DanF.
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Posts posted by DanF.
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Are those like the ones that you have? Did you need to install longer studs? I'll buy these right now if they work with no extra parts or fabricobbling.
I can just return the MM 435s to the store for a refund.
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Well, the "real" Rugged Ridge ones are way overpriced, but you just need to find the generic ones, which are usually under $90. The only difference between the two is a logo sticker. For example, these: http://www.ebay.com/itm291636320373.
Page won't load. eBay says it doesn't exist.
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I don't think it'd be too tough to grind out. When guys have been doing the Titan wheel swap (or similar), where they have to bore out the hole, they use a router with guide roller on the bit. A Dremel probably wouldn't be terrible. Just be mindful of heat in both scenarios, as it may damage the finish on outside of the center cap hole.
For the center cap, you could probably just put a thick o-ring around the recessed part and just wedge it in.
I know you got a good deal on the hubs, but couldn't you also return them (or resell them) and go with the other hub style and save all the trouble?
Yeah, I could return them, but I'm so close to getting these on. Plus the Rugged Ridge (I think that's what you have?) are three times what I paid.
I may make a run over to the local Homeless Despot and see if they have a carbide bit for my cordless drill. If my drill isn't powerful enough I'll be able to borrow something with more grunt from my father.
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Thanks for the reply and info.
I can only slide the hub in as far as that picture shows.
I'll spend more time looking for Nissan-specific spacers. I assume that these 1.5" spacers from Rugged Rocks should work: https://ruggedrocksoffroad.com/nissan-wheel-spacers-pair-by-rugged-rocks-1534-wide-6x5534-p-6724.html but I see lots of 4 pc. spacer sets for less than the RR 2pc. on eBay.
As always, I'm trying to do this on a less-than-advantageous budget, and wouldn't really be too bothered by missing the rear center caps. I bet with a bit of thinking I could come up with a way to remove the inner lip material and still retain the center caps with an expanding plug and magnets (shooting from the hip here....) Something like this:
How difficult would it be for me to grind that out? There isn't a ton of material, and I imagine a decent grinder attachment in a drill should be able to remove it just fine.
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I'm inclined to look into wheel spacers, as I can see a small lift in the future. I've been looking at various vendors and stuff on eBay. How would I know if I'd need to replace the stock wheel studs with longer studs?
Also, I've read in the various "wheel spacer" threads on this, and other Nissan websites, that Toyota spacers will work. Will any 6x5.5 6-lug spacer work? Are there certain brands or vendors that are better than others?
How do they affect steering/braking performance? I'm envisioning 1.5" spacers on all four corners. In the 10 minutes of internet searching, I've run across these:http://www.ebay.com/itm/4-WHEEL-SPACERS-6X5-5-1-5-INCH-THICK-12X1-5-STUDS-FITS-ALL-6-LUG-TOYOTA-/331638007761?hash=item4d372a67d1:g:LJoAAOSwd0BV3Tkt&vxp=mtr
How about them?
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Or would the rear drum cover up the bearings? I've never had a vehicle with drum brakes.
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My only worry would be that there'd be big openings on the rear wheels (no manual hubs to block off the openings) that would let in debris and hurt the rear bearings.
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Ran into a clearance issue installing Mile Marker 435 hubs with '04 SE wheels. You can see in this picture that the 100mm opening has a small concentric lip (5-6mm?) running along the inside of the opening. This lip is what the small plastic center caps clip onto, and it shrinks the opening down enough so that the manual locking hub won't fit.
Here is how far the manual hub will protrude through the opening. I removed the manual hub cap and it didn't help with fitment.
And here it is from the back. You can see how the manual hub can't even clear the plane of the wheel, however there is plenty of room around the base of the hub to fit into the wheel opening.
If you look at this picture from an old, stickied, post you can see that the hub doesn't mount flush, or on the same plane, as the wheel. It would need to be sitting 3/4"-1" or so into the wheel opening.
So my options, I think, are to grind the lip out of the center cap opening, or to buy wheel spacers that compensate for the hub not being able to be set further inside the wheel opening. I don't have a Dremel, but I do have a cordless drill, and I imagine I can find a grinding bit that'll fit in the drill chuck.
If I grind the lip, it should be fairly cheap. I would have to do all four wheels so I could rotate them during oil changes or other maintenance.
If I buy spacers I won't have to alter the wheels, but it'll cost me $200 or so for the four spacers, which I still need to see if they exist.
What do you fellas say?
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You can do it yourself if you want. There should be DIY's and if you need fabric hope into Jo-anns fabric.
Where are these DIYs? My center armrest is tearing, and I'd like to fix it up.
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Ours beeps and lights up when you lock it, but not when you unlock.
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Hi i bought a 97 pathfinder SE 4x4 and it has a code (P0400) that i cant figure out how to fix. So far I've replaced the EGR, the hoses and EGR vacuum solenoid. As well have checked for leaks but none! If you have any experience on what it may be it would greatly be appreciated! Sorry if theirs already a topic on this i couldn't find one!
Start here: http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/Pathfinder/1997_Pathfinder/ec.pdf
Scroll down to EC-76, then EC-78, where it'll refer you to EC-209, and EC-290.
Here is the parent directory for all R50 Nissan Pathfinders: http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/Pathfinder/ It helps to provide this link when helping others.
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Did you have any luck?
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Injectors, I think could be a possibility, but how would I test them? I've ran a few fuel treatments through the system opening it'd clean em' up.
I'm not a technician or anything, so I was just throwing out possible avenues to look into. Try reading some of the links here: https://www.google.com/search?client=opera&q=testing+fuel+injectors&sourceid=opera&ie=UTF-8&oe=UTF-8
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OP, it would be helpful to take some pictures/video of the parts you're referring to.
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Bad fuel injector(s)?
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Small update: MM 435s arrived in the mail. I won't be able to install them until this weekend, but I figured I'd pull them out of the box and oogle them for a few minutes.
Since the opening of the wheel is 100mm (3.937") and the widest diameter of the MM hub is 98.425 (3.875") then the wheel should have enough clearance to fit over the MM. However, I've been told there is a small lip on the inner opening of the wheel, that runs concentric to the hub. I'll have to see if this ends up being a clearance issue that requires a spacer.
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Unfortunately there were clearance issues with the front brake calipers so I had to pick up a set of 25mm spacers. This didnt scare me though I've ran massive 50mm spacers on my car for years to fill out the widebody with no problems.
What model spacers did you use?
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Take a look at the transfer case manual here: http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/Pathfinder/2004_Pathfinder/tf.pdf
It may point you where you need to go.
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I got some good feedback from RockAuto, and they said they would look into correcting their catalog, as well as contacting Timken, who has the parts listed incorrectly on their parts catalog. (****** source material)
I'm also writing to Timken now, and am half-serious about driving 10 minutes down the road to their nearby New Hampshire factory to explain it to them in person. (who am I kidding... I'll just email them.)
Thanks for your help so far.
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That Timken wheel hub (and all those wheels hubs shown erroneously under the 3.5L) are for the 2004 Pathfinder Armada. The 2004 application listings for the Pathfinder and Armada are screwy across the board...they basically list the Pathfinder has having both 3.5L and 5.6L engines because the Armada was just an edition like SE or LE, despite being a completely different truck. Nissan dropped Pathfinder from the name in 2005, but don't be surprised if your the parts counter rep still asks if your 04 has a V6 or V8.
And yes, you just need to replace the bearings. There are two per hub (inner and outer). Some don't come with races, and it's recommended to replace them as sets...check the RA descriptions and pics to see what's included. These are what I installed on my buddy's 02 a couple months ago:
WJB WTLM300811, front outer (race only)
WJB WTA37, front inner (bearing and race)
WJB WTLM300849, front outer (bearing only)
There's also a wheel seal (grease seal) to replace. I used SKF 22230, but any labeled as "front" or "front inner"will do.
See AX-7 for the component breakdown: http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/Pathfinder/2004_Pathfinder/ax.pdf
Thank you. I just realized this myself after 300 google searches for the last hour. I already emailed RockAuto, but I'll send another one their way. Do you mind if I just copy/pasta your explaination in my email?
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2004 SE Automatic 4x4
Timken SP500701 http://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=1116733&cc=1431977&jsn=13
I ordered two from RockAuto for the front end, and the shop that's installing them just called to say that they are the wrong parts, and won't fit. They also said that I just need to replace the bearing, not the entire assembly. I'm about to call RockAuto to confirm that this is the correct part for the 2004 SE 4x4, but also I need to order the bearings alone.
Is it two replacement bearings per side? What are the part #s?
I see Front outer: http://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=4583418&cc=1431977&jsn=10399&jsn=10399
And, Front Inner: http://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=4583331&cc=1431977&jsn=10400
Thanks.
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There might be more helpful info here about the app:
I spent some time browsing through all the threads, but there wasn't much info on practical uses, or benefits over Torque Pro. It seemed like it was a lot of, "how do I get it to connect to my car?"
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I just downloaded Car Gauge Pro ( signed up for Google surveys, and you get 15-30¢ per survey ---> free apps/games/etc...) and have heard that it offers some additional options over Torque Pro, which is what I've used for several years to monitor my cars and view/clear CEL codes.
What sort of options do I have with Car Gauge Pro specifically?
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I'm all jacked up on coffee, and the dog told me to buy the Mile Marker 435s for the hell of it.
So I did.
Turns out there is an active 30% off coupon code for AutoZone when you spend more than $50.00, and ship to your home. Code is SURPRISE30
My order was over $75.00, so I got the free shipping automatically, but then saved another $25.50. No reason not to buy them now.
Problem installing manual locking hubs - Advice?
in 96-2004 R50 Pathfinders
Posted
Thanks for chiming in. I was thinking about this method as well. Do you remember what router bit you used? I can't think of many routers that are made for alloy. My father is a carpenter by trade and has a bunch of routers. I may ask him to let me use his crappiest old router, but I don't know which sacrificial bit to purchase.