bigtimemcc

The gusset is the flat plate? I am not very tranny literate. I helped a guy rebuilt the TH350 from my impala on the tailgate of my truck, but thats all my experience. I dont know what to look for as far as wear and such. I talked to a Nissan mechanic today and he said it sounded like the splines stripped out of the converter. I think I am going to replace the converter, filter and flush the lines. Anything I should do while I have the tranny out? Anything to check for wear? BTW 88, that pathy of yours is friggen awesome. How much did that lift cost ya? And does removing the sway bar make the truck unsafe for daily driving?

Ok, the tranny cooler has already been installed. Lines have been cut off at the bottom of radiator. I unhooked one of the cooler lines, started it up and it shot tranny fluid everywhere in just a matter of a few seconds. So I guess I am looking at a Torque Converter/ input shaft problem. I was looking at the breakdown for R&R of the tranny in the manual. Everything looked as I had planned but it called for removing the gusset. I have no idea what a gusset is. There is no picture or description. I'm sure its a common part that they call by a funny name, but I dont know. Is it a mount, crossmember, or something like that? I have to order the Torque converter tomorrow, should take about a week to get here. If I do happen to need a new input shaft, where would I get one and how much should I expect to pay? Hopefully its not a junkyard special because I would hate to have to drop a tranny out of a donar just for that.

I had a minute today and looked for the tranny lines to the radiator and couldn't find them. I also noticed that there is cooler attached to the front of my radiator, is that for the power steering or has someone already put a tranny cooler on? If it is for the power steering, can I use it for the tranny cooler? PS cooler seems like a waste.

Oh my bad. I dont know these acronyms too well, LOL. ROFLMAO I will work on the truck more tomorrow, will check stick, pull off line and make sure fluid sprays everywhere when running, if not then I will check the filter and try again. If there was blockage I will see if a new filter and fluid fixes it, if not I will put a new converter (T#^%* C@#^%&) in and maybe that will do. I also got a cooler for it today. So if I get it working I will definately install it ASAP. You guys are a huge help, thanks for tolerating my ignorance.

Thanks, I will try the filter and fluid first. Couldnt hurt right? How would you tell if it was the pump or the converter? Just replace it and see? That sounds more difficult and expensive to me, should I take this thing to a shop? Burn it?

Hey guys, I have been working on this 93 Pathy 4x4 automatic for a couple of months now working out all the bugs. I was coming back from a fishing trip yestarday when my transmission crapped out on me. I was turning onto the highway on-ramp when it happened. It went to kick down and when it did it made pop sound (not loud) and then it was like the transmission was dissconnected from the motor. It will not move in any gear, wont even try. It also makes a "whirring" noise no matter if it is in park, drive, reverse, or nuetral. I had this happen once before in another ride, and it was the torque converter. Has anyone had this happen to them? My pathy has 133,000 miles on it. I thought usually when the tranny starts getting weak it will start to slip, lose reverse or a different gear. I let it sit overnight before I pulled it back to the shop. I thought maybe I'd try it again since it cooled off, but there is no change. It's like the tranny isn't even there. No movement, no clunks from shifting into gear, nothing. I've had trannys burn up, but they would always "try" to go in gear or slip under acceleration. If this thing needs a new tranny, I think I may just set fire to it. If it needs a new torque converter I can probably handle that, although, I have never worked on a 4x4 tranny. How difficult is it to install a new TC, and what all should I look forward to in this process. My thoughts: unhook linkage, remove bell housing bolts, drop the drive shaft in the rear, undo the cross member and tranny mounts, unbolt the TC from the flywheel, slide the tranny back, pull of the old TC, put in the new one and put it all back together...Does that sound right? Do I have to do anything to the transfer case or the front drive shaft? I can work on a car, so dont sugar coat anything.....I can take it. Thanks guys!!!

Fuel pressure is correct. Seems to run great first thing in the morning before it warms up.

I checked resistance on the tps and it is in working order. I also checked to temp sensor and the maf sensor

The engine was up to temp, drove it for 10 min. It was at about 700-800 rpms. The tps is in the middle, how do you adjust it properly. Ran diagnostic on the tps, and it works (red light comes on when you hit the gas) I ran the codes and it came back with 33, for Heated Oxygen Sensor. I reset the computer and ran it for about 5 mins, and checked the codes and it was 55, all good. I pulled the O2 out and cleaned it with CRC Electronics Cleaner (the stuff recommended on this site) a couple of weeks ago, before I put the new computer on it.

Ok, I timed it with a light today. I got it to 15 degrees BTDC and it doesnt run any better, maybe a little worse. I replaced the cap and rotor because I could hear it arc in the cap. What do you guys think.....

Gonna time it tomorrow. I have no idea when and if the timing belt was changed last (133k miles so far). How much is a belt, and how hard is it to put on? Should I buy a new tensioner while I'm in there, or just check the one in it? Also, where should the mark show on the balancer? Couple degrees to the left or right? Does anyone think I should start a new thread on this or maybe visit and existing thread? Ghostpath, any thoughts?

GOOD NEWS!!! I replaced the computer and that seems to have solved the biggest problem. Starts up with no smoke, runs much much smoother at idle, the idle is at the correct rpm, runs cooler and uses much less gas. But there is a new problem. (had to be, huh) I lose power under load. If I do anything but gently ease on the gas pedal it will bog down. Almost like the fuel pump is not putting out enough pressure and its starving for gas. But I seriously doubt that because it was getting way to much fuel before the new computer. I know the timing is off, but I havent had a chance to buy or borrow a light. If I accelerate slowly I can get it up to any speed. I put almost 200 miles on it today. With the a/c on it was very hard to keep it in overdrive. It would shift into OD when I got up to speed and eased off the gas, but there was not enough power to maintain that speed in OD (70 mph), and it would kick back down into 3rd. I noticed while applying light pressure on the pedal maintaining a constant speed, I could press on the pedal slightly more and the rps would drop by about 200 when it would "bog". I can punch it and it will speed up, but very slowly and sometimes stumble. Its like I'm hauling a trailer with a 2500 lb car on it. Any ideas? Would timing do all of that? Timed it by ear and got it as smooth as I could, testing by setting it and gassin' it till it ran the smoothest. Cap and rotor maybe? I thought I could hear maybe plug wire arc at times while sitting at idle. Coil? Could it not but putting out enough fire? Would seem odd since it was making fouled plugs burn a super rich mixture. I dont know. Do you?

We dont even have inspection here anymore. They stopped that 10 years ago, but even then they didnt check emissions. I kinda like the thunder down yonder, keep you awake on the long trails.

Ah, maybe you're right. We dont have emissions tests here where we are so I am not worried there, but I may just get a high flow cat and off with muffler. Get rid of restriction and the cat will quiet it down enough for me. It's not so much the HP gain but mpg loss of the thing being on there.

Hey guys, I really appreciate all the support I am getting on here, REALLY. You guys know your stuff. I checked the resistance on everything I could find specs for and everything checks out. I called the STEALERSHIP and asked if they had a way to check the ECU, and they said the only way was to have one from a running donor swapped out to see if that fixed the problem. Oh yeah, I could buy a new one for $970 and he was just itching to order it for me. I went to car-parts.com and fount one 200 miles away having it shipped here in a few days. The ECU that is on it has salvage yard writing on it. I am sure it is not the original, but it also looks questionable. There is some corrosion around the hole where the LEDs are. While I'm waiting for the part.......off with the cat. Gonna let the bolts set with some penetrating oil on them for a day then hollow that thing out. I heard the junk inside was worth some big bucks. Funny how one mans pain is another mans treasure Thanks guys!

I have another computer that I tried, but it would not hardly run at all with it hooked up. All the parts stores I have called and the salvage yards have told me that it had to be the same as what is in it now. Some other years can swap out with one another, but not the 93. Why, you got one in yer back pocket? (hopefully)

I live near Little Rock, Arkansas. I have checked every junk yard, feild, and back yard in this whole state. I think I may have found one about 400 miles away. They wanted $60 plus shipping for it, or I could get mine rebuilt for $300. The bad part is that it is year and model specific. Can only be from a 93 automatic trans 4x4. Havent found one yet. You ever heard of testing the ECU, is it possible? I used a multimeter to check it, the kind with a needle. I used the ohm setting, with no continuity there is infinite ohms, with continuity there is 0 ohms. It buried the needle to 0 ohms on all 3 wires.

I am glad someone is optimistic, cuz I definately am not. I have spend hours and hours all to no avail. And nobody I talk to has a clue what it could be. I have tried every suggestion given from every shop mechanic to shade tree mechanic. GRRRRRRRRR!!!

OK, I checked to continuity of all 3 wires on the maf sensor plug to the ecu. I have good continuity on all 3. The ecu still throws code 12 for MAF, and I am at a loss for what to do. Maybe the ECU is bad? The rig was under water at one point, so is it possible that the ECU got fried when it got wet? I dont know if it even is the original ECU, because this is how I got it, previous owner could have had it replaced. Is there any way to check the ECU to make sure it is operating correctly? As a side thought, if I junk the MFI and go for a carb set up, would I need to find a distributor to match? All carbed vehicles I have ever had always had a vacuum advance on the distributor to advance the timing with the engine speed. What do you think?

That sounds like a good idea. Wouldnt happen to know which pins in the ECU plug match the MAF do you, or know where this info could be found? I havent been able to find a wiring breakdown of this rig, or a vacuum diagram. Sure would like to get my hands on that stuff... It does have plenty of vacuum at the regulator. It actually runs better with that line off, primarily because the extra air lets the engine idle higher. I drove it with the line on and the line off, and there was no difference.

Ok, I replaced the tps, maf (twice), temp sensor, o2 sensor, fuel pessure regulator (twice), cleaned and wiggled every plug under the hood, ran the codes (comes back 12 for maf every time). MAF - since the computer spit out 12 everytime, I replaced the maf 2 times, and then figured maybe wire was broke or bad connection. To test this out, I simply unplugged the maf while running and it would run much much worse, plug it back in and it would go back to "normal". The truck has been underwater at some point, before I owned it. So I figure whatever can go wrong has or will. The carb seems like the easy fix. Fuel economy? Cant get any worse than it is now. Plus it would be easy to adjust. When I replaced the regulator the 2nd time I noticed that the rubber fuel return line had a kink in it, so I put a shorter hose to fix that problem. It did make it run "better" but not a total fix. Also, while it is idling, I can squeeze the fuel feed line almost shut and it will idle up and run GREAT. Untill you give it some throttle and it will die as it then is starved for fuel. I saw a site that sells a tbi intake converted to run a holley carb. I could put a 2 barrel on it be just fine. It said the intake would fit VG30 motor, that is what i have isnt it?

Hey guys, my 93 has been running BAD and I dont know what else to do. Have checked, clean, replaced almost everything on this rig and nothing helps. It gets way too much fuel, black sut out the tail pipe, and about 10 mpg. Idles at about 700 when its cold and about 200 when its warm, but always burning rich no matter what temp. So, I would like to, if possible, put a carburetor on this bad boy and do away with the efi altogether. I heard they put carbs on non US versions, will I be able to convert mine? Where to get one? Any advice would be a big help. Been working at this thing trying to get it running right for months, should I just trash it or what?

Did you already take it to the shop? If so what did they say the problem was (I know you would ask)? Let us know what the problem/solution was....save guys like us skinned knuckles. Thanks, John

I have the same problem with my 93 4x4 pathy. I have replaced maf, tps, plugs cap and rotor. The ECU gives me code 12, for MAF. I cleaned the old one, put a new one in, and still the same. I can pull the plug on the MAF while running and it will idle up for 1 second and then run super crappy. I unplugged the o2 sensor while running and no change. What do I do, take it to a shop? (yeah right, I still have my manhood) BTW, this place is awesome. Its nice to talk cars with people who know what the heck I'm talking about.