SMOKEYR50

Yep fair call. I guess with anything that relies on air you need to make sure your install is spot on. I like the adjustability, but if your weight is constant then I would just go for an HD spring. That being said, I carry a fair bit of weight. Probably 300lb over the rear axle. Sub, steel cargo cage, 85L dual fuel tank.

Thanks Rick. Bit of a side story....I got the ARB colour coded recently. Got a brand new bar through insurance as my previous bar got the crush can collapsed when I rear-ended a chick who decided to 'brake-check' me. Needless to say, the ARB made light work of her hatchback and caved the whole rear end in.....serves her right. Not a scratch on the bar, but because there was a 5mm deflection in the crush can on the LHS (designed to absorb impact) they replaced the whole bar as I guess they recognise the crush can as being integral to the airbag system. I had a dash-cam installed, which saved me a lot of hassle as I was able to demonstrate with video evidence that I was 100% not at fault and I'm pretty sure she got in a fair bit of trouble as a result. It was testament to the strength and engineering of the ARB bars. I am convinced they're worth the money.

Airbags. http://www.pcoa.org.au/forum/viewtopic.php?f=19&t=2973 Will suit you now, in the future and for every weight in between. I can run mine with 5psi and it sits at standard spring height. Air up to 25psi and it goes up an inch.

Tyres are ON! Poke a but on the rear, flush on the front - looks a lot tougher! Put a winch on too.

Sent you a PM Qx4204 - but pretty sure their extended struts are just to match their 40mm lift springs. Best bet would be to send them an email and ask them for a measurment of the strut from base to top nut when extended. Compare to AC. That'll give you the final word!

Hi guys, are KR Fabrications still in business? I tried shooting them an email from their contact info on the website, that was a couple of weeks ago - no answer. Anyone know if they're still doing the SFD kits??

I think some Japanese versions came with electric hubs, but OEM d22 navara manual locking hubs fit on r50s.....not sure what a navara is called in the US. Navara?

Don't you have 245/75/16s? On stock tri-stars?? That's not really the same setup.....I'm asking about 265/75/16s on aftermarket wheels with a much lower offset.....or have I missed something?

'Hellaflush'?? Gosh I hate that term..... Haha What's your setup specifically, deltaR50?? I'm going to pull the trigger on the tyres pretty soon, just waiting on my wheel nuts to arrive from the UK so I can assemble the wheels and seal them up.

'Precise'ly...... I'm currently chasing a knock at the moment. I have been trying all these methods, but ironically I think it's the U-joints in the steering column, everything else is tight as a drum. Frustrating.

Yep - don't convince yourself that it'll be a cheap and easy fix. These IFS setups have so many moving parts, but it only takes one worn part to introduce a clunk. Best way to diagnose is to get on your back under the truck, look for perished rubber bushes and have someone swing on the steering wheel like a rabid monkey - try and locate the source of the clunk - and replace that part first. If pain persists, repeat process, ad nauseam.

Looks nice! You could stiffen up the rears with some airbags. Very cheap, super easy to install yourself and great for if you have to carry loads or tow - just pump them up to level the car again. Is the swaying at speed? ?If so, the swaying could be your rear trailing arm bushes - the lift might have finished them off. Pretty common on our rigs.

Thanks Rick, that's pretty helpful actually. Your tyre width is the same, and the backspacing close....but slightly more inboard than a 3.5". Safe to say if yours were line all then mine will be slightly out. But not so bad that I will be cop bait.......hmmm

New pads might cause the caliper rub as the pads are thicker, making the caliper slide further out in the piston. You're right in saying the caliper is fixed, on the snide. But a slide type caliper is two pieces and the outer half of the caliper moves in out as it grabs/releases the rotor. As the pads wear, the caliper self adjusts. It's is why you can often just slide a caliper with old pads straight off the disc, but to get them back over the disc with new pads you have to bleed a bit of fluid out. So with his new pads, the caliper was wider, possibly putting it in contact with the wheel. It's often only a mater of millimetres with these things!

And similarly, this guy running a 16x8 (-20) says they only protrude 8mm, but his offsets sit the wheel a further 20mm out than mine...... http://pcoa.org.au/forum/viewtopic.php?f=19&t=5784 Very much confusion.