Marooncobra

Just watched your video clip. Are you sure the wheel nuts are tight? The sound is just like the wheel knocking against the hub. I did detect a bit of lateral movement of the wheel as well.

Found the photos. Looks like my camera makes new directories as it goes!! I am using a 50mm hole cutter as the tool to push the bushes 'in' and 'out' as I didn't have a socket large enough to do the job. I had to modify it with an angle grinder so it would fit within the bore of the bush holder. Unfortunately the cutter is the same colour blue as the new bushes but to avoid confussion it has slots cut in the side unlike the bushes that have a complete shell. I am not pushing on any other part of the new bushes apart from the shell. New Poly Bush & old Rubber bush Rear Link Bushes Pressing old bush out of rear link Setting up new Poly bush to fit in rear link arm Rear link and New Poly Bush fitted on vehicle Vehicle drives very well, handling improved, no sway on rough ground.

Removing rear bush from front control arm with 3 legged puller Another angle of 3 legged puller Pressing rear panhard rod bush in 1st phase. Note shoulder that has to be pushed into hole with drift whilst exerting the pressure from the press 2nd phase Panhard bar back on vehicle ready for tightening Stabiliser bushes fitted Closer shot of stabiliser bushes My camera looks like it must have had a fit as the pictures of pushing in the bushes on the rear links and front control arms are missing. Technology is great until it goes wrong!!!!

Photos at last. Many thanks Simon The 10 ton hydraulic press Another angle. No I am not an alcoholic, it is my beer stash for when the fridge runs out upstairs!! Anyone for a VB? Front control arm off without stripping down wheel station. Note ball joint still attached to stub axle Control arm ready for new bushes

Hi, Just thought I would show some pics of fitting new Poly bushes front and rear. Tools needed: Trolley Jack Axle Stands 10mm socket 12mm open jaw spanner 14mm ring spanner 17mm socket 17mm ring spanner 19mm socket 22mm socket Torque Wrench Drift Hammer Hacksaw 10 Ton Hydraulic Press (purchased off EBay AUS$130 new) Angle Grinder Drill & 6mm Drill Bit 3 leg puller Washing up liquid FRONT CONTROL ARMS 1. Jack up front of vehicle, place axle stands and remove road wheels. 2. As I wasn't replacing my front ball joints I simply undid the three mounting bolts holding the ball joint to the control arm, the two bolts holding the rear bush captive plate and the front bolt. Whole control arm is then off without having to take wheel station to bits. 3. The end bush I removed by using a three legged puller. Once removed the new poly bush slides on with no problem. 4. The front bush was a bit of a nightmare. Due to the curviture of the control arm I could not get it to fit on the press. Also the OE bush can only be pressed in one way, therefore it has to come out the reverse way it went in. Good old Nissan have fitted it so the shoulder obscures the control arm so even if I could have got it on the press there was no way to push it out using a socket!! Cunning means were required. A 6mm drill was used to drill through the bush at equal distances so I coud then press out the rubber/crush tube centre of the bush. An angle grinder was then used to remove the shoulder. A hacksaw was then used to cut through the bush shell. Take care not to cut through your control arm!! A hammer and drift was then used to remove the shell. All in all it took 45 mins. 5. Fitting of front bush was easy as the version of Poly bush was in two halves with seperate crush tube. I pushed the two halves in the control arm and then used the press to push the crush tube into the poly bush. 6. Control arm refitted but not fully tightened. Wheel replaced, car driven forward and backwards twice to settle suspension. Torque up bolts to all mounting points on control arm. Repeat for other side. REAR PANHARD ROD 7. Remove rear panhard rod from car, 1 x nut and 1 x bolt. Find socket of the same diameter of the bush and press out old bush. Quite alot of pressure is required but once the bush moves it is easy sailing. 8. Fitting of the new bushes was slightly tricky as the bush is one piece and has shoulders. I lubricated the bore of the panhard rod with washing up liquid and then used the press to generate a small amount of pressure on the bush. I then used a punch to push the shoulders of the bush into the hole. Once the shoulder was in all the way round I continued to use the press to push the bush into place. I then used the press to push the crush tube through the centre of the bush. 10. Refit the panhard rod and replace nut and bolt/nut assembly. Once vehicle is on the ground with road wheels fitted tighten to manufacturers torque. REAR STABALISER BUSHES 11. Whilst holding the stabaliser rod link with a 12mm open ended spanner use a 14mm ring spanner to loosen and remove the nut. You need to do both sides at the same time to allow the rod to drop through the holder and allow you to replace the bushes. Once complete retighten. There is no need to for the vehicle to be on the ground for this. REAR LINK ARMS 12. Biggest problem with the rear links was that I was doing the work on the garage floor and therefore did not have much space to loosen the bolts. Remove one link at a time and replace bushes. Refit link arm before taking the next link arm off or you will have real problems in realligning the axle back up. Not a problem if you are built like a body builder. 13. Again select a socket the same size as the bush and use the press to push it out. As I opted for the shelled poly bushes the refit is using the same socket to push it back in. I used washing up liquid again to act as a lubricant and it woirked really well. SUMMARY 12. The vehicel feels a lot tighter whilst driving now and I dont have any of the sloppy feel whilst driving on dirt roads. Just need to book it in for a wheel alignment next week and that should be it. I will, if can get it over a pit or on some ramps, check the tightness of all bolts once I have covered 500km. 13. The Hyd press was a life saver and well worth the money. The front control arm bush removal is not difficult for mechanically minded people but just take your time whilst hacksawing through the shell of the bush. I will try and upload the photos but I see from the page that the max is 150 kb and each photo is about 140 kb!!. I will try and load each one seperately

I actually purchased an Iwema black box just after I had the conversion done, see Iwema link below, but the company could not give me a wiring diagram due to the inbuilt coil in the dizzy. I have seen on JTW web site under their tech support a fix on how to modify the distributor to have an external coil, see JTW link, so I might revisit the problem. Having said that I really don't miss the acceleration that much, must be my age, as a near 2 ton car from standing to 60 kph drinks fuel regardless of what type of fuel is being sucked into the cylinders!!! Iwema link - http://www.chrisperfect.com/products/lpg_i..._processor.html JTW link - http://jimwolftechnology.com/wolfpdf/DISTR...20FOR%20MSD.PDF

LPG conversion is pretty straight forward but in Oz has to be fitted by qualified tech. In UK you can fit yourself so check your local laws. Basics parts are a cylinder for storage, HP pipework to carry liquided LPG to a regulator, LP pipework to carry liquid LPG to heat exchanger, LP pipework to carry LPG Gas to Inlet Manifold mixer valve, electrics for change over switch: Upsides: a. The fuel does burn cleaner as it is already a gas and therefore does not need to be atomised. b. Engines have been known to last a lot longer as the fuel is dry. On initial start up on petrol the fuel removes the oil film on the cylinder wall. With LPG because it is a dry fuel the oil film stays there aiding compression and reducing wear. As there is no carbon deposits formed in the combustion process there is no carbon matter passed into the oil. At a normal oil change (5K) on petrol my oil was black (carbon deposits in suspension). With LPG it is still as clean as when I filled it from the last oil change. c. LPG in Oz is $0.50 a litre, Unleaded petrol is $1.25. d. Oz Government gave a $2000 incentive to convert vehicles to LPG so it only cost me $400 for the conversion. e. I now have a range of approx 750 km without having to stop for fuel. (based on constant speed motorway/highway driving) Downsides: a. There is a slight power loss on acceleration (only noticable if you stamp your foot to the floor. Normal acceleration you wouldn't know). Couple of reasons. LPG has a higher octane rating but a lower specific heat capacity value. Due to the higher octane level you have to advance the ignition timing by about 6-7 degrees. As I still have the capability to swap back to petrol at the flick of a switch the timming needs to be a happy mediuum between the two fuels therefore both systems are slightly 'out' of timing. There are 'black boxes' that you can buy to sort this problem out but you need to do some mods to the distributor as it has a buit in coil and I don't know anyone yet who can give me a 100% guarantee it will work once I start stripping and rewiring the dizzy. b. The 80 ltr cylinder fits in the place where the spare wheel is located. You therefore have to sling your spare wheel in the trunk, on the roof or as I did buy a spare wheel carrier. c. You can only have the car inspected for its annual test by a garage certified in LPG. d. The engine runs hotter therefore the cooling fan is under more load. I have twin electrics and have noticed they quick in more often when I am sat stationary. When driving there is no problem as the air flowing over the radiator is sufficient to keep it cool. e. I had to replace my exhaust valves and valve seats as I had valve seat regression (noticed by increase tappet noises). I have since fitted an upper cylinder lubricator which atomises oil into the inlet manifold and protects the valve seats.

G'day All. Well I am back from my 6 week course, bl**dy depressing but it is done now. Hope to get the cams done soon, just waiting for a weekend when 'home command' allows me!! I have also just purchased a full set of front and rear poly bushes for the suspension, and a very nifty and cheap, God bless China, 10 Ton Hydraulic Press off Ebay to help press the old bushes out and the new ones in. I will take photos and post how easy it was to replace once complete.

Hi All, Just paid for my Poly Bushes Aus$410 (Inc GST) that includes: Front Control Arm Bushes (2 per Side, total 4 bushes) Rear Upper link (4 shelled bushes) Rear Lower link (4 shelled bushes) Rear Panhard Rod (2 shelled bushes) Rear Stabaliser Bar (8 bushes) Really looking forward to replacing them, just got to find a hyd press!!! Have seen one on Ebay for Aus$150, 6 ton capacity. Must be worth it as I have been quoted Aus$20 per bush. Bloke must have been dreaming!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Will be doing it in about 6 weeks as I am away on a course till then. My list of jobs is getting bigger: Replace cams with JTW sat in garage Replace Bushes Replace strut bearngs wash and polish car sit back and drink a big one!!! Anyone seen if there is a replacement front strut mounting bearing? The OEM version is plastic and I was hoping there may be a needle bearing type version out there?

Will hopefully get update on prices tomorrow as I have lost the quote I got from them. The link to their web site is http://www.lovells.com.au/products.php?p=u...1fba75ce004bb0c

Hi, Anyone got the link to companies that sell the poly bushes? Over in Oz I can only find Lovells who sell them and they are a bit pricey. Maybe cheaper to get from USA and pay the postage.

My cams have arrived!! Look the Dogs Boll**ks. The first thing I noticed was the increased size of area (Land) on the lobes. I thought to myself when I last had her stripped down for the LPG conversionhow small the lobes were. When I replace them I will take some photos for you all to see. Role on 8 weeks

Guys, Don't muck about. If you want the best lights you need to buy 'LightForce'. Visit their website http://www.lightforce.com/ They are polycarbonate bodies, with shaterproof parabolic lenses which you can adjust in beam width with a simple turn of the face (Same idea as a MagLight). They have been proven to work even after being hit with a shotgun at a short distance. I originally had Cibies fitted to my rig but changed them to Lightforce when I drove in my mates Landcruiser. You will not believe the power and distance. They won the Australian 4WD magazine driving light shootout in 2000 by a considerable long way, beating KC's, Hellas, Cibies, PIA, to name a few. The 240 XGT model won the Best Driving Light 2004 by 4WD magazine. If you really have big bucks (AUS $ 850 each) the 240 HID version has the ballasts built into the lamp and are waterproof. They have an effective beam of over 1.4 Km (0.88 mile) !!! They do them in 5 different models - 140 Lance, 170 Striker, 240 Blitz, 240 XGT and 240 HID models.

Many thanks for the comment on ratchet wrenches but they will only allow me to remove the coverplates at the rear of the heads. The Camshaft bolts that holds the camshaft in place are reccessed into the head by about 25 mm. The biggest pain will be if the end play on the camshafts is too great as you have to change washers to get the required end play. Standard 0.03 - 0.06 mm (0.0012 - 0.0024 in) Had a reply from 98silverpathy who has told me the cams are a great improvement. Just waiting for the post now and a delay of 6 weeks whilst I'm away.

Many thanks for info MichiganAve. Will take photos during strip and rebuild. Will then write up text to go with it. May be a while before I do it as the cams have got to come from USA + Rocker arms + Hydraulic lifters and I am away for 6 weeks at the end of this month.

Firstly many thanks to Slick. If we ever meet I owe you a beer!! At last I have got on to the forum. As I mentioned in my post, I have just rebuilt the engine so I knew about the bolts holding in the cams. It was a question of if there was sufficient room to get a socket in between the fire wall and head. Well as that is a big YES I am off to use my plastic on Ebay and JTW. I would still be interested in peoples comments if they have these cams fitted. I was going to take a load of photos and write an explanation of what I did to replace the cams but I note from the 'select file' you can only use 150K of space. Is it best to save the whole package and then send to the Web master of this site? Slick - you are on my Christmas list