vg33deguy
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Posts posted by vg33deguy
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As far as I understand unless I'm wrong the camber bolts are on the strut connected to the steering knuckle....so wouldn't replacing those two parts even things out. The control arm on that side is new as well. I'm just trying to think of what else could possibly be causing the need for them.
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I was told by 4 shops it was the only way they could do the alignment. The camber was horrific when I got it but it's ok now. I managed to counter the bent knuckle with about 3 1/2 threads inward but it's the fact that I know it shouldn't need them....tells me something else is wrong but I'm not sure what. It's not off or anything just don't want them on if they don't belong. I know camber bolts can fail and cause bigger issues. Im just trying to do as much as possible when we take the knuckle off and put new struts and the new knuckle.
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Got a question kinda related to struts. Have you had a camber kit? I'm trying to see what I need to do to make the necessary repairs to get rid of them. It's just the passenger side but I really would like to get it back to not needing them. Any ideas?
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So we just took care of both leaks and replaced the cat. Haven't gotten to the knock sensor but I'm noticing when I'm under the hood while the truck is running there is a whirring noise or fluttering when I pull the throttle wire? Anyone have any ideas? I can't pinpoint it as a pulley for sure. I just replaced the a/c idle pulley because the bearing was trashed so we know that isn't it. It sounds like it may be near the front passenger side of the engine. It's hard to tell but it almost sounds like it's coming from inside the engine. It's not a knock and at idle the engine is pretty quiet so I'm just at a loss.
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So im still going to relocate thw knock sensor but driving around and toying with a piece of exhaust pipe in place of the converter we cleared the codes but and suggestions on where to get a reaonable peice on a catalytic converter. Rh front next to the engine. I can find a cheap universal for the rear but front im having trouble finding it for less than 180! Would just get rid of it and just have the 2 but denvers emission laws care.
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Awesome. I saw that video I just didn't know if there had been anyone here who had luck doing this. I may give it a try but after messing with the car and looking into it it looks like this may be my passenger cat throwing both codes. My neighbor is a Nissan tech and he has seen a dirty cat cause a false knock. I guess it's not too bad. 200 for both parts but I may look into this cataclean. Seems to have very good reviews.
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Ok so looking into these sensors i see its common to get the p0420 when you get the knock code. Has anyone had any issues with relocation the sensor? I am going to order it and if it doesnt effect the vehicle i would like to relocate it to the top of the manifold.
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Thanks! Got all that done and today a few codes threw up. Had them before but cleared the p0420 with cataclean... Now its back and the knock sensor p0325. So now that fun begins! Never done them and it looks like someone already replaced the catylitic sensors so i probably have to change the whole thing....Looking good so far. sub'd
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So this was todays projects. Replaced the crappy taped air intake...turned out to be basically taped dryer hose. Then replaced the bumper retainer. The metal needs to be replaced after further inspection but thats only around 85. Im going stock with a guard and skid plate.
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Well if you just need the plastic. For the complete front Assembly with the chrome and small metal filler pieces it was I believe 110.
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54 bucks free ship for a black primed bumper on eBay. I literally have the exact same year and trim as you. Just ordered one for myself should be here tomorrow night. I'll have a few pictures of it here as soon as I put it on.
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Mine did the same thing but they also flickered off and on up front and the speakers in there are 4ohm out of a projection tv. I just bypassed my front amps it's red a black wires I believe? Before the harness for the door amps. Fader is on front 7 sounds ok but my best advise that I've gotten so far is look online for a set of Used ones unless you want to rewire the whole system. I'm ordering a complete set out of a q4 gave up trying to make it work well with the aftermarket speakers and damaged amps. Bose didn't make their stereos user friendly at all. Just had to custom fit a aftermarket deck in my neighbors Mercedes wasn't fun. After that I decided to keep mine factory and grin and bear buying used equipment.
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K so im ordering some parts and i thought i had some bearings on watch. Turns out they are the wrong size. I need to find the bearings for my pulleys. The a/c and alt bearings all i can find is pulleys and bearings. Trying to cut cost where i can so im trying to switch em out myself.. Any suggestions for getting the bearings for the r50?
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I know the q4 and altima front doors are the same. I need new speakers their pretty rotted but as bad as they are they sound good. May see what peoples luck has been with the used ones. Found an entire q4 system for 250 without the head unit. Just have to wait checking the salvage yards. Only 3 pathfinders in grand junction and non have the parts i need.
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Damn. The sound is pretty damn good hate to mess with it. Guess ill just buy a new front amp and some crossovers.
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Not really. The biggest thing is making sure its back in the same spot. It was pretty easy i dont know if the way we did it is suggested. But we just loosed it and propped it up. Cleaned the surface and dropped the new ones in. I was nervous but i went and got a laser alighnment right after and it turned out fine. It was a first for me. Lol
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Those big bolts on each side below the rack hold the bushings and rack in place. These are my new ones.
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. If the rack is loose at all their shot. Theirs 2. 1 on each side of the rack. Mine where beyond deatroyed cracked and missing big chuncks. Heres a pick under the front ive got a leaky hose that im replacing soon so the racks a bit wet.
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I almost replaced a motor mount. Not saying your case isnt a motor mount but i was getting some nasty lurches and it turned out to be rack bushings.
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Check your rack bushings. Mine did the same. I got my 97 for a steal and the rear arm bushings needed replaced and my rack wash shifting due to shot bushings.
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So has anyone repaired the bose module in the door? I just hooked up a stereo for the first time in here and the front modules both seem to be going out. The sound cuts randomly then goes out after about 20 minutes upfront. Looking online they want a god aweful amount for a used one.
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Just a few more before pictures. Im not sure how the next month will unfold and what will exactly get done yet so here are some before. The hood is partially sanded. Was flacky before. And yes that intake piece is taped....not me. New ones in the mail. The front end looks like its leaking bad but its extremely minor just a power steeringnhose also getting replaced along with the rotten wire wrap under the hood. New battery and anchor are in the corner and you can see she got picked a bit. Thats why the spare is in the back. Dont have the crank tool.
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I will. This has been a pretty smooth rescue for us so far!Awesome! please keep me updated, this is something i'm considering in the near future! (junkyard rescue)
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This is the one we are going to put on. The old one might not be useful. On top of the minor bend the threading for the wheel bearings is shot so you have to beat the bearing cover back on very carefully for the first 1/4 of the threading. Went through that changing the rotors.Odd request, but can I have this when you're done with it??
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Koni Strut Inserts
in 96-2004 R50 Pathfinders
Posted
Sweet. I'll check it out tomorrow. Just did both pulleys up front and prepped for the knock sensor so I may try a get this in tomorrow. Looks like it may be an easy fix.
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