paul.thoroughgood.3
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Posts posted by paul.thoroughgood.3
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Damn, camber bolts on Australia cost about $160 a pair, we get shafted down here
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It is a relatively simple switch, the only problem I encountered (on a time frame) one of the nuts for front left link pin was seized, thankfully I had a 2nd vehicle and could get to the wreckers and pick one up, just ground the old one off. Otherwise I would've been stuck
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A bit of silicone spray inside the rubber track helps the glass slide through
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Difference between 245 75 (rear) to 285 75 (front)
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Is that fan gonna pull enough air through the radiator, I thought it best to have clutch fan inside and thermo outside pushing air into radiator
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If I'm thinking of the correct part, I saw someone on here using 1.5" galv pipe and just compressed the ends and used existing LCA bolts. He did it mainly as a support for his skid plate though
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I replaced it, and comparing the 2, the new one had a bit more drag, so maybe it wasn't kicking in as soon as it should
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Went to get my air con serviced, apparently I need to replace my engine fan. It seems to be pushing a lot of air to me. Does anyone know why I'd need to do this?
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Thanks hawairish, looking good
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I'd agree with that, procastinational. Turning into car parks and driveways etc the radius is tighter when it's the same side of the road
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I think there was a set of changes after the 2000 model. Mine is (built 7/00) but first registered 01, it has passenger key lock. It is registered 01 model, insured as an 01, but when I order parts I have to be sure to mention exact build date
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Good write up, unfortunately, I can't see any of the pics
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How's that sfd coming along
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Not sure of the exact length but I read somewhere that they using the honda linkage on the 4" sfd
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YouTube has been one of my best friends while working on my pathy (as long as you can find the relative vid). It's not always exact but it gives you a place to start. When I did my lift I used 3 spring compressors to minimise the risk of the spring "jumping out" and borrowed a mates snap-on cordless rattle gun as it had plenty of torque and control
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I'm not as tech savvy as these guys, but have you looked into the coilrite airbag system, you can get them in Australia for under $300. Not sure if it'll give you the drop though. Talk to a shop that specifically "repairs" springs, not sells springs, they'll tell you straight up
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When I bought my pathy, I thought the ride was pretty good but I was hell bent on doing the 2" lift. I was more than surprised to see just how poor the back shocks were. It wouldn't have been long before they would've been causing issues
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True, didn't really think that through lol just popped into my head while looking at possible mounts for bar work. Seems like sfd is the way to go if I can ever afford it haha
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Was thinking today...what if someone made a longer lower control arm? If the control arm pushed the strut further out, it'd give less neg camber, more travel and wouldn't require sfd. At first glance, it'd stress the cv's more, but if you went 3" longer, you'd get 2" more lift with the same angle on cv's.
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Yeah I know, but when I park and listen to the tyre grind, I'm like $5, $10, $15 of tread lol
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Tight lock, referring to the turn radius, but the tighter the wheels are turned increases the positive camber. i.e top of tyre is laying out a bit.I have Toyo AT-IIs, don't even bring up treadwear
As much as they wobble the tread on them should last until the next millenium. 45k on them and still has tons of tread. Anyway, what exactly is "tight lock?"I have my alignment set at 0 deg, at full lock though, it probably hits 4 deg positive, you can hear the tyres clawing at the road
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BFGoodrich AT's (which I run) are meant to be run at around 44psi for normal driving but with the light weight of the pathy I run about 35psi, they wear really good, the only "feathering" I'm pretty sure comes from the tight lock the pathy offers. For longer trips I would definitely boost to 40psi
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I think with a higher front bar and possibly change to rubber mount flares, 33's would fit but it's only a thought atm with wider 31's on some neg offset rims will give me the look without issues. I'd like to ditch the side steps but they are handy for my kids getting in and out so sliders might work well. I haven't priced bars here cause I want to have a go myself, but when I put a TJM bar on my patrol it was $1700
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Hawairish, that pic is hilarious, I haven't really got any set plans as such, I want to beef it up a bit, some neg offset rims with 31" Muds or even 33's if they fit and I'll probably fab up front and rear bars, if I had a spare 10k lying around it'd make things much easier lol not sure on a snorkel yet as I like the clean lines up top
How compatible are nissan's
in 96-2004 R50 Pathfinders
Posted
Kyle, am I right in thinking the 300zx box is compatible? Just have something in the back of my head telling me it is