crab
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Posts posted by crab
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So here is my 95. Finally got to drive it a bit today. Got it a couple weeks ago but needed to get it registered. So it's been parked since 2012 more or less for unknown reasons other than the girl who drove it had an accident of some kind and wiped out the passenger front corner. The guy I got it from took it apart to fix it but never did and it just sat in his yard collecting leaves and dust through the open sunroof. I straightened out the core support and fender enough to put it back on. Front bumper is gone and the pass bumper bracket is pushed back about an inch. I put the turn signals back on a la prowler style bolted to the brackets for now.
Took it over for an oil change today which it needed badly. Typically I do all my own wrenching but can't beat 25 bucks and not getting dirty sometimes! The shop manager said they smelled gas in the oil so I'm going to have to watch that, probably bad injector seals from sitting so long. I have a decent list of repairs that it needs, all typical maintenance stuff really. I do have a vacuum leak to track down soon. Idle fluctuates when the oil fill cap is removed running. Power steering hoses are leaking at the reservoir. Brakes, strut bushings, trans service. It runs good and smooth but has a pretty good tick from the passenger side valve cover unfortunately. That's it for now, great forum I feel very confident that I can fix any problems I encounter with all the info here!
So you were able to simply bolt the fender back on? I've been reading that they are welded on. I need to change the passenger side as well.
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I had an issue where the key wouldn't unlock either front door. It happened to both the same week. For me, it was a little yellow plastic connector piece in the door lock linkage. I think this is the video that helped me out:
Thanks!
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What I've been working on this afternoon.
Ashtray goes bye bye.
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ATF or graphite powder. WD-40 is ok, but it wears off after a while.
thanks.
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If your key won't turn in the lock it may just lubing. In the R50 the lock is an electrical switch just like on the arm rest inside. On sisters truck it was the part that they connects to, an electrical thingy connected to the machanical thingy the operates the rods for the inner and out door handles and the door latch. I think there are 5 rods with the pivot points lots of wire plugs and about 20 bolts and screws. There are acouple of metal plates I took out to try to fit my hands in there. Best thing is to have small hands and very long fingers.
what's good for lubing the door locks?
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Shouldn't even need to buy a panel removal tool, I just used an old butter knife to pop out the plastic clips holding the door panel. Just slide in under the clip then turn the knife in a twisting action to get them out. Usually after getting a couple out, there's enough room to get your hand in there and just start removing slowly and the rest pop out. There should be 14 clips IIRC.
But but....whatever happened to "any reason to buy a new tool"?
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Have you fixed your door locks yet? I swapped some parts from my old truck to my sisters truck to get hers working. We were surprized by every thing in there. On a R50 the key lock is just an electric switch...no mechanical connection at all to the door lock. You should be able to get a panel removal tool at any auto store for ten bucks.
thanks for the tips. you used the locks on your sister's truck? was there a number on the lock? I understand you need to give the dealer the code on the cylinder for them to give you matching keys. I am still thinking the key I use for the ignition is old and worn and hopefully that's the only reason it doesn't turn in the door,
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Front of the trans on the passenger side. It screws in and kinda sucks to get at. I think it's 18mm? 3/4 fits good enough though. I could only get to mine with a stubby wrench.
thanks. I live in the woods and being able to see while backing up is kinda important.
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It's manual. closest switch to the front of what?
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I changed the driver side bulb by removing the air filter. Thanks for the aiming info.
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Also, I have no backup lights when in reverse, but I did see both sides come on briefly when my girl was starting up the rig, so it's not the bulbs. Is the switch that engages the backup lights in the shifter, or down in the transmission?
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YES! New headlight switch from eBay solved the no high beams on one side issue. You guys are the best! Wish I could buy you all a beer or 3.
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Ah, yeah, the belt makes sense, they switched from round tooth to square tooth mid-93. No idea how they screwed up injectors, though, AFAIK the only difference in injectors between MPFI Pathfinders is spray pattern.
My '93 has that blanking plug on the dash as well, and a stock alarm that doesn't use it. I assume they either wanted to make a space to install aftermarket stuff or there was some JDM accessory that wasn't required for the US.
+1 on the FSM being the best source of info on these. So much good stuff in there. Some amusing pictures, as well.
I used to use a screwdriver to remove door cards, but I picked up one of these a while back and it's been a huge help. I did have to clean up a few sharp edges so it wouldn't scratch the door, and you want to make sure you're prying right at the clip so it doesn't pop the clip out of the crappy fiberboard door cards, but it works so much faster and better than jamming a screwdriver in there. It's also come in handy for removing hoses.
I'm feeling like the O rings were the culprit with the injectors, maybe a few thousandths too big? no amount of lube would get them in. The second set pushed in as expected.
the RockAuto belt was shorter; they both had square teeth. It would only go on WITHOUT the tensioner pulley. we struggled for almost an hour before heading to a NAPA.
I'm sure I'll use that hole in the dash for some after market lights. thanks
That wrench looks like a fine answer to a problem. Is there a thread on door panel removal?
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Considering a fairly straight body, no rust (I'm assuming) and that you should get another 100k miles at least, I'd say that was reasonable. Once you get things sorted out, I'm sure you'll like it...
Yeah, who knows... I had a locksmith come out and make me a new key to a car once; he did it by putting a blank into the drivers side door, jiggling it, looking at the printing on the metal, and filing it. Took him about 20 minutes, but it worked in every lock. Pretty neat, and after watching him, I think I understand how to do it. Never been that bored though...
Glad you took care of the T-belt right away, too many people ignore it. Did Rock Auto send you the wrong parts or did you order the wrong parts? That sucks regardless, I hate being into a job and not have what I need.
Can you provide a link to that '93 FSM? I'm sure a lot of people would be interested; '94 has been the earliest free, digital version available so far...
B
Sure, there's this one:
http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/Pathfinder/1993_Pathfinder/
I have another that's in the format of the others on the nicoclub site. Can't for the life of me remember where I downloaded. it. Is there a place I can upload it to? it's about 38Mb zipped.
My auto parts struggle may be typical for a Pathfinder; I've really only worked on VWs in the past, so there's no drama over whether the parts fit. They always do.
I ordered the correct parts from Rock. Everything in the timing belt kit was fine, except for the belt itself. Easily procured one that fit at the local NAPA.
The injectors were another story. Also from Rock, did not fit at all. We crushed one trying to use a c clamp to get it in. Gave up then spent another $300+ on another set, also at NAPA. Those went right in.
Brakes, same deal. Rear shoes were impossible to get ( that matched what was ion the car). Every store we went to gave us something that was different from what was on there, nothing fit. We adjusted the old shoes to get the ebrake working and left it at that for now.
Thanks for the idea on the locksmith.
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You're best bet is to download the FSM (Factory Service Manual).
As far as removing the door panels, you can buy the special tool to remove it, or if you're like me, you can use the flat syle wire stripper/crimper tool. Just open up the crimping end of the tool sliding the jaws inbetween the clip. close the jaw around the clip and leverage the board away from the door shell.
You can use wood glue diluted down slightly with water to glue back the cracked end of the door panel boards. I don't think it'd be strong enough for broken bits but it's worth a try.
I'm guessing that's a blank for an aftermarket alarm led light.
thanks. there ARE alarm remnants under the hood.
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Welcome, and wow, someone beat the tar out of that poor Pathfinder! I hope you got a good deal on it...
Maybe someone changed the ignition lock so the key for the doors and ignition are completely different? Did the locksmith actually try making a key just for the drivers side lock?
FYI, someone is parting out a 1995 in Sacramento, maybe you can get the full set of locks/ignition from him? Maybe some other parts as well? There are some differences between the '93 and the '95 (mainly trim/interior) but most parts should be the same; double check compatibility with a parts web site like Rock Auto, Autozone, etc.
There is a good thread on the timing belt in the Garage/How To section. Can't miss it...
Download the 1994 FSM from the pinned thread in the Garage section. Not all the wiring will be the same (as stated above), but things like door regulators, etc should be.
I'm not sure, search for it. I'm not help, I hate interior work because I'm the 'destroy all the clips' guy...
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Good deal? $800. Didn't feel like a deal for a few weeks, but now I'm coming around.
The locksmith was a mobile guy who came to the car before I drove it away. don't know what he did, but the ignition keys don't turn in the cylinder. I heard you need to give Nissan the cylinder number from the door lock itself.
Did the timing belt last weekend, thanks. So many parts dont fit when you buy them, but that's another forum topic. (the rock auto belt didn't fit, had to get a NAPA like what was in there. No problems. 2 of the 3 radiator hoses were nowhere near the right part, etc.)
I found a 93 FSM on that clio something site. Thanks for the encouragement.
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I did a write up on how to change a headlight bulb maybe check that out. There is another way of accessing the rear of the headlights but it involves removing the entire front grille, then you can unscrew the headlight adjusters all the way out and remove the bolts (don't lose them) then you can pivot the headlight out by swinging it to one side to have at the rear of the headlight. The headlight is connected to a metal bracket with a plastic ball joint at the base of it.
ah, excellent. So it seems to be designed to pivot out to the front of the car? makes more sense than the gymnastics of doing it the other way. I wish they still made sealed beams. 10 years between replacements.
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1 headlight, no High beam ( changed bulb, same symptoms)
That sounds like 2 different problems: 1) a bad ground and 2) possible switch that's overheated / carbonized. Links to either of these I do not know but I'm be willing to bet my last $21.42 that the ground wires are corroded or broken. (One of the major problems with the Pathy are the cheap grounds.... coulda and shoulda gone with better but they didn't.) I went with cable eye-rings under the body bolts that hold the fender on, crimped and sealed, painted over and RTV'ed over that. Looks frankenstein but works great.
thanks. I've got to get knowledgeable about the electrics. I hear there are separate hot leads for low and high beam. Separate grounds as well? unless the hot lead itself is toast.
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Now that the motor has had everything changed ( all in the sig), it's on to the myriad electric issues. If there are good threads for any of these issues, that's all I'm really asking for. Thanks.
No horn
1 headlight, no High beam ( changed bulb, same symptoms) This may be the headlight switch? Ordered one off ebay. mine has a screw in the side of it from the PO). everything needs changing on this $800 rig. But I'm already in love, so time to man up.
No backup lights ( took out one bulb, looked fine) by the way who is the sadist that designed the rear light assemblies? And the head lights , for that matter. Do you reach in from above, or remove the air cleaner on one side and the battery on the other? Links, people, I need links.
Doors do not lock or unlock with key. Afraid to try the electric lock from the drivers door. I might get stuck in there permanently.
Windows do not roll up on either rear door. It's January people, and one window is open. I have cardboard and plastic over the opening.
Whats the recommended way to remove the door panels?
I fixed the no clock/ no courtesy lights/no cabin lights issue. The rear cargo area light was smashed and shorted, as I hoped. Pull that out, change a fuse and voila, inside lights.
That's just the electrics that I need help with. There's more.....
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He is correct. There should be a switch mounted in the dash area for those fog lamps.
Here are the 2 sides of the dash. Anyone know what went in the round hole closest to the steering column?
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I dont have any more right now, but Ill upload them when I do. Thanks for the interest.
Here's the exterior:
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The windows are just based off mine when I got it, pulled off the rear door panels and found the regulators locked in the upper position using screws. Best to actually check for power and ground at the motor itself. I have a running light socket and bulb I use on stuff like that to verify power and the ability of the circuit to carry the load.
A three jaw puller should work on the crank pulley, I have a special one at work that uses the threaded holes in the pulley, I'll try to get a pic of that setup tomorrow.
My recommendation on the front end bushings and stuff is mainly due to having to take so much apart just to do one thing, if you are going to do ball joints you may as well do all the bushings. I got a set of polyurethane bushings for about $40 for the upper and lower arms, way cheaper and easier than replacing with rubber ones. Downfall being they are noisy.
With mine is pulled out both of my door lock cylinder and liberally sprayed WD40 into them and worked them with the key. Was able to get them both to work. I'm pretty sure you can get a full lockset from the dealership with both door lock cylinders, ignition cylinder and keys, but that's gonna cost some cash.
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as far as the windows and doors go, I have a multi-tester and limited knowledge of how it works. Any good links to circuit basics on a vehicle?
Also, I tried to remove one door panel and promptly popped the clip through the hardboard. Any threads on removing door panels with destroying anything?
Thanks again.
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I'm partial to the 93 model. The plastic trim for the vents were made of a brittle soft plastic what melted warped and broke over time In the sun
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thanks. The side vents dont bug me too much, but the center just looks like I was broken into. After 17 years in NYC, I know what that looks like. I need to cover that up with something.
Odd electric issues... engine work was easier
in 90-95 WD21 Pathfinders
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I found a locksmith who fixed my locks. Turns out the ignition key was just too old to work in the door. Changed the master door switch at the drivers position and at least 3 of the 4 windows go up and down, better than before. Now I need to replace the ridiculous speakers the PO put in the doors before I put it all back together.