JeffsR50

ok, now i may be getting warmer. Open the gas cap? pretty sure its sucking air in, not blowing air out. hmmm. this is not normal, is it? perhaps a bad pressure sensor is not opening the evap valve and venting properly? wow pressure sensor $362.99 autozone. yikes!

I didnt really mess with my tps, unfortunately my reader is el-cheapo, it does provide some freeze frame info but thats it over the actual codes. First thing in the morning? she starts first crank. drive to work, turn it off. ... try to start right away? cranks and cranks but wont turn over. Ran great getting me there. let it sit for a few hours.. will usually start on the second try -several cranks. a little squirt of starting fluid into the intake - (been using the iac port before the throttle plate) starts every time. still leaning toward the fuel injectors leaking, BUT the hard start is immediate after shutting her off. I did notice that on one of nissans service reports they suggested disconnecting the evap pressure sensor prior to blowing out the charcoal. (didnt do that) I wonder if Im not getting some kind of vapor lock as a result of the pressure sensor taking a dump? I know that many of us dont believe the evap can mess up the whole show, but when I look up "hard starting when warm" in the service manual, faulty evap system is one of the possible causes. not sure exactly how to test that sucker.

yep I knew how important the line-up was- I know I nailed the right tooth and the rotor was aimed right ..I even marked the housing and lined it up just like the prev distrib. ..my main question is whether it might have been out in the first place, but really she does run pretty well once were going down the road. no overheating at all...main issue is truly the starting...hoping maybe that the throttle cam might have been doing it? .(please please )..yeah that might be asking a bit much. we'll see. next is fuel pressure kit and timing light 40$ harbor freight.

yeah I always try it a few good cranks prior to resorting to the fluid...I did replace the fuel filter and pump (pain in the arse that pump was), im looking to get a fuel pressure kit to test my system specifically after the key is turned off....... on the other hand, I did solve my high idle problem! -by a stretch of imagination, I determined that my fast idle should force my attention to the (what the heck) "fast idle cam". Yeppers- there it was, the cam itself at a full warm temp and opened all the way, yet still keeping the throttle from closing all the way to the sacred factory screw. A little tightening on the cam screw, just enough to let the throttle close, and voila' 750 rpm...yay!

thanks very much for the help guys - yep fix I do have a obd11 reader (the simple cheap one from harbor freight) - although I know someone who has a fancier one that digs deeper ..Im thinking of having him come over and see what info he can get. -no check engine codes as of right now after driving for several days. - tried to get to the CKP over the weekend - no way Im getting my arm up into there without removing exhaust etc. dammit!! - MAF is crystal clean. Finally got the new evap canister installed, pretty sure the charcoal is all blown out.. - the other interesting thing to me in all of this is the fact that - when shes hard starting? a little starting fluid in the intake and she fires right up and runs great other than the fast idle.

ok - yep KS can wait. ...and DOH !! my warm start issue is back?! only occasionally, and she runs very good - starts right up when cold, although her idle is a bit high (1300) - Im wondering if my ignition timing might be a bit off after replacing the distrib. - my next endeavour will be to take off and clean the crankshaft position sensor. Ive heard that metal shavings and dirt on it can cause the symptoms that Im having. Probably try that tommorow. She carried me right up the hill last week camping - despite these few issues I was proud of her

still plan on doing the knock sensor relocation - just ordered parts online KS and harness 28$ w shipping. called the dealership? - they show no harness available ..BUT! they had the knock sensor in stock for $258. WTF? just insane.

update- new fuel pump really made a difference in the operation of the motor, at first very rough which tells me that the maybe comp was compensating for low fuel pressure.? Duh moment - when I realized that the throttle body had some funk - some maf cleaner and a clean rag pulled out some nasty blackness.. at which point I realized that the p1447 charcoal burst most likely had spewed at least some dust beyond the soloniod and sent pure black carbon into my intake. (seafoam time) - put 1/3 can into the brake booster line, 1/3 in the fuel tank and also 1/3 into the oil. Let it sit around 10 min, go out start it up (started right up!). seemed much more responsive, no stalling or hesitation, but now the real test - 10 min later - started on the first crank. 30 min later - 1st crank. (like she should) Im doing some prayer, and voodoo ritual karma dance but....- I think it's fixed!!! WOOT.

new fuel pump... ran real rough right after intall...now shes running better- put some injector cleaner in, but the hot start was still an issue last night, we'll see how today goes.. Really want to take her to the hills this weekend!!

Update - yep forked out the 240$ for a new distributor assembly- figured I get the coil, the cps, all in one shot. - tried the coolant temp sensor first 28$, no luck. install wasn't too bad, but still hard starting! (A little squirt of starting fluid into the intake and she starts). ?? somehow not enough fuel at startup? ..but only when engine is warm. and when its running it runs well, doesn't stumble or hesitate when you give it gas. this really has me stymied now. ...I really am still coming back to the EVAP canister purge..(maybe stuck open or closed?!) but still don't know if that could cause this. ...also, I do hear the hum of the fuel pump, but could it get crappy as it gets hot? -also I would imagine I would see some sort of performance issue or hesitation if the pump was weak.

Temp seems fine while shes going down the road...if its overheated I havent noticed it- temp guage has always been right down the middle

..considering a new distributor...

Hi QB thanks, yep did the cap and rotor, (not the coil, if I do that dont I have to replace the whole distributor?) did new plugs and wires, new fuel filter, new air filter. the odd thing is, that when it has been sitting for awhile it will start right up, and runs great! ....just dont turn it off and go into the store. ...it really does seem to be a fuel issue, either too much or not enough..I saw a thread about cleaning the cam position sensor(s) helping with this problem, Im going to try it as well as a new evap can purge valve tonight.

My '97 Pathy SE will start right up every time when its been sitting for a while. (few hours) Drive it, (runs great!) turn it off, get back in within an hour of driving, and the motor will crank and crank, but no turnover. I do have engine codes, P1447 canister burst code, and P0325 knock sensor. (Took off and shook out the canister, (new one is in the mail), blew out the lines, tested the purge volume control valve under the hood (seems to be ok). I still need to test the canister vent control valve (will replace when the can gets here) It seemed strange to me that either of these could cause my warm starting problem?? Therefore I have thus far replaced - fuel pressure regulator, (also checked fuel injectors for leaking - no leaks), distibutor cap and rotor, plugs, wires, air filter, fuel filter. Still hard starting when warm. Anyone know if the purge control valve or the charcoal problem in general could cause this? ..or a bad knock sensor? -Ive read about fuel pumps bleeding pressure, but would it start right up when cold? Im thinking other possibilities are a bad MAF? (cleaned it, no dice) - Or a bad alternator? - not just cap n rotor? ...Anybody else had experiences like this? Feels a bit like Im throwing money at every part of the girl except where she needs it.

Hello everyone, Im Jeff from Colorado, just bought at auction a '97 Pathfinder SE. She has a few issues, burst evap canister, and a hard starting only when she sits for a few minutes after being driven. -also the clunk from the rear end when shifting. (got the can on order, think the starting issue is a fpr or injector leaking-gonna take the manifold off this weekend and have a look- and top control arms are on the fedex truck today).