jimb

You need a timing light. And follow the instructions in the manual. Or just pay someone to do it. Or could be the timing belt. I don't know. But I'd would check the distributor timing first. A basic tuneup operation. Let us know.

Have you checked the ignition timing? Sounds like the overheating, rattling, and hard cranking could be timing is too far advanced. I would check this, won't cost much if he can't do it himself. It's a basic tuneup procedure.

If you haven't already, checking the codes is not hard, but you have to remove the passenger seat. It's easier than it looks. Good luck! PS, my Pathfinder has not lost power since the "modification", nor are the rpm's limited, so I guess it is not in failsafe. but the problem has been isolated... I guess... I drove it to my cabin (camp trailer) in the mountains yesterday, no sweat. (except that a bear had broken in and trashed the inside, and tore open all the canned food).

I have made progress, at least as to being able to drive the car. I determined that the fuel pump was OK. I read that the vehicle would run in failsafe mode, so I could at least could get to the parts store. I tried to put in into failsafe. I tested the connection to the distributor for the cam position sensor, then clipped the ground wire. It ran fine after that, in even very hot outside temps. I'm not sure if it is in failsafe mode, or just disabling the sensor has made the difference. It runs fine, is NOT limited in rpm's, the only thing that is different is shifting. It will occasionaly stay in 2nd gear way too long, but the trans. has been going bad for months. I understand from this forum that the entire dist. must be replaced in order to replace the sensor. It does have screws that can't be removed. I'll replace it when I can. Jnnydeppluver, it you want to try this (at your own risk), find the connector in the harness leading to the distributor. The connector is right on the front of the engine. Unplug it and clip the black wire on the LEFT (passenger) side of the connector. (you should probly check with your ohmmeter to make sure the black IS the ground wire. Check continuity between that black wire and the engine block) Cut so there enough wire to solder it back together. The wires change color (?) at the connector for some reason, just look at the feed side (left). Make sure the key is off. I can't guarantee anything, but it has temporarily worked for me. It should be fixed properly for emissions sake, I suppose. Good luck. Jim

I sure will. I'm going to try the sensor first, then the fuel pressure. It is a somewhat daunting process. When I first worked on cars, you'd check the igntition points, cap and wires, timing, and float level in the carb. Now it's 100's of feet of hoses and wiring, sensors, and magic boxes. But I'll get it.

I thought that unplugging the o2 sensor might help, but it's not so hot today and took awhile to get hot enough. Sure enough finally started to buck. I am hopeful that installing a new engine temp sensor will help. The problem is temperature related so makes sense to me. But I've been wrong several times..........I have tried letting the fuel pump build pressure, no difference. .I am having trouble understanding the fuel pressure reg. but I'll look at the FSM. Thanks for the help.

I haven't unplugged the O2 sensor yet, but the coolant temp sensor readings are: Cold: spec,is 2.1 to 2.9 ohms, reading is 2.99 Hot: spec.is 0.30 to 0.33, reading is 0.4 Makes sense to me that the greater resistance on the hot end could cause the problem. I'll also try unplugging the 02 sensor as soon as I figger out which it is. Thanks.

Thanks. Is there a way to tell which it is? I can't from the drawing in the manual.

Just found the site, lots of good stuff. Can't find anything similar via search, so I'd appreciate some help. My '95 V6 has run well till this summer, it has 190k on it. It runs fine until it gets warm, then won't accelerate, misses and bucks. When the weather is cooler it takes longer to get to this point. The only code is 55. I tested the coil and resistance was off, but new one didn't help. I've looked for vacuum leaks, and found a couple small hoses were broken, and the hose was off of the fuel pressure reg. behind the intake. No help. It seems to me that it isn't getting fuel, and the problems comes on gradually (like a minute or 2 from a slight miss to undrivable). But it will still idle and run with light throttle pressure. I have cleaned the fuel filter. I haven't checked the fuel pressure. It has also become harder to start, have to use the throttle some to start. (which came on suddenly, it before started quickly in any weather). I like this car, it's the best winter car I've had, and does well off road. Any help would be appreciated. Jim