zendriver

My 98 has sat for two years and is going back on the road as a winter driver. The inner boots split, just from me working on the struts( I think) I don't have much more time to work on it or the expense of pulling them. Anyone use the split boot that glues together and can provide a good source? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Even though I have almost 300,000 on a 97 is in super shape with the exception of a camshaft is seized up from the distributor locking up. I just want to build it up for a winter beater for a wife who can't drive her sports car in the snow Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I did not realize there were two different engines. Was the last year for the 3.3 1999? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I'm sorry I just meant pulling an engine out of s wrecked 02' and putting it in a nice 97' Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Is this doable with a relatively low amount of grief compatible wise ? The 02' is a manual 87' automatic Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I have only had one code reader that also does ABS code, this one has a separate menu for make model even parts of the Vin number. It has a menu option for "Nissan" it just won't go any further than that Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I get the ABS dash light. My nearly new ODBIi/ABS code reader only give "pin not connected " type error, like it thinks it not plugged in properly, even though it wiil read engine codes and live data fine Any other easy to see the video? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I went one more tooth and it made it worse, so that must be the spot. looked at live data from my odbii reader and it showed 7 degrees or so at at idle, even though the timing light showed it way off. Just galt to have it running, so after a fix to the rear exhaust, it need to go out of the garage, so other vehciles can be repaired. Ill fiddle with it a little later. thanks for everyones help.

I did advance the distro one tooth CW and it would not fire at all, so it took it back 2 teeth ccw (1 ccw what it originally was). It started right up (Yay) but ran somewhat rough and the timing mark is about 11:00 which is much better. the timing adjustment is all the way back (retarded?) and when I tried to adjust it, it just ran worse.. the vehice drives ok (did nlot want to drive it too far) I'm going to try to advance it one more tooth this week and see what that does. Getting closer. The engine has 300K miles so it may be a little rough anyway but the body is in shape shape and we want to use it as a winter snow,driver only thanks

Yes, nothing much better, and it only get more wierd. I did do the timeing belt marks that all lined up, put the distro to cyl one. Soemtimes it starts right up, but idles rough. other it wont start at all. It idles ever rough and although i did get it to roughly accerlate some. it wont do it at all now. it starts right up, or not at all. I do have regular spark and im testing fuel pressure, but spraying strting fluid in the TB has never made any difference. the really wierd thing was when it was running even roughly, when it put the timing light on cly 1, the timing marks are at about 10:00, way far away from the timing pointer, telling me maybe the distro is still off? not sure what to look at next

yes it did look like that. The tooth count was that also Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I got it running rough (no ratiator reinstalled yet) etc, but someone needs to please explain this and TDC. I pull the timing belt covers.all three notches aligned. OK. The distro points to cyl 1. The engine should be at TDC right.? However. The when i put the harmonic balancer back on, the TDC mark is almost 40 degrees past the pointer, sitting at about 9 oclock. If i put a straw in the cylinder 1 moving the harmonic balancer either direction moves the straw (piston) down. Why does the manual state that TDC is set by finding the compression stroke then turning it ti the TDC mark. physically, it It does not work this way.

Yes the rotor seems to turn normally.

So, How can I tell if the timing belt has slipped? When the distro froze, it actually busted the mount off, so the engine took a pretty hard shot, so it seem possible it could have slipped, at least to me. just loosen and align the 3 points?

I have had the distriubter at cylinder one, even moving it a geartooth each with no better results. "Make sure you are looking at the correct mark for TDC on the crank". This is my problem, I think the belt has slipped.. I even had the timing belt covers off. Everything I have seen in books and videos states that if at TDC, the left-most crankshaft pully mark, should align at the timing point and at the same time, both cam gear marks should align with their alignemnt marks. I cannot get this to happen. Assuming I am not at TDC, if I rotate the crank 360 degrees, all threee points still do not align up. What I am looking for is the procedure to - without having the belt on, to set the crankshaft and each cam, so that the engins is at TDC, then reinstall the belt. The youtube videos either assume that you are replacing a belt on a already aligned engine, or they skip the procedure, of setting TDC and the cams prior to installing a new belt, if the old one broke.

My 97 May have had the timing belt slipped when the distributor froze. No matter how I set tdc or position the distributor I cannot get it to fire properly barely at all. I'd like to loosen the belt and realign The camshaft and crankshaft manually , to insure that is all aligned. Can anyone outline the alignment steps as if the belt had broken? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Trying to ensure that the timing Belt is lined up properly with the sprockets. 3.3l 98. This one had the distributor freeze and bust the bracket off. I had the timing belt top cover off I thought that I located the compression upstroke of the piston then I continue to rotate it till it was on the left notch on the crankshaft pulley. When I did that the camshaft marks would not line up with the dots. Turn it 360 and they still would not line up. Turned it 360 back. Removed the crankshaft pulley and lower cover. If I rotated around all three gear dots lineup., like they have never slipped at all. The timing pointer is then about 45° clockwise from the timing marks then Am I overthinking this or doing something wrong? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Finally got the bolt off of the crankshaft pulley. Took three seconds with my new craftsman 1-2" cordless impact driver Put a large gear puller on the outer pulleyThe whole thing has move some but it seems like the outer part is separating from the inner part that's rubberized in between, I don't want to ruin it if I haven't already but it appears that the inner one has moved very little. Do I use to need to use something different to connect to it? I don't want to be scouting for another crankshaft pulley. And I'd like to get this job done. Thanks Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I have to remove the crankshaft pully on the 97. I don't have enough compressed air, to use ian impact gun so I'm going to have to use a breaker bar. I also don't have a chain wrench or a strap wrench heavy enough to hold the pulley while I turn the nut. Any workarounds? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Trying to bring a 97 back to life that it had a frozen distributor pulled. I I believe I can get it aligned to TDC but I don't know if I need to disconnect the PCM module(or anything else) to to properly time it to 15°. Any help appreciated Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk