microfiz

Thanks for the initial feedback, guys. Bax03SE... Unfortunately, I live in California and I am almost certain that the "resonators" (unit past the post-catalytic O2 sensor) also serves as a catalytic unit (it does have the honeycomb ceramic construction inside AND has the CARB embossed on the heat shield). But that's not the one rattling... it's the one you have attached as a picture. And the first half of the ceramic is intact. Remus92, was your stubborn bolt the one on the underside too? And I assume that bending the shield out of the way was relatively easy?

So I own a 2001 LE (3.5 L). Last week, I heard a loud rattle emanating from the driver's side. I took a quick peek and found the second half of the primary cat was loose). Ordered a Cal-approved cat from Rock Auto and proceeded to remove everything yesterday. It looked like I needed to remove the heat shields (two) for the cat to gain access to the exhaust bolts (6). There were also 6 heat shield bolts that I needed to remove, and I got 5 out except for 1 (at the bottom, and presumably more affected by moisture). I think I may have even stripped the head off after spending 3 hours on it. Anyway, this is a multi-tiered question: 1) since the car is not throwing codes, the single row of ceramic seems to be doing an adequate job scrubbing the exhaust. Should I just forget about replacing since the car is running good? With all the loose pieces removed, she's been quiet as can be. 2) is there another way I can gain more access to that bottom exhaust bolt so I can use other tools OR even grind it out? Can putting a jack on the engine help? 3) how about removing the manifold outright (driver's side)? Is that hard? Thanks any advice in advance. =)

So I own a 2001 LE (3.5 L). Last week, I heard a loud rattle emanating from the driver's side. I took a quick peek and found the second half of the primary cat was loose). Ordered a Cal-approved cat from Rock Auto and proceeded to remove everything yesterday. It looked like I needed to remove the heat shields (two) for the cat to gain access to the exhaust bolts (6). There were also 6 heat shield bolts that I needed to remove, and I got 5 out except for 1 (at the bottom, and presumably more affected by moisture). I think I may have even stripped the head off after spending 3 hours on it. Anyway, this is a multi-tiered question: 1) since the car is not throwing codes, the single row of ceramic seems to be doing an adequate job scrubbing the exhaust. Should I just forget about replacing since the car is running good? 2) is there another way I can gain more access to that bottom exhaust bolt so I can use other tools OR even grind it out? Can putting a jack on the engine help? 3) how about removing the manifold outright (driver's side)? Is that hard? Thanks any advice in advance. =)

I obviously don't know much about this series Pathfinder, but did it ever have a 3rd row option?

Thanks for the info. Are you doing a write-up of your conversion soon? Can you share info on your eBay purchase too?

Here's the OEM light at low beam: With the $24 light bar: Periphery with OEM light: Periphery with LED: I think illuminating the periphery and increasing contrast is where the most benefit is with the LED light bar.

Awesome, man! How is the light quality? And where did you get that grill?

I just recently installed a light bar on my truck and was amazed at the added brightness and lack of light cut-off that the bar produced (compared to my halogen head lights). I don't drive with them on (I only plan to when it's absolutely necessary) because I think it may be too bright. On the other hand, I love the performance and would like my stock headlights to create the same level of illumination. I wonder if these would work (see link)... I understand that fitment could be an issue, but I'm more concerned about blinding people with it. Anyone tried these yet? http://www.ebay.com/itm/2-PC-4-x-6-15-LED-CLEAR-LIGHT-BEAM-HEADLIGHT-HEAD-LAMPS-24V-45W-2700LM-P7-/191999445632?fits=Year%3A1993|Make%3ANissan|Model%3APathfinder&hash=item2cb40f0a80:g:WX4AAOSw-CpYBVJ1&vxp=mtr

Haha! Thanks again Patrick. Man, I owe you at least a half dozen rounds. Let me know if you're in the area and we can talk shop. Yep, she's still running strong (her previous owner called her Helga)... currently at 261K and with new shoes ($50 wheels I got from CL and spray painted black and brand new Chinese-brand tires for $430 out the door) and ridiculously bright LED light bar. Really digging how she looks right now. Read your write-up on the disc conversion... you sure know how to pick your projects! =P

Here's how the old girl looks like now after a year:

It's been over a year since I did this and I forgot to close the loop (in case someone else needs to do this). Patrick (hawairish) was absolutely instrumental to my success. I even managed to meet the legendary man face to face. =) Anyway, I'll be posting our messages here since his instructions were so detailed and on point. Here's the continuation of this story: Me: So I was at the same junkyard yesterday (the same one I was checking out last Saturday) to pick up seats for another car. After getting the seats and loading them up in my car, I figured I'll take another look to see if I just missed the "right" Pathfinder. Well, sure enough... I did. I spotted a dark blue Pathfinder (200K on the odometer) with manual transmission, HG43 diff and disc (I guess all manuals come in this config). I wasn't planning on a rear axle pull so I didn't have the right tools, but with perseverence and stubborness, I was able to rip it out in a few hours! Now with this thing out, I am planning to clean it and then install this coming weekend. Do you have recommendations on what I can prep for before installing this unit? My clutch is going out soon... I wonder if I could include this job if it doesn't take too much of my time? So can I use my front differential to move my car into my garage so I can service it? Or is it a bad idea? Also, after reading posts on the forum, it looks like replacing the third member might even be easier than replacing the entire rear? I just feel like removing the drive shafts could become a bigger headache. Aren't there special tools required (I'll have to go back to my Hayes manual)? Patrick: Awesome, glad you found what you needed. Some answers/notes: Moving the truck with the front diff will be fine. Pull the rear driveshaft out first...it'll slip right out of the transmission without tools. Since you have manual hubs, you may need to rock the truck while in park to hear them click after engaging them, then shift to 4H and creep in. In my opinion, it's much easier to just replace the 3rd member...you'll still need to at least jack up the axle and pull the tires, but that's far easier than working the axle off completely. You should plan on taking apart the donor axle anyway to check the internals for any issues, and since you'll have it apart, it'll be ready for transplanting (and it's a good way to do a dry-run of the process). If you have the means (a dial indicator and base), you can also confirm that the diff is still in spec and doesn't need any adjustments. But once you've got it out, you'll want to inspect the ring and pinion for chips or odd wear patterns (you can check just by giving it some spins). No special tools at all...wrenches and sockets, and maybe a rubber mallet or dead-blow or small pry bar to convince the axle shafts to come out a little. I only used an impact to save time threading all the nuts that hold the diff to the axle, but not for tightening anything, just a torque wrench. There are 4 nuts on the axle tube behind the brakes...remove those, and the axle shaft is basically ready to come out after loosening/disconnecting any brake lines or cables. You'll need the shafts out at least 6" to clear the diff carrier...I found it easiest to just disconnect the hydraulic brake line (I was able to leave the e-brakes connected) and bleed things afterwards. Though...I don't know the exact setup on a WD21, since I've only worked on R50s, but it should be very similar. If you plan to replace seals, then you need to disconnect the brakes and any sensor lines (not sure if it has ABS or not). Seals are cheap and pretty easy to replace. Since you have the axle, makes it easy to give it a practice run. If you need some reference pics or more detailed instructions, let me know...I have an axle housing and several diffs in my garage and can show you exactly what you're looking for. For other prep, it's kind of an on-the-fly process. If you trust your seals, at least give them an eye-ball. But they are cheap enough to warrant replacing. The carrier gasket (installs between the 3rd member and housing) should be replaced...sometimes it'll come out in one piece and need minimal scraping on the axle housing, other times, not so much. You'll need the mating surfaces on both diff and housing to be as clean (smooth) as possible. I just take a razor blade and gently scrape. You can get replacements from Rock Auto for cheap. If that axle has an orange sticker on the rear of the axle housing, it'll have the LSD (a good find). You'll need 3L of diff fluid. If it has the LSD, be sure the oil you get has an LSD additive (or you can add separately). As for the clutch, that's a whole other beast. The only advantage you have going into that is that the rear driveshaft will be off, but that's really it...and it's easy to remove otherwise. Changing the clutch will be far more time consuming than change the diff. Changing the diff will probably only take 2-3 hours, wheels up to wheels down. While the driveshaft is off, wouldn't hurt to give the u-joints some pivots to see if it moves smoothly. The Haynes manual might be pretty generic for the process, but you may have some better references here: http://www.nicoclub....FSM/Pathfinder/. Manuals for a 92-95 will be fine for you. Me: Again, thanks for the comprehensive help, Patrick. I've been mulling over what to do on the truck based on your recommendation. Just some questions: You should plan on taking apart the donor axle anyway to check the internals for any issues, and since you'll have it apart, it'll be ready for transplanting (and it's a good way to do a dry-run of the process).I was actually thinking that if I pull the donor axles apart that I transfer the wheel axles as well to assure that the axle splines are intact. I don't know if mine got damaged in the process of failure. Is that a good idea, or an easy one at least? If you have the means (a dial indicator and base), you can also confirm that the diff is still in spec and doesn't need any adjustments. But once you've got it out, you'll want to inspect the ring and pinion for chips or odd wear patterns (you can check just by giving it some spins).I don't have a dial indicator... just a caliper. What exactly am I measuring for in the differential? Flatness? For other prep, it's kind of an on-the-fly process. If you trust your seals, at least give them an eye-ball. But they are cheap enough to warrant replacing. The carrier gasket (installs between the 3rd member and housing) should be replaced...sometimes it'll come out in one piece and need minimal scraping on the axle housing, other times, not so much. You'll need the mating surfaces on both diff and housing to be as clean (smooth) as possible. I just take a razor blade and gently scrape. You can get replacements from Rock Auto for cheap.Can I use the liquid gasket maker in place of a paper gasket? I may not have time to get one (I can always try a stealership). Again, I can't thank you enough. The work itself doesn't seem to complicated, but it is labor-intensive. =) Patrick: No sweat man, glad to help. So the best part about having a donor axle is that it definitely doesn't hurt to upgrade or swap over parts, and everything should be a perfect fit. Really the only things that should be kept together are pretty much everything on the 3rd member. I'd expect your axle shafts to be fine (you'll know pretty quickly when you try to slide them out), but yes, if you suspect any issues, you can swap them easily. Swapping over the brakes should be pretty simple, too. A dial indicator allows you to check two things, actually, and one is pretty critical to differentials: backlash. There needs to be a precise amount of play between the pinion and ring gear...not too small that it causes the gears to bind, and not to big that it allows the gears to slop and chip. It's not something you can generally feel out (without experience...but even then, those guys always measure). It's really only critical when you start taking apart the carrier, which you won't need to do. But, usually for peace of mind, it's just one way to check that the replacement is in spec. The other use is to check gear run-out, where you're making sure the ring gear isn't warped and that the carrier is rotating 90° to the pinion. But again, in your case, it's just a way to confirm that the donor is in still in spec (which it likely is). You can use a liquid sealer, just check on cure times before filling the diff with gear oil. The other thing is that the angles on the axle shafts take into account the thickness of the paper gasket (it's actually a metal gasket with paper surfaces). You'll be able to get the axles to slide into the carrier with a liquid gasket, though, so it's not a big concern, but something to think about. One other thought...removing the 3rd member from the axle. Since you've got the donor axle off, you can practice this, but you'll need to remove the 3rd member at a particular angle, otherwise it wedges against the studs. Pretty easy to remove while not under the truck, but it's definitely a challenge when you're lying on your back. I was able to get it off and back on by myself, but it's some work. If you can get a 2nd set of hands, and maybe even a floor jack, you're much better off. It's a very heavy and awkward piece. Heads up. These are the bolts that hold the axle shaft to the housing. Just remove the 4 nuts and give the backing plate a couple light taps from a mallet. You only need to pull it out a few inches. At this point, you could slide the axle completely out if the brakes are disconnected. But as you can see, that's about all you need to clear the carrier for removal. If you have any issues pulling the 3rd, try pulling the axle out a little further (ask me how I know!) The brown ring is the gasket. It should come out in (mostly) one piece. If any of the 11 studs are loose, you can just thread them back into the housing...or replace them using studs from the donor. Another shot of the bolts that hold the axle shaft to the housing. Yours will look a little different because of the brake backing plate. If you look inside past the gear looking things, you'll see some waxy looking stuff...that's the outer grease seal. Try to leave the grease intact if you can, but it might come out in chunks, or may stick to the axle housing, as shown... That white/yellow ring is the inner seal...the black rubber seal is what you want to check for rips and consider replacing. Resting the axle on the seal isn't terrible, but obviously you don't want to leave it like this too long. The removed 3rd member looks similar to this. You'll need to clean up the mating surface around the diff, of course. This is a limited slip, but the open diff might look pretty similar. Nissan had a couple open diff styles. If you look above those two gold-ish looking teeth, that's where that thrust spacer that MY1PATH mentioned would be (it's not on this one). Since you've got the same donor axle, whether it's there or not, it'll fit your axle. You also want to inspect the front and back of the teeth on the ring gear. You're looking for a crescent-like shape in the center of each tooth, and no chips on any teeth. Also look further down at the pinion's teeth, too. If it's an open diff (it'll look like that only a bit flatter), you can turn some of the inner (spider) gears to check their condition, too. Again, looking for chips, cracks, or other signs of odd wear. If you want to confirm the gear ratio without counting teeth, it'll be stamped on the side of the ring gear as XX:YY (that "32" painted below is something else). Here's what the newer styles of open diffs look like, but they may have been used on older gens too: Piece of cake, right?? Me: Wow.... I think it took me at least a couple of hours just to harvest the donor diff (and I had air tools!). Started at 2 and didn't finish until 10 (that's with some breaks, dinner, and a run to the parts store for brake fluid... I ended up removing the drive shafts completely). Anyway, it was successful! I followed your instructions to the tee and everything went smooth. I didn't even need to use any bro points to get a second set of hands. LOL! But the damaged diff was totally toast. Actually, I had a hard time moving the truck to my garage due to the binding parts. I'm glad it didn't damage the carrier. Well that's it, man... I really owe you a lot. Your instructions were golden. Thanks again, Patrick. Here's a picture of the culprit. http://www.pinkbike....photo/12672137/

Thanks. I sent you a PM, Hawaiirish. When you say third member, do you mean just the pumpkin portion of the rear axle (the gear assembly)? That is actually the damaged part. I think it started with catastrophic bearing failure which lead to pinion destruction (the pinion yolk blew off the rear diff and is now attached to the propeller drive shaft). Is a third member replacement easier? I looked online and it looks like I just need to pull the axle shafts slightly to remove it. Not familiar with this procedure (but if given guidance, I should be able to do it). I also have air tools to make the job easier. Thanks! Ron

Hi Guys, My rear differential blew and I've been scouring the JY for a replacement. I found a suitable differential from a 1996 Pathfinder (I have a 1992 5-sp 4X4 with HG-43 diff). The problem is that it's drum (and I've noticed that practically all A/T transmissioned Pathys have drums and 4.6 ratios expect this one car). So is it swappable? If I want to keep the disc brakes, would it be possible? I read that the spline to the hubs have to match but I can't find any info to confirm? I don't mind switching to drum either if it's easier. Appreciate your feedback.

Well, my rear diff seized up and now I'm thinking of replacing it. How involved is it? Planning to buy a junkyard replacement btw. Is it easier to just replace the differential or the entire rear axle? Thanks in advance.

Just to close the loop, I fixed the problem. I ohmed out the six injectors though this harness diagram (from a thread here): http://s321.photobucket.com/user/lck403/media/plugs.jpg.html Note: the common pin is not the one highlighted on the picture... I think it's on the opposite end... but just move the terminal until you get continuity. Injector #4 read open so I swapped it out with an injector from the junkyard. It was marked black when mine was blue... didn't have a choice so I ignored the forum warnings and installed it. Codes are gone, it idles and runs great now. Thanks to this forum... =)

Mine worked too. I followed instructions on how to diagnose the 6 injectors through the harness and isolated injector # 4. She's all good now.

Did you ever find out the problem? I have the same issue.

Hi, new to the forum and figured I could use your experience and help. I've owned my V6-SE Pathfinder for over a year now and put 30,000 commute miles on it (it now has 230,000 miles). It's been very reliable and I am happy with it so far. However, my car engine light just went on a couple of days ago and immediately the car idled rougher. The diagnostic mode showed code 51 (ignition circuit) and after googling that problem, I went ahead and did the following: 1) ohmed out the injectors- I was getting more like 12-13 ohms instead of 11-12 when cold, but that could be due to my cheap multimeter 2) replaced one of the corroded connectors 3) swapped out one injector with questionable terminals (partially broken) 4) new fuel filter 5) sanded ground terminals (the ones attached to the intake plenum) However, the fault code is still there and the engine idles a little rougher than it did before the code. I have not checked the fuel pressure yet. Could a worn our fuel pump cause this code? Bad fuel pressure regulator? Electrical? Your ideas are welcome.