IchWarriorMkII
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Posts posted by IchWarriorMkII
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http://www.rocky-road.com/nissan-pathfinder-lift-kit.html
Did I misread that? I need to buy the strut and the spring?
But it's a 1.75" lift according to that website
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OME makes 1.75" front struts....
$105 a piece... I think I might just throw those on with my rear spacers and call it good.
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You'll need to disassemble the strut assembly to remove them. That top plate has the studs pressed in, and they won't clear the upper spring seat for removal once loosened if the strut is still assembled. (At least that was the case for me.)
A clamp-type ball joint press, a vise and sockets, or a hammer ought to work (I'd recommend them in that order). You can rent the 1st item from any auto parts store for $0.
Put the new bolts in and re-assemble the strut. Chances are the new bolts won't be knurled at the ends, so they'll be loose (they're probably hex bolts). You can tack weld them, or put some JB Weld on the heads, but I was able to use an offset wrench wedged against metal to keep them from spinning while putting the nuts on.
If you bought spacers from Fleurys (4x4Design), he threads his holes so that you don't have that problem. Before re-assembling the strut assembly, sandwich the top plate with the threaded spacers and bolts.
There are a few posts about strut disassembly if thats new to you. It's a pretty straight-forward process, and the tools for it can also be rented for free.
Awesome post. Thanks.
Now to drive the stink bug around for a week until I have time to do the front end
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There is no head on the bolts, they are pressed in I'm assuming. I didn't know if I could hammer them out or not.
I'm refering to the 3 bolts, on the top of the strut.
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So I bought a spacer style lift for the Pathfinder.
The front spacer only has 3 holes, and came with longer bolts. That looks okay but..... The strut has studs that are pressed in to the top of the strut. How do I get them out so the spacer and longer bolts can drop in?
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Sweet, I was just thinking about finding spacers, or getting the larger coil springs. This fits the budget a lot better
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My timing belt had the 3 lines on it to mark up with the dimples on each sprocket. worked out great!
Got it together last night, and it runs... not sure for how long, but she runs for now!
Thanks for the advice guys.
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Pushed it outside to wash it off:
Stunning, I know
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Anyone have any better pictures on the the timing alignment with the two cam shafts and the crank pulley?
I checked out the link, but I can't figure out the exact timing with the cam shafts in regards to the bottom pulley
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Do you think that's coming from the water pump that I'm replacing?
Kind of hoping I don't have a serious issue, can't really tell whats what till I get it washed off.
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Got things loose:
It's a dirty girl
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Thanks for the reply guys, that's a helpful write up.
Depressing, slightly, but helpful
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I'm doing my timing belt, replacing the water pump also...
The bottom bolt on the timing belt cover, it jams up against the crank pulley.
Is there any secret to getting it off without removing the crank pulley? Or it's just got to come off?
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I'm close to Grand Junction.
Swapping the wife out of her PF and going to make it my DD and hunting rig.
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Most of us get the whole TB kit from Alkorahil. It's about 300 for everything. Including belts hoses seals etc. And its all genuine Nissan and will last another 100k easily.
Sent from my Moto X
Does he have a website?
I've tracked him down in the Vendor section, but don't see a way to get to an online store.
Thanks everyone!
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They were KYB shocks.
I don't feel any other wobble, just vertical bouncing when I hit bumps in the road.
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I have a 98 Pathfinder (Well, it says 99, but only 98 headlights fit it?
) It's got 184K on the clock and a water pump that's dumping a lot of coolant.I fear greatly that this poor vehicle has been used and abused and never maintained. (Because it also leaks coolant from the head somewhere and oil from somewhere to be determined.) While I have this thing pulled down looking for those problems, what else would you guys recommend replacing?
I have:
- Timing Belt
- Water pump
- Head Gasket
- Valve Cover Gasket
Earlier this year, I replaced the front struts, rear shocks and several other maintenance items and now the back end is bouncy is heck. Anyone ever have issues with perhaps the wrong shocks being sold? If I would have kept the old ones I would have put them back on... these new ones aren't valved correctly or something
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I read that same advice on another post here, and I'm going to go find it again and make a list.
Probably need to make a list of all the service items that should have been done at the 100K or 150K mile mark and take care of those as well.
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It's a worn out piece of junk.
Women drivers for 184K miles.
Married the girl, and now her junker is my problem. It is spewing coolant from the water pump area, did some reading and I think this problem is going to be a little bit involved.
Thinking I should just buy a new motor for it and start over
Shoot, just realized my profile says 1988 and it's a 1998.
Installing a lift, question about the front struts
in 96-2004 R50 Pathfinders
Posted · Edited by IchWarriorMkII
They are 1.5" for the frontI bought them off Ebay.
For the rear, they looked like 2" and I bought the Bilstien 5100's that were 2" longer than stock shocks.
I was hoping for an easy out, the spring/strut that is 1.75" longer than stock that I could just swap out and not have to fight with the studs to get the spacer to work. Not gonna happen, so I might as well get used to the fight and go with the spacers.