so hopefully just a swap of that sensor makes that injector fire, if not I have a spare injector to try.
  9. Thanks for the input. I decided to move forward with fixing the timing on the Red Pathfinder, until I removed the lower timing plate cover, and began to find TDC, I noticed that the timing gear on the crankshaft had a HUGE amount of play in it... pulled the timing belt off, and the timing gear slid right off. The key had sheered 90% of the way, and the back and forth action over time destroyed the keyhole for the timing gear and wrecked the timing gear itself. That explains why my cam gears were a couple teeth off, and why the car would sometimes run good and then not. SOO my red one is now useless as well. Case is closed on the Red Pathfinder, I am going to sell it as a parts car. As for my daily Pathfinder, I cleaned out the key hole for the balancer as best I could, set the key in place and pushed on the balancer off the Red Doner. It wasn't as solid as I wanted, but MUCH better than the one that got hollowed out. It still had back and forth movement, so I used Red Loctite the crank bolt and tightened that sucker as tight as I could possibly get it. I put everything back together, made sure my belts where not super tight, and let everything sit to cure over night. This morning she fired up, and drove to work just fine. I am taking it on the highway this afternoon to see how it does and try to regain some trust back with it. Thank you for all the help and input from everybody! Let the adventure continue.....
  10. So the bolt was easy to get off, and my neighbor lent be a harmonic balancer removal tool, made it a breeze because it was rusted on there good. Thank you for the location of the temp sensor, I found that location on an older post, and remove that as well. That was the extent of my work on my Red Pathfinder with the timing issue. THIS MORNING: Started up my daily driver Pathfinder to go to work, keep in mind I didn't touch it last night, and have never messed with the pulley's or crank shaft. My freaking harmonic balancer key either sheered off, or my crankshaft blew apart near the key hole, but either way, it was making a horrible sound so I limped it back home. Tore it down to the balancer and the balancer wiggled and fell right off..... AND my crank bolt was loose as a goose. I am guessing the bolt got loose, which helped the key wiggle and sheer off?! I cannot believe this happened a day after I took apart my Red Pathfinder. I do not have the funds to do any major repairs, and my daily pathfinder was going to end up being my wheeling vehicle, so what are my options now? Anybody experience this before? Can I just weld it on and call it good until it dies one day? I have never torn down or into an engine much before, but am mechanically inclined, but I am pretty sure to change out my crank shaft, requires me to tear down my entire engine.... I could be wrong. Let me know your thoughts on my new issue with my Daily Pathfinder!! I am at work right now and cannot mess with it until tonight, but I am guessing the balancer that was on it, is all gouged up and shouldn't be put back on the crank. Either the crank is ground down or the balancer is hollowed out, either way it came off way to easy, and I think even if I put a good key in there, and tight it back down, it wont last long.... I am all about back yard rigging it up, so JB Weld the crap out of it? Or actually weld it up, and if a timing belt ever goes, just say fskc it and part it out.... I am having such bad luck with these things, but love them to death. Thanks for any comments/ support
  11. Alright, so my #1 Piston is at TDC, I took off my cover for fun and find that my factory timing points are this far from matching up. If I roll to where it matches, my piston is already on its way down. I have not pulled the balancer off yet to check the crank timing point because I am letting it soak in Break Away because its on there so tight I am turning the engine over instead of tightening the puller any more. So is this an issue? To fix this would I pull the belt, and rotate both cam gears clockwise until the timing dots match up, then reinstall the belt? Is there something much worse or different I should be checking out?
  12. Thank you. So the Crank Pulley has 7 notches in it. How do I tell which mark is TDC? The pictures in the Chilton manual don't even seem to tell me which one is TDC on the pulley, it shows a totally different plate that has degree markings on it. My stationary plate has a single mark, then 7 marks on the pulley. Also, I have replaced my Intake Coolant temp sensor, and am unable to located the other temp sensor that is suppose to report to the ECU... where the heck is it hiding?! Thanks again for any help. I am currently looking through the Chilton manual and googling what I can
  13. The crankshaft pulley with the timing marks was pulled off and put back on not knowing where the original position was, so is there a way for me to check that and install it in the correct position? Would I be able to correct it by pulling by timing belt covers off, match up the factory timing dots, and then match the timing arrow at the 12 BTDC? Or is there another way? Thanks!
  14. Hello all, I have a 1988 Nissan Pathfinder 3.0 - What I have done: New plugs, wires, cap, rotor, coil, fuel filter, checked and swapped MAF with my 87 daily, Coolent temp sensor, grounds cleaned, electrical connections checked and cleaned, checked all 5 troubleshooting modes of the ECU and found no issues. What the issue is: I start the truck up and it idles okay. If I press the throttle really slow, it will rev up to 3k and bounce. If I press the gas moderately fast, it misfires badly and still bounces at 3k. I put in drive, and the same thing happens. Any suggestions would be fantastic! I do have a 1987 daily driver to swap parts off of to experiment with if needed. I will say in case this helps, I found that the PTC Relay waffle coned heater mixture was burnt up which burnt some wires (small one by the battery and the small wire near the actual heater mixture),I have an extra throttle body the seller included with the truck when I bought it so I swapped it out for that good one, and replaced the burnt wires. Not sure if that thing burnt up has anything to do with my rpm and misfire issue. Thank you for your help! !

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