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Everything posted by swedecore
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I created a new topic to be more specific in my initial post and to make future searching easier.
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Order of events below: - Two days ago I noticed a loss of power and a mile later the car basically died. I had my friend tow me back to work. - That evening the car starts up fine and I can drive it a few miles, I think to myself, huh, strange. - I drive it to work the next day and it does fine. - It dies again driving around on my lunch break. I get it back home and run all the diagnostics and I get the following information: - Error codes 11/32/34 - Air:Fuel mixture more than 5% lean - Crankshaft position sensor issue My HAYNES manual says the crankshaft position sensor is in the distributer, but I am also seeing that there is a sensor near the oil filter (see attached image) that is the crankshaft position sensor according to the internet for Xterras/Frontiers. Anyone know what that sensor in the image is? It is just behind the passenger side control arm/frame next to the oil filter towards the transmission. Any help is extremely appreciated! Also, I took a video of the sound of the engine when it is getting ready to die. I had to rev the engine up during diagnostics. I also have another video of when the problem first arose and I pulled over. Video is in YouTube video below:
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Happened again, same exact thing, I was able to drive it for ~10 miles no problem though.
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It was an EP34 from Novita. This was just for the turn signal/hazards. Not sure which one chimes when the lights or keys are on. Also... 4 hours later, and after taking out the flasher, the car runs fine, zero problems. What could possibly be happening???
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I'm driving along the road... start to feel a loss of power ~1/4 of the time, chug chug chug chug. I'm a mile from work, I think I can make it... I pull over to see what is going on and the car idles fine, but then over the next half mile it goes from 1/2 of the time to 3/4 of the time. Kind of sounded somewhat metal on metal, like maybe someone dropped an empty soda can on the ground. Then it got worse and worse and worse, so I pulled over and my coworker came by and pulled me over to work with my snatch strap. I let it sit for an hour, now it starts up again, but when I gun it it guntles and complains and yells (don't know a better way to explain it) and the engine does NOT sound happy. Also, totally probably unrelated, but this happened immediately after I left the Orielly's parking lot and put in a new turn signal flasher. Like immediately. Does anyone have an recommendations as to where to start looking? I am going to check timing with a timing light and check my spark plugs, but beyond that not sure what to do. Maybe check my fuel injectors? But this happened so suddenly. EDIT - 4 HOUR LATER, THE VEHICLE RUNS FINE... WHAT IS THIS MADNESS? I've got exhaust leaks on both sides, haven't done anything about em. Not sure if that matters?
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It seems like the lock mechanism on my driver side manual door lock has sheared where the key rotates and levers the mechanical lock open. Does anyone know if this is a replaceable component without having to change out the driver side key?
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I have a manual, the noise persists when revving with the clutch in. The noise exists when idling as well but it is quieter. I changed all my V belts about 5k miles ago and could have overtightened the ac belt and/or that pulley. I will take off the belts 1 at a time to try and identify the issue.
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Over the past 1000 miles I have been hearing a whirring/whizzig sound from 1-3k RPM upon acceleration. Video is here -> I bought my pathy used of a dealer at 130k miles (now at 141k) , had no history so i had him agree to change the crankshaft seals and the timing belt free of charge. I didnt know the water pump should be done then too. Anyways, I have no idea if the previous owner did the timing belt/water pump job.
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On the back of what? And are you talking about the hose coming off the EFI, or those that is just hanging out in space near the intake boot? Would I have to take off the intake manifold to reconnect it? I have driven about 300 miles since and it has been totally fine (even better mpg due to new plugs).
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Yes this is a VG30E, and how would it flash THROUGH codes? Don't I need to enable certain codes? Also, the ECU flashes are red/green simultaneous, not independent of each other.
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VG30E Not sure how it would cycle through different modes. This FLASHING I am talking about is both at the ECU (red & green together, not independently) as well as the CHECK ENGINE light. The fact it isn't red or green and it is both is strange to me.
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I replaced my valve cover gaskets and noticed a braided cloth covered rubber hose coming off of the back of the EFI, it was cut And I found a similar cut hose up near a cluster of hoses just below the intake hose connecting to the intake manifold
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My ECU Flashes: 5 Long 1 Short 2 Short 3 Long 4 Long I seem to be able to make out 51, but the others confuse me, perhaps the second is 11?