AirChime

Yup. It worked just right. I never thought about that, but it makes total sense. Like I said, it was cold and my fingers ached, plus I was exhausted. I guess I wasnt thinking straight. I got everything reassembled and it works. Now there is a little smoke, but I suspect thats from greasy finger prints on the rotors.

I do have the FSM downloaded, but it doesnt say much about changing rotors. Thank you for the tip, I'll give it a try.

Hey folks, I am need of some help with the changing of the rotors on my 04 Pathfinder SE. I have the rotors off on both wheels. They were scarred up pretty bad by the previous owner, and I was getting a grinding noise. Anyways, the rotors and pads are AZ's Duralast Gold Series. I know this may be poo-pooed but meh, its what was available.The pads look good, but the scoring is deep on the rotors, so I think the pads dont have enough to grab. I decided just changing the rotors would be bad, so I am changing both rotors and pads. So I have both rotors off. I started to re-install them, one at a time, when I noticed that after I had the rotor on as far as it would go, the hub installed into the rotor, bearing packed with grease, wheel bearing lock nut, lock washer and screws, and I cant think of the name right now but it attaches via 6 small nuts, I dont have enough room to put that split ring back on. Anyways, I tried a few more times, but the sun was down, it is cold, and my fingers dont work well in the cold. So I ask yall, what am I screwing up? Do I not have something lined up correctly? Did I not put something in correctly? Where did I go wrong?

Cats changed, turns out it was the upstream cats on both sides. Transmission shop changed them for free when they serviced the transmission. I also got a good warranty with all the repairs.

Transmission fixed. Upstream cats changed. O2 sensors changed. R50 runs very goodly now

Downstream are on the left Upstream on the right

Problem solved. Problem staying solved! I hit both O2 sensors with PB Blast every few days, and waited for warmer weather. Today I tried, and they came right off. No fuss. THey are in terrible shape. There's no two ways about it, they were destroyed. I will get some pics up later tonight after the Cowboys lose and I am done screaming at them through them TV. R3DNICK, what are yall getting on the cats? Got any deals?

Yes, I am using an O2 sensor socket. There are all kinds of hoses, both metal and rubber, in the way. Even if I remove some of the hoses, there still isnt much room down there. I wonder if I remove the heater hose, or whatever its called, if that will introduce air into the line (thus causing bubbles) and lead to a whole new set of problems.

Man! After a week of messing with them, I still cant seem to get the upstream O2 sensors out. I can slip the socket onto the upstream right O2 sensor, hook up some extensions, but I cant get the damned thing off. I dont know if the socket isnt on the sensor all the way on the sensor or what, but I am frustrated. So I ask again, does anyone have a technique to get these things out?

Oh, one other question. After I get the two upstream O2 sensors changed, and if that is the problem, what do I do afterwards? Do I disconnect the battery and reset the computer, or do I just drive it to Autozone and have the codes read again? With my Ford I had to reset the computer by disconnect the battery and after reconnecting, I had to drive it for 75 miles. Given the current transmission issues, I am leery about driving it at all.

OK, today I got two of the o2 sensors, and they were a bit of a pain in the arse. It turns out the two I replaced the two downstream sensors. I dont know much about O2 sensors, but these were coated black with baked on gunk. I'll take a pic later, if you care. I tried changing the two upstream sensors, with absolutely no joy. I even rented an O2 sensor wrench from Autozone. I can get the wrench on it, but I cant turn it. I noticed the box for said O2 sensor says its for Fords, so that may play a role. I will stop by Autozone tomorrow to make sure they dont have a Nissan specific wrench. I would appreciate any other suggestions or techniques.

Sorry I havent updated anything, but there really isnt anything to update. I have been working long, tired hours, but I did order the correct 4 O2 sensors. I figure for the $270 spent, if they solve the issue, that great. If not, they probably needed changing anyways. My neighbor, who is the son of mechanic shop owner that dealt with Nissans, Toyotas, etc is going to help me install them. My question is if they dont solve the problems, and it is the Bank 1 and Bank 2 converters, which ones are they? I scored a couple of locomotive ditch lights at an auction this week. Your LED lightbars will weep because of the output and throw of these.

I know, bro. Those comments werent in any way directed at you. You've been the best help I could find at that, or any, Nissan dealership.

I forgot to mention that I will be changing the O2 sensors out. Am I correct in assuming there are 4 of them? Your thoughts on these: NTK Upstream Left: http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=1643118&cc=1431977 NTK Upstream Right: http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=1644020&cc=1431977 NTK Downstream Left: http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=1644446&cc=1431977 NTK Downstream Right: http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=1644672&cc=1431977

Is the MAF in the air intake line between the filter and the engine? I ask because thats where Ford has them, and I have cleaned it before. I'll go get a can of MAF cleaner shortly. As for the catalytic converters, I dont know which ones to replace. That is the issue. Is it the two up front or the two in the rear? If I had that info, my order would have been placed on Monday. I have no qualms about ordering some O2 sensors either. I was actually planning on it.

So the transmission is acting up, and I will get it fixed. The transmission shop has offered to install new catalytic converters for free, which would save me a lot of money and time. If I go off of what a dealership and parts store say, it would stand to reason that the catalytic converters are the issue. I dont mind checking the air flow meter, but I dont know where its at or what to look for. O2 sensors were easy to replace on my last vehicle, is it safe to assume they are easy on this one, and that I could change them at a later date

I cant get a hold of the service adviser at Nissan of McKinney. I wont bother trying anymore. I keep getting pushed off to other advisers that seem to not be able to help me. This is what the Autozone tape says: "Catalytic efficiency low-bank 1. Explanation: The oxygen sensors monitor the catalytic converters ability to store oxygen. Probable cause: 1. Catalytic converter defective (failure possibly due to 2, 3 or 4) 2. Engine misfire 3. Large vacuum leak 4. Engine oil leakage into exhaust valve guide, seals, piston rings"

I dont want to drive it due to the transmission stuff. That and the issue with the CEL. I will try and get a hold of Rob in the AM again. ETA: where is the air flow meter, and how would I know if its bad?

I dont know that the cats went bad at the same time. They could have gone bad at different times.

Now these are the Autozone codes, so take that for what its worth. P0420 Bank 2 P0430 Bank 1

No. Not that I remember anyways. I'll look around, but if not, I'll limp it to Autozone after the game.

The dealership is closed today, will Autozone's code reader work?

OK, so I got ripped off on a 2004 Nissan Pathfinder SE, but I think I am going to stick with it. I took it in to a Nissan dealership for a recall, and they did a diagnostic. Seller disconnected the CEL, and Bank 1 and Bank 2 catalytic converters are shot. Yay me! Transmission started acting up this week, but luckily it shouldnt be too bad to fix. The transmission shop said they would install the catalytic convertors for me for free, if I bring them the parts. So I called RockAuto, and they show "Direct Fit" and "Exact Fit" replacement catalytic converters. Some of the pictures attached to the products have a "pipe" that doglegs. Others dont, but in the product description make it sound like it will come with them. The I see that some are called a "Pre-Converter". I get confused and call RockAuto. They are confused. They say there are four catalytic converters, not two (I mentioned Bank 1 and Bank 2). When one needs a Bank 1 and a Bank 2 catalytic converter does that mean they need front left and front rear, or rear left and rear right? Thanks in advance.

Robert told me that the Bank 1 and Bank 2 catalytic converters were bad. I have no idea what the codes were.

OK, the transmission issue is pretty much resolved and wasnt too bad. It will be taken care of this next week. They said if I brought them the needed catalytic converters that they would install them for free. I slept late today, and missed the 30% sale at NAPA today. I like sleep, big fan. So I have been looking on RockAuto.com. However I dont know which ones to get, and I was hoping ya'll could help me out with that. http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=4960788&cc=1431977 http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=1317305&cc=1431977 http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=1317790&cc=1431977 http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=4960785&cc=1431977